Weekend trip to DC

Spring Onion had a 4-day MLK weekend so we decided to head to DC. I haven’t visited since I was in my late teens so I was really excited. We may not have had the best eating trip but we had a great time — unseasonably warm weather, lots of fun museum-going, few crowds (compared with NYC), and an awesome townhouse to stay.

Thursday
Left Boston on an evening flight into DCA. We stopped by an organic grocer in our neighborhood (Eastern Market) and grabbed some snacks and beer.

Friday
Started the day with quite decent bagels from Bullfrog Bagels which was in our neighborhood. These were much better than the ones that we had in NYC last month. We all appreciated that these were not Godzilla-sized. We’d prefer a bit more chew, though. Plain all the way for SO; chive cream cheese, tomato, avocado, lettuce for me; house smoked salmon, capers, red onion for B. We both had everything bagels and we both noted the low-adherence of the seeds, which is always sad.

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Unfortunate lunch choice was made out of hangry desperation somewhat proximal to the Mall and in the direction of our next destination (the Spy Museum), a place called Tonic which was busy with professional locals, both young and older, which we thought might be a good sign. It wasn’t. Hello, this is 1987 calling, I’d like my seared crusted tuna over greens and taco salad to come home. At least they were innocuous. SO’s mac and cheese bento box was probably the best thing on the table. Service was laughably indifferent.

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Dinner was spent at home after doing a TJ’s run.

Saturday
Breakfast was at home. Lunch was near Ford’s Theater at Pi Pizzeria, a St. Louis import. The crust, to me, was dreadful (it had a weird texture and no flavor to speak of). Toppings were decent, though, and plentiful (cherry peppers, mushrooms, and vegan sausage). SO loved his cheese pizza and that’s the most important thing. Friendly service.

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Dinner was in our neighborhood at Kaiju Ramen. Started with delicious Brussels sprouts, which were topped with a showering of Parmesan that put it over the top, in a good way. We can never resist Brussels when we see them on a menu. The kitchen kindly steamed dumplings (rather than pan-frying) and put together a bowl of plain but rich pork/chicken broth with noodles for SO (he loved both). Creamy unctuous umami-ful veggie ramen for me, topped with charred veggies. B had a ramen based on the same broth as SO’s bowl. Those bowls went down quite easily. B had a delightful yuzu-based beer. We both had doubts about it, as neither of us likes sour beers but this was refreshing. I had a Red Kimono cocktail. Awesome service. Weird lighting = bad food photos. And maybe that’s the point! :wink:

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Sunday
B went back to Bullfrog for a bacon, egg, and cheese on everything, which he loved and devoured. SO and I ate something for breakfast.

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Lunch was on the Wharf, at Hank’s Oyster Bar. We didn’t have high hopes for this place, but it turned out to be fine. Very busy place with a big brunch crowd. I wanted crabcakes so I got the sandwich and it was much better than anything we get in Boston… Lots of crab, very little filler that I could detect. I think it was deep-fried rather than pan-fried, although I’m not sure. B has Baltimore roots so he didn’t get the crabcake and got a fried chicken sandwich instead. Once he took a bite of mine, he regretted his choice although he said his sandwich was good. SO had a hot dog from Shake Shack (which ironically stopped serving shakes because they were so busy and understaffed; every time we get food for SO at any Shake Shack, I feel bad for the staff - they are always swamped). Got him a $$ shake from Ben and Jerry’s next door.

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Dinner was at home - we had pasta leftovers from Friday night.

Monday
B and SO both got bagels again, plain and BEC. I ate Kaiju leftovers. A happy start to our last day.

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We checked out and went over to the Renwick Gallery, which we all loved. There’s not much else to do over there, both in terms of sites or food, but we landed at the Bottom Line, a scruffy out of the way bar that serves food. It reminded us of unpretentious places near the State House in Boston, where are you can imagine legislators, rubbing elbows with folks out drinking, tourists, etc, making deals or what-have-you. Really friendly, barkeep and staff. Simple food but it did the trick. Tuna steak sandwich, bowl of chili, cheese quesadilla.

