[Withington, Manchester] Sanskruti

They’ve changed the menu since we were last here (although not the online version). It’s shorter and has a number of dishes labelled as “healthy” – although I have no idea what they may mean by that. But it’s all vegetarian (or vegan) And it’s even better than last time.

Bhel was the usual concoction of puffed rice, potato, onion and chutneys. There’s a kick from chilli that could have been upped a tad. Samosa chaat was everything you might have wanted – chopped samosa with still crisp pastry, chickpeas, potato, onion and really well rounded spicing.

For mains, malai kofta brought two large balls of potato and spinach in a smooth cashew nut and tomato sauce. The koftas were quite solid affairs which was good as it provided a little texture. Jaipuri vegetables are, apparently, a classic of Rajasthan cooking. Here, it’s a light and fresh dish using a mix of broccoli, green beans, peas, onion in a very clingy sauce – none of the overly wet dishes that you get in the high street curry house.

Carbs were excellent – rotli (which I think is the Gujarati version of a chapatti) and plain boiled rice. They did the job.

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“Food is a pretty good prism through which to view humanity.”

― Jonathan Gold