(Wilmslow, Cheshire] Wood, Fire, Smoke

Pizza lunch. It’s pretty much all they do. And they’ve an open kitchen and a wood fired pizza oven to do it in. The chef tells me that the oven usually operates to 450 but can be pushed to 500 when they are busy. It means the work of cooking is a matter of seconds. And it’s a perfect bit of pizza cookery – a bit of char round the edge and slightly underbaked in the middle – just as you expect from a Naples style pizza.

A classic for one of us – rich tomato sauce, fior de latte and toppings of anchovies, olives, capers and a scattering of basil leaves. For the other, no tomato sauce just cheese, wild boar ragu, mixed mushrooms, Parmesan and basil. Both absolutely cracking examples of the pizza maker’s craft.

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