VEJER DE LA FRONTERA, Cadiz province--two weeks of eating, 2025

Maribel · March 24, 2025, 3:45pm

Rick Steves put Arcos on the tourist map among his American readers, while Ronda has been known since the days of Hemingway, Orson Wells, Ranier Maria Rilke and as the “cradle” of modern bullfighting (Pedro Romero) and home to Antonio Ordoñez.

I first visited Ronda in 1970 as a young girl when it was still quite a small, beautiful whitewashed hill town but back then already quite well known. Now it has a population of 33,000+.

Yes, Ronda is just more quickly accessible from the coast without a car, making for an easy day trip. Multiple bus tour excursions depart from the coast daily to Ronda.

And it has become a center of wine tourism with now some 25 wineries (La Melonera, Conrad, Schatz, Descalzos Viejos, Cortijo de los Aguilares for its pinot noirs), plus olive oil tourism with a new almazara, LA Organic, designed by Philippe Starck.

We’ve happily used Ronda as a 4-5 night base for exploring the entire Serranía, for wine touring, visiting the other perched white villages, the pueblos blancos, for the Roman ruins of Acinipo, “Reserva Tauro”, the paleolithic caves of La Pileta, etc.

Although gastronomically this area (mountain cuisine) isn’t nearly as interesting to us as the Costa de la Luz, with the exception of the Michelin-starred Bardal and its casual sibling, Tragatá.
Bardal, when named Tragabuches, was where Dani García got his start, BTW.
But there are the famous Spain-wide molletes from Obrador Máximo in Benaojám that are worth the trip.

We’ve explored small Medina Sidonia several times, although for me it can’t be compared in beauty to Vejer, but that’s just a personal and probably quite biased opinion. We’ve even visited Alvaro Domecq’s ranch, his ganaderia A Campo Abierto. There are several of these in the area. Medina Sidonia is also well known for these.

erica1 · March 25, 2025, 2:09pm

Thank you, Maribel!!!

I had my third lunch of this year at ANTONIO in Zahara.

Once again, I had a half order of sashimi de ventresca, and limited myself to one carabinero. Following this, a small sole (lenguado) that weighed in at about 300 grams.

I followed the suggestion of my waiter, Luis, and took it baked in the oven, in olive oil, rather than grilled.

Presenting the fish before plating for the table:

Baked lenguado in olive oil, served with exquisite quartered hearts of artichoke and potatoes that were SO MUCH BETTER than the potatoes I can buy in the US. (I am tempted to bring some home with me–how crazy is that??)

One of my two regular waiters showing off the bottle of the complimentary “chupito,” a shot of cream liqueur from Galicia; staff has fun vamping for my photos.

Restaurant and hotel complex, ANTONIO, seen from the wide sandy beach of Atlanterra, outside Zahara de los Atunes:

Bill for my lunch; I took half of the fish back to my room:

At night, I finished off the remaining round of Extremaduran sheep cheese that I had bought in Sevilla; a winner of awards, this cheese was creamy with a sheepy scent. (please forgive my sorely inadequate descriptions; next time I might take a cheese class)

I ate it in my room with good bread, toasted, and slices of sweet, pale green melon:

If I retain my nerve, and if rain does not pour down as it now threatens to do, I will take an after-dark drive to Barbate, for a second meal at EL CAMPERO.
(I have not yet driven in darkness, but the roads are good and I have GPS in the rental car; it’s a straight shot to Barbate and there are several signs leading to EL CAMPERO)

erica1 · March 27, 2025, 5:15pm

I did take that after-dark drive, last night, for dinner at EL CAMPERO. the drive was easy and I found parking just across the street.

I had only two dishes but both were excellent, as was the aperitivo–their tuna lasagna, one of their best cold dishes:

Complimentary square of tuna lasagna, with an impossibly thin sheet of pasta separating the layers of tuna pate:

Bar area of EL CAMPERO–8:30pm on a Wednesday night:

Once again: Sashimi of ventresca, half order. Melt in your mouth miracle, although I’d give the edge on this dish to ANTONIO, and I do not understand the reason why theirs taste just a touch better than this. Are there different parts of the ventresca with one being superior to the other?

Finally, PARPATANA (the fatty part of the jaw of the fish) with curry and coconut. Gelatinous and so delicious. Amazing how the fish flakes with the touch of a fork. I wish there had been a bit more sauce. Probably among the “must orders” here. This is a half order and it filled me up; rice was cooked two ways–fried and steamed. Maybe they could have increased the portion size, just a bit?? Never mind, this is a superb restaurant and should be on the list of anyone visiting this area. Splendid and professional service–unforgettable.

