Michelin 3 stars, New York Times 4 stars, La Liste joint #1 Restaurant in the World, San Pellegrino World’s Best 50 Restaurant List……….etc, etc.
Since its opening over 3 decades ago, continuous culinary accolades and awards had been pouring in for this New York gastronomic temple. As such, with such stellar credentials, to most of the gourmands in our party, a meal at this iconic institution has become the most anticipated foodie event of the year, if not in their young life?!
For lunch, two dining options were offered. First, a full blown USD300+, 8 course chef tasting menu that the whole table has to participate in. Alternatively, a protracted, reduced 3 course table d’hote made up the other option. Though it would be enticing to savor so many of Chef Ripert’s creations all at once, however, to Rosy, having an 8 course tasting menu so early in the day was too much of a daunting task. Consequently, the entire party settled for the reduced course alternative.
Our selected luncheon option followed a formidable and challenging format. For the first course, patrons were requested to pick a single dish from a list of nearly 20 imaginative, mouth watering and unique, ‘almost raw or barely touched‘, seafood creations. For the main course, 8 ‘lightly cooked’ seafood and fish masterpieces were offered. Man! So many selections to choose from!..talk about information overload and tough decisions making!..Maybe a nice task for ChatGPT?! Ha!
Our fun yet frustrating evaluation and selective process yielded the following first, main and dessert course options:
AMUSE BOUCHE:
- Salmon Rillette; Sourdough Bread Crisp.
BREAD SERVICE:
- 4 Bread Samples ( Brioche, Baguette, Walnut & Raisins……plus
Normandy Butter )
FIRST COURSE:
- Shellfish Medley
Uni, Razor Clams, Langoustine, Mirugai, Shrimp Custard, Smoked
Pork Dashi Broth. - Bacalao
Warm Bacalao Escabeche under a cloud of Saffron Brandade
MAIN COURSE
- Dover Sole
Pan roasted Dover Sole, Green Olives, Toasted Almonds, Aged
Sherry Wine Emulsion. - Fluke
Pan seared Fluke, Twice Baked Mini Potatoes, Urchin-
Bouillabaisse Emulsion - Hiramasa
Grilled Hiramasa, Roasted Maitake Mushrooms, Bone Marrow -
Red Wine Bordelaise
DESSERT
- Baba Au Whiskey - Purple Sweet Potato ‘Baba’, Caramelized
Pecan, Smoked Okinawa Sugar Ice Cream - Citrus ‘Madeleine’ - Vanilla Genoise Sponge, Lemon Mousseline,
Berry Medley - Peruvian Dark Chocolate - Warm Peruvian Chocolate Tart, Tahitian
Vanilla Ice Cream - Corn - Sweet Corn Mille-Feuille, Salted Caramel Sauce
- Sorbet - Poire William
So! What is the overall verdict? Was the quality of the food superb and distinctive enough to exude the degree of greatness that commensurates with a Michelin 3* plus other preeminent ratings and accolades that were bestowed upon it?
For this, one has to evaluate and critique from the viewpoint of Chef Eric Ripert’s philosophy towards treating and preparing fish and seafood. In short, Chef Ripert loves to adopt a ‘simple’ approach to cooking fish, treating the natural ingredients with respect and letting the characteristic shine on its own. Based on this, ingredients used in each and every one of our dishes were prepared and executed flawlessly and with loving care by the talented kitchen. So, the answer is a resounding ‘Yes’!
Accompanying sauces or seasoning, where necessary, were well-balanced and care was taken not to overpower the main ingredients……. Though in some cases, may be a touch too conservative and overly cautious? These were reflected by the ‘too delicate‘ taste profile of the Seafood Medley and the underwhelming, ‘taste lacking’ Bordelaise sauce accompaniment for the Hiramasa dish. On the other hand, the Dover Sole and the Fluke were simply amazing, totally worthy as Michelin 3* offerings. I have lived and worked in Britain and France for over a decade and have had my fair share of well executed Dover Soles. However, this Le Bernardin’s rendition was heads and shoulders above the rest, both in taste, degree of doneness and texture……the best and tastiest ( western style preparation ) Dover Sole I have come across.
In this scenario, the pros canceled the cons resulting in a no-decision!
Dessert courses were one of the best and spectacular collections I have come across ( the other, Robuchon au Dome in Macau ).
Overall atmosphere in my opinion was a bit stuffy and pretentious. Front-of-house a touch dim and under-lite.
Service, though efficient, lacked smile and enthusiasm.
So, in conclusion, is Le Bernardin worthy of its Michelin 3* status? The answer is a reluctant Yes……more like 70% three stars and 30% two stars. As for the #1 rating on La Liste?! This I beg to differ, noting quite a few Michelin establishments I have frequented in Europe and the Orient ( especially Japan and Hong Kong ) offered better overall dining experiences.
