VEJER DE LA FRONTERA, Cadiz province--two weeks of eating, 2025

[erica1]

I have written two threads about this area, in 2023 and 2024. I’ve returned now, for two full weeks, after spending 5 nights in Sevilla.

My hotel is just outside the white hill town of Vejer de la Frontera in the province of Cadiz. I’m about an hour from the city of Jerez (highly recommend for dining) and about the same from the city of Cadiz.

Although it receives little coverage in the English-language press (or at least in the North American press), this is an area blessed with much natural beauty and replete with fantastic eating opportunities, both for meat and seafood. Vejer is only a few minutes’ drive from the Atlantic Ocean–the COSTA DE LA LUZ, and receives the bounty of both the sea, and the fertile lands well known for retino beef. There are restaurants specializing in meat, and specializing of fish, especially the red, bluefin tuna caught along these coasts every spring, by the ancient “almadraba” method. I believe I wrote more details in my earlier threads on this area.

I’ve passed three full days now, out of a proposed two-week-long stay. I will then spend one night in Jerez before flying back to the US, via Madrid.

During the past two days, I revisited my favorites from years before; both of these restaurants are near the top of their categories in all of Spain–the first for seafood and the second, for meat.

My first lunch was at RESTAURANTE ANTONIO, on the beach outside the coastal village of Zahara de los Atunes. Here are some photos; I will return several times during my stay. Note that booking here is only by phone and you must be persistent.

Above is the welcome, a meaty mussel in (maybe?) escabeche. So much better than any mussels I’ve eaten in the US, even at “good” seafood restaurants. I imagine it’s a conserva (tinned) but not sure. It was perfect!!
I am having a little trouble with writing inside the box here…will try again alter, as the internet in the hotel is not always 100%…

Will try to post one more photo, of my next dish which was the incredible sashimi of ventresca tuna; this is a half order and I ate with my eyes closed, as I always do when I am eating something incredibly wonderful. I spent a week in Tokyo not long ago and this was better than any tuna I sampled in that city. My comparison is faulty, I know, but let’s just say that I do not imagine you can find better toro than right here on this stretch of the Costa de La Luz and, especially at ANTONIO and at EL CAMPERO:

The seaweed salad was a wonder in itself, and I would order a large portion of this sometime!!! Look at the marbling on the slices of bluefin!!! Is this my single most favorite dish anywhere in the world? Maybe. ANTONIO is certainly among my favorite restaurants in Europe. And this bluefin is caught sustainably and I believe it is not endangered, but perhaps Maribel will elaborate, in case anyone questions its popularity in this part of Spain.

[Maribel]

Yes the atún rojo or bluefin is no longer endangered and through the ancient almadraba method is caught sustainably.
Each year Spain’s Ministry of Agriculture, Fishing and Nutrition in late winter assigns to the 4 almadrabas, in Conil, Barbate, Zahara de los Atunes and Tarifa, their annual quotas, not to exceed those quotas.
For this next 2025 almadraba season they have been assigned a total quota of 6783 toneladas. There will be 819 fishing boats involved in this annual event.

@erica1
While I know that your dining dance card during these 2 weeks is quite full, I just wanted to alert you to the new (as of last night’s Gala) restaurant in Vejer now sporting one Repsol sun.
It’s the one-year old NAREA, opened in the center of town by a young duo, Jaime Batista from Sanlúcar de Barrameda and Alejandra Gnisci of Buenos Aires but raised in Málaga.
Two of their outstanding dishes are raya (skate) in manteca colorá and venison a la gaditana with parsnips and saffron.

https://www.narearestaurante.com

As you note, this area of Cádiz, the Costa de la Luz, often dubbed “Cadizfornia” is indeed replete with fantastic dining opportunities, along with the esteemed dining of the Sherry Triangle nearby (Sanlúcar de Barrameda, Jerez de la Frontera, Puerto de Santa Maria). .

Last night, when watching the Repsol Gala (and cheering on our dear friends from Haro who won a sol) I was reminded of all the restaurants in this magnificent stretch of coast that have been rewarded Repsol suns:

Alevante and Cataria, both in the resort area of Novo Sancti Petri, Chiclana de la Frontera
Antonio in Zahara de los Atunes
Atxa in Tarifa
La Castillería in Vejer (pedanía of Santa Lucía)
El Alférez in El Palmar, Vejer

When traveling the length and breadth of Spain, we make regular use of the Repsol guide, online or via the app, to discover new and quite dependable dining experiences, either having been bestowed a Sol or receiving a Repsol recommendation or even those conferred with a solete–casual tapas places, ice cream emporia, roadside diner spots or beachside bars/shacks (chiringuitos).

[erica1]

Maribel thanks so much! But what about EL CAMPERO? Not on the list?
(I had a small lunch there today…will post photos soon). VENTA LA DUQUESA will be on this coming week’s agenda. And the skate in red lard at NAREA. Yes!!! So true, there are SO many enticing places to eat within a small radius of here—two weeks is really not enough to visit even a small amount of these addresses unless you want to do nothing but drive to a different restaurant every day, which ice more or less what I do but I do like to have a day or so to relax at the “casa!” I’m amazed at how I’ve lost the hesitancy about driving in Spain–it’s terrifically easy in this area, much easier than in the NYC area by a. long shot.