With one glass of white wine, superb bread, and a complementary chupito:

54.20 euro

Maribel · March 27, 2025, 8:27pm

@erica1
I love parpatana. We had a great dish of it on Sunday in Madrid at Morgana in Chueca.

Did you get any scoop about the recent sale to Madrid’s Azotea group?

erica1 · March 29, 2025, 11:40am

Maribel, I did not get the scoop…will have to remain on the case to see if I can learn anything!!

In a very kind gesture, Isabel at my hotel, who lives in Medina, brought me a going away gift of two HEAVY boxes of pastry from Sobrina de las Trejas. I will keep them sealed until I get home; she said that these were her two favorites.

Last night my hotel phoned a taxi to transport me to Vejer. The town was magical at night!! Beautifully illuminated, and few people about at 8:30 on a Friday night. I felt as if I were strolling about on a movie set. I asked the (very talkative and extremely engaging, taxista, to drop me at the Plaza Espana, the main square of Vejer. I cannot imagine a more beautiful square anywhere in the world, that this one on this March evening. As per my usual, I got a bit lost when trying to make my way to the restaurant, but I did get to see a bit more of the town…oh, my goodness, this is the quintessential Andaluz “white town!!!” More glorious because at times there was not another person in sight. And the view of La Janda from the overlook, with one of the windmills in the distance!!

I had a table for one reserved at NAREA, an endearing little restaurant about year old, that has just received a coveted “sol,” or “sun” from the Repsol guide, I was greeted with enthusiasm and shown to a table in the covered space in front of the restaurant–beautiful and intimate. I was the first one there at about 8:45 but by the time I left around 10:30, all of the tables were filled.

Maribel, you will like this: There was a table of three seated next to me–a couple and a younger woman who may have been their daughter. Their entire conversation centered on a trip they had just taken from Madrid, to a “tiny town that no one knows about called Sepulveda…and to another even smaller town–Pedraza.”

They went on to rave about the lechazo and the suckling pig in both towns (I must report that they did get a few details mixed up, as they thought that Segovia was famous for suckling lamb (at a “big famous place where they cut the lamb with a plate…near the Segovia Aqueduct” and Pedraza famous for suckling pig…(they did get JOSE MARIA right in Segovia) Far be it for this foreigner to step in, but I did smile inside!!).

I took the set, tasting menu, which was a tremendous “deal,” at 38 euro; there were a few substitutes; will return soon and describe the dinner.

erica1 · March 29, 2025, 6:21pm

The set carta (38 euro pp) began with a trio (right to left) of smoked chimichurri butter (to smear onto very good turmeric-flavored bread: I’ve seen turmeric used in several breads in this area) and a sublime coarse puree of black olives (I could have devoured an entire sandwich with this–fantastic!!), and excellent olive oil from nearby Medina Sidonia.

Salad of arugula with sliced strawberries and ribbons of white eggplant flesh arrived next…I’m not sure that the strawberries (especially in this season) were a smart addition but the salad was tasty enough.

Artichoke heart was substituted for the mushrooms on the set carta; I was happy with this: Perfect artichoke draped with a slip of jamon Iberico; one of my favorite courses.

Less successful: Ravioli of butternut squash. The filling was good but the pasta was a bit thick–too thick for the filling-- and the brown sauce, with Payoyo cheese, overpowered the ravioli. Tasty but could be improved:

I had been intrigued by idea of skate (raya) with the red lard integral to the kitchens of this corner of Andalucia. While the fish was perfectly cooked, I thought the lard overpowered the dish. While it was not at all greasy (forget your conceptions of lard–this one can be delicate and downright fantastic in the kitchen) it was just too heavy for the fish. The plated dish was gorgeous but in the end I was disappointed. and I found myself pushing away the sauce and concentrating on the skate which was, again, impeccably cooked. I have not seen raya on many menus around here but that’s probably because I’ve not looked too closely, always zoning in on the sublime shellfish, instead.

The final savory dish was a winner.
Listed on the menu as “Pithivier Criollo,” I asked around and no one outside the restaurant had heard of this name. Named after a town in France, this reminded me of a “Wellington” preparation.,

This dish was unusual, and so delicious—layers of delicate savory pastry (hojaldre??) filled with a combination of rich duck meat and even richer duck foie (liver). Not only interesting but really delicious!!!

I will probably return to NAREA next year and will focus on this dish, the artichoke, and whatever else sounds interesting. I hope that the kitchen refines a few dishes, but overall I was happy with my dinner…

I substituted the dessert listed on the carta for one that called to me: A mousse of chocolate and gianduja and a few other delicacies, lathered with a clear, sticky syrup (forgive the lack of details here)… This was a perfect way to conclude the dinner.