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One last non-food note, after the Renwick we wanted to walk up to the White House so that SO could take a look but everything was closed around the perimeter. Disappointed we walked around a little aimlessly, to kill some time before lunch. And guess who happened to drive by just as we were crossing the White House entrance?

As a 2.5-year old, SO met Barack and Michelle. And now at age 8, he’s waved to Joe. He was very excited to return to school today to tell his classmates. :smile:

And that’s a wrap. We are definitely coming back to DC. Off-season, for sure.

Edited to add:

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Thanks for the rundown. Here are my notes:

Bullfrog Bagels… nothing remarkable.

Tonic… only if you have to, and no you don’t really have to.

Pi Pizzeria… the Berkeley, a thick crust pizza with zucchini, kalamata olives, mushroom, red pepper and onion, is glorious. One of my faves. Have not tried the thin crust at all and now I am glad I haven’t. Their kale salad is excellent.

Kaiju… they have quite a few different ramens, I liked their black miso ramen, but spicy tonkotsu was dreadful.

Bottom Line… never been. Hard to believe that place is still open.

Hank’s Oyster Bar… well respected, but ultimately a bit boring.

Here would have been my substitutions:

Chiko instead of Kaiju. Counter service mix of hipster (but excellent) Chinese or Korean bowls.

Pi, you got the wrong pizza.

Instead of Tonic and Bottom Line, any of the choices below:

Beefsteak. Counter service Jose Andres place featuring beefsteak tomato sandwiches. Also beet sandwich if available.

Inside Western Market (a kind of food court): Pickle Pie at Tigerella, Domino, choclo. or raina papeada arepas from Arepa Zone.

Hummus bowls at Little Sesame.

Brisket sandwich ordered plain at Pitmasters bbq.

If you want a great shake that slays Shake Shack, then get the toasted marshmallow shake at Good Stuff Eatery. In fact, everything there is way better than Shake Shack.

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@Steve Chiko is definitely on our list. We walked by on our first night and I looked it up. Not your mama’s Chinese-Korean joint (I’m Korean).

B wanted to get the deep dish at Pi but we had to get a half-pizza due to our Spring Onion (he didn’t want to try the deep dish). And we didn’t want to cart around leftover pizza with us (we never leave food at restaurants). I had read about the pickle pizza here on HO. Just wasn’t in our orbit this time around.

As for the Bottom Line…while we’re not barflies, we do love an adult beverage served up by staff who like good conversation in an old school environment (I’ll stop short of saying that it’s a dive bar, which it’s not because the term has negative connotations for most people). And that’s what we encountered there. It’s a dying breed in Boston. And SO just ignores us and goes with the flow.

I am taking notes for the next time. Thank you for chiming in!

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My last visit to the States was 4 beautiful days in DC in October 2019.

A few places I visited have closed or were mediocre.

These are a few places I would seek out again:
(Edit : Darn it, Espita has permanently closed. Espita, where I tried my first Ttlayuda https://espitadc.com/) I guess I will try https://lasgemelasdc.com/ next visit, hopefully.

Seylou

Succotash- this feels like a corporately owned restaurant, because it is, but I really enjoyed my meal, and the atmosphere. It is all little touristy. Locals probably avoid it. I would go back.

I had a cocktail at the top of the Watergate Hotel after seeing Ballet X perform at the Kennedy Center. I would do that again, too.

Enjoyed my fried chicken and a donut at Astros. https://astrodoughnuts.com/

Compass Rose was a restaurant my friend had offered as an option, but we decided on Espita. https://www.compassrosedc.com/

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Seylou Bakery is unique and one of the great bakeries anywhere. My favorite baguette. All savory pastries are top notch. They specialize in using whole African grains. Their breads turn out both dark and moist. Eye opening.

