The aroma almost blindsides you, not because you don’t expect it at this restaurant, but because you’ve never inhaled anything like it in this part of town. The air is pungent with the decay of a thousand shellfish, a glorious stink that would not be out of place at a Saigon food stall or a noodle shop inside the Eden Center in Falls Church.
It’s a bowl of crab noodle soup at Bún DC, and this version pushes a whole-hog agenda. Its gauzy broth is rimmed with a persimmon-colored oil, more timid than terrifying, and front-loaded with pig offal: heart, liver, blood and even crunchy strips of ear, which are the antidote to those luscious pieces of pork belly also submerged in the bowl.
2905 Sherman Ave. NW,
Hours: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday, and Wednesday through Sunday. Closed Tuesday.
Nearest Metro: Columbia Heights, with a half-mile walk to the restaurant.