A glass of Cadiz local white wine (Matalian) brought the total to a reasonable 43.50 euro.

I took a taxi back and forth from my hotel; each way cost about 17 euro and I was treated to wonderful conversation in both directions…oh, my one of the drivers, born in Vejer, spoke in an accent that I had to struggle to understand. I have not had much trouble understanding the local speech but this one was a bit of a puzzle! And the views at night from the road winding down from Vejer town were astounding!!! As was the town at night…it’s magic!!!

Pithivier:

Skate with red lard, manteca colora:

tomt · April 3, 2025, 2:00pm

Phenomenal report! And your pics are amazing. Thank you.

Also, enough already, my jealousy can only stand so much I was away for a week on my vacation when you had already started this and I’ve been home for 2 weeks.

erica1 · April 5, 2025, 1:13pm

You are very welcome, Tom. This really was a dream trip!
I gained six pounds!!

Maribel · April 7, 2025, 8:00am

@erica1,
I’m so glad you enjoyed my recommendation of NAREA. Although I haven’t had a chance yet to try it, I was fairly confident that you would enjoy this new Repsol sunned dining spot, but I wasn’t so sure about the skate and red lard dish. I too thought the red lard addition would be too heavy.

Here’s the scoop today in Spanish regarding the El Campero sale from El País. I hope you can read it…don´t know whether it will be behind a pay wall, because I´m a subscriber.

In short, the negotiations went on for a year, as owner Pepe (José) Melero, age 68, had to be very convinced that his legacy would continue with the Azotea group. He wanted to retire so he was searching for a proper successor. He had been working at El Campero for 50 years, creating what has been a stellar brand, and what is considered to be the blue fin “temple” of Spain.

The 85 employees will remain, including Julio Vázquez, the chef de cuisine. The interior will not change, nor will the purveyors or the prices, the Azotea director proclaims.

The Azotea group already has 3 establishments in the Cádiz province–
the Valhalla on El Palmar beach (I remember explaining here somewhere that the Madrid Azotea group’s Valhalla isn’t related to the Sevilla Azotea’s new-ish chiringuito on the same beach.)
the El Cuartel Del Mar in Chiclana on La Barrosa beach
the Sal Verde in San Roque
This group also is in charge of several roof top bar/restaurants in Madrid (their azoteas).

erica1 · April 7, 2025, 9:23pm

Maribel that’s comforting news; I would hate for the new owners to change anything about EL CAMPERO. We will have to see. I remember how confused I was between their Azotea on El Palmar and “our” Azotea just a few steps away.

I admit that I scraped most of the red lard off the skate–it’s just too heavy for the fish, but it was nice to see skate, which I’m not sure I’ve ever seen in Spain. I think you would really like NAREA. As you imagine, the staff were lovely. And it’s such a beautiful perch, next to the overlook with that tremendous view of La Janda. (I still have not seen those windmills up close). Speaking of the manteca colora, I’ve not seen it much in restaurant dishes; I saw white lard with pork at LA DUQUESA, but not the red. I would imagine it would go well with a mar y montana type dish, with the seafood and pork…

Maribel · April 8, 2025, 8:14am

Skate (raya) is fairly common here.
My best skate dish ever has been the raya con mantequilla that Sergio prepares at LaLópez inside the mercado gastronómico downstairs in the Mercado de Antón Martín. It’s fantastic.

I urge you to go to this tiny spot, as Maialen from San Sebastián is a lovely and amusing hostess. If she asks you “What’s the password?”, just answer Maribel.
Sergio’s tiramisu prepared tableside is memorable, and they have a very impressive wine selection at popular prices. All my chef and food lover friends frequent it. LaLópez recently won a Metrópoli award for the best restaurant with a tab under 40 euros (although one can spend more…).

erica1 · April 8, 2025, 6:50pm

La Lopez will be on my list for next time in Madrid. I remember a HO poster loved this place. There are SO MANY fantastic spots to try in your city, it’s so difficult to choose, especially since I tend to return to places I’ve liked on previous trips…the answer obviously, is to book a longer stay in Madrid.

Maribel · April 8, 2025, 6:57pm

One of the HO posters and his wife, now personal friends and true gourmet travelers with whom we’ve have lovely meals here in Madrid, went to LaLópez and Maialen asked him, “What’s the password?” and he answered “Maribel”. She’s really funny, speaks perfect English and is absolutely delightful. Sergio worked at the now closed Viridiana and it shows. He’s very, very talented.

Yes, Madrid is now one of Europe’s very top culinary destinations. Book a longer stay!