Succotash is headed by highly respected chef, Edward Lee. I haven’t been, but no reason for locals to avoid it.

Astro has excellent fried chicken.

Compass Rose makes a great khachapuri. Other items are mixed. Pre-pandemic this place featured very loud music with many people standing up and drinking/eating for lack of seating. Not necessarily a bad thing… if seeking out a hopping scene. I do not know if it’s still like that.

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Forgot to mention that SO got BIG scoops of Jeni’s ice cream post-Kaiju. Salted caramel and darkest chocolate.

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Wow, great report despite the food disappointments. I’m always so happy to hear about SO’s adventures along with those of his parents.

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Edward Lee has an interesting history…his cookbook Smoke and Pickles has some recipes intriguing to me. Raised in Brooklyn by Korean immigrants, migrated to Louisville, Kentucky. Newer book Buttermilk Graffiti also very interesting. I haven’t seen any of his TV shows.

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Fun report, sounds like a very fun weekend! Thanks for taking the time to write it up.

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On your next trip to DC, if you stay on Capitol Hill again, you should get a G-man sub at Mangialardo’s, the favorite of every police officer and firefighter in the City, and the best Italian sub in the area. High end would be Rose’s Luxury on Barracks Row, which has a Michelin star. And for a bar, the Tune Inn is an experience.
I disagree with Steve on the pickle pizza at Tigerella because it is a sweet thick crust pizza, but then tastes differ. And the brisket (and everything else) at Pitmasters BBQ is, in my own view, pretty appalling. Your very best bet for barbecue in DC is the Union Market (an interesting place on its own) outpost of 2fifty Texas, which gets its meat from the Riverdale Park home of that restaurant.
If you stay elsewhere, let us know

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Yep, John and I don’t agree. it’s true. Mangialardo is nothing special and the food at the Tune Inn is at the very bottom of the barrel, no kidding. I am familiar with Pitmaster’s brisket sandwich at Wagshal’s deli, and it is magnificent, though I have not been to the DC location and I have not had any other items at Pitmasters…

BTW, the crust of the pickle pie is not sweet, but the topping of vegetables is similar in flavor to bread n’ butter pickles, which I don’t normally care for, but in this case the pickled vegetables are great. YMMV.

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@johntannerbbq & @Steve , where would you recommend for crabcakes or crabcake bennies in DC?

My crabcake benny in Oct 2019 was maybe a 7/10. Could look up the resto- I won’t bother- it would be more of a tourist trap because it was close to several museums and it was full of tourists or visitors, when I was there, as one would expect, and it was very busy for a weekend brunch.

Not a recent rec, but I really like the broiled (not fried) crabcake at Oohhs and Aahhs, a true dive at 10th and U Sts. Although you can’t tell from peeking in, there is a set of stairs in the back that leads to an upstairswith tables and chairs. The lemon pepper wings are probably the best item. Despite it being a dive, not a cheap crabcake.

The breakfast/lunch grill at Eastern Market has the best cheap crabcake around, but be warned it is very popular and the lines can be serious. Eastern Market is a historic indoors produce market that is enormously popular on weekends, with additional vendors outside in nice weather.

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I saw that place and did an immediate u-turn (or in Boston-speak, I banged a u-ee) away from it. SO turns his nose up at Michelin stars. :laughing:

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digga. Ha! It figures, and very age-apprpriate! For an 8 year old, there are lots of things at the Children’s Museum. Depending on interests, the ro=bit servers at Steak and Egg Cafe in NW DC may enchant. The best museum may be the Udvar-Hazy branch of the Air and space Museum way out in VA. It’s huge and utterly wonderful. My ,much better half knows tons of stuff for children in DC, so feel free to holler if /when you return.

Steve and I have sometime identical and sometimes radically different tastes, as one might guess.

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SO has been there twice (both times we were visiting my BIL, who lives in the area, for very sad reasons). We were blown away by it.
And thank you for your kind offer to help. I will put out the Bat signal next time!

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Thank you!