I’ve already sent feelers out for a longer stay next spring. And I’ve just read about the term “pedania,” which was new to me but I see that Los Parrelejos (where I am right now) is a “pedania,” of Vejer. Once I drive about a mile or less from the abode, I can spy Vejer on the hill, shimmering like a white mirage.

[Maribel]

Yipes! El Campero has very, very well deserved TWO Repsol suns. I just listed the ones with one sol!

Yes, these hamlets are extensions or pedanías within the municipality of Vejer.

If you have a longer stay next spring, I have more dining ideas…

[erica1]

Maribel you are a joya! A diamanté!!

Here are more photos, to wrap up my lunch on the first full day in this area, at RESTAURANTE ANTONIO. They no longer have the artichoke on the menu, but have added leeks, which I seem to spot more and more on menus this year than ever before:

Braised leek; the black specks are flake salt:

Leek, again, with bar in background; full on Saturday afternoon; booking ahead is essential here; accomplished only by phone, after 11:30am.

A close-up of two carabineros, scarlet shrimp; ANTONIO serves the best I’ve ever had; note all of the inner roe, etc. I sopped up every last bit with their excellent turmeric bread, one of two or three breads offered this past weekend.

Pair of carabineros:

This was a pricey meal, for just under 125 euro including tax and bread charge, plus a glass of Ladron de Guevara local semi-dry white wine. But I thought well worth it. Just under a half kilo of carabineros cost 87 euro but bite for bite, I cannot imagine a better value. If you skip the most expensive shellfish, like these, you can have a fantastic meal here for about half the price.

[Maribel]

Yes, those incredibly delicious carabineros are very expensive but wow, these at Antonio look heavenly!
Ymmm!

[erica1]

Maribel, I’ve decided! ANTONIO is my favorite of all the (great) restaurants that I’ve visited within a 45-minute or less, drive from Vejer.

To come soon: (I’m falling behind, as usual)

Lunch at LA CASTILLERIA and a (small) lunch at EL CAMPERO.
I’ve been interspersing lunches out with dinners at the hotel where a three-course dinner costs 50 euro (up from 40 euro last year) --simple fare, good quality. And very convenient!! Tonight Chef Connie ( she spent some years as a chef at EL CALIFA in Vejer; I just learned that she, (and her husband from UK) are close friends with the owner of LA CALIFA and other properties in Vejer, James Stuart:

El surfista que llegó a Vejer buscando un bocadillo y ahora tiene un imperio...

[Maribel]

Yes, the 2 star el Califa is where we stay, but in its 8-room 4-star annex, which is called Plaza 18.
Stuart put Vejer on the gastronomic map and now has more than a dozen properties, restaurants, the hotel, the tetería, apartments, a hammam.

This is his latest acquisition.

La familia de Califa Casas crece con La Casa del Emir, La Azotea y Las...

I was wondering which of the 3 was now going to be your favorite…Quetion answered!

BTW,
José Andrés bought a house near Antonio last year so no longer stays at the hotel.

[erica1]

I wonder if I could do a bit of gawking and do a “drive by” past his house!!
I imagine it’s in a gated community within Atlanterra, but maybe not…I imagine it’s glorious! The views!

For the first time, I walked outside to the pool area of HOTEL ANTONIO. What a gorgeous setting!! Directly on the beach! Imagine staying there and walking a few steps to the restaurant for meals?? But it would be difficult for me to stay anywhere else but where I am now.

I need to stop blathering and post some photos!!

[Maribel]

Burning question, have you used your hideaway’s pool yet or has it not stopped raining?

As soon as José invites me to lunch, I’ll let you know where his house is!

[HellieF]

Yes! The address and pics of the meal, we definitely would need that.

Sitting at the gate at JFK, waiting for our adventure to start. Next stop, Málaga!

[Maribel]

Málaga,
Lots of great dining here
One of the very best paellas we’ve had recently at Beluga (and a recent recipient of a Repsol sun). The chef hails from Alicante, la Isla de Tabarca.

Restaurante Beluga - Cocina Meridiana by Diego René - Málaga

On the informal side, the very wine and Iberian ham centric Anyway Wine in its new location. Great vibe, great pricing, excellent small plates.

ANYWAY WINE BAR - Vinos Naturales, quesos e ibéricos 😋

[HellieF]

Thanks, Maribel. Our connecting flight leaves in a couple of hours. We have only two nights in Málaga, and I think tonight will be early to bed. We already have a reservation at Anyway for tomorrow night, I’ve been doing my homework!

[erica1]

Ok, Maribel, it’s a deal! Let me know when JA invites you. And I’ll even drive you to his house! I have swum every single day since the day of arrival!! There are always periods of sun, or at least periods with no rain. And because the (salt water!) pool is heated very well, the cool and windy weather, and the clouds, don’t matter. And I’m always the only one swimming.

Hellie I wish. you a wonderful tine!!! After Malaga, where??

LA CASTILLERIA, Santa Lucia, just below hill town of Vejer de la Frontera; considered among the finest meat restaurants in southern Spain. Family run. Open only for lunch this season:

Aperitivo of incredibly flavorful pureed vegetable soup:

This is what remained after I ate most of my HALF order (!) of little, slightly chistorra sausages from Navarra–my favorite sausages in Spain; I took them back with me and will have them with eggs for breakfast. Maybe.

Artichoke stuffed with minced lamb. Among my favorites here. (I wrote about LA CASTILLERIA, and the two restaurants that will follow, on my threads about this area from 2023 and 2024.)

Half an order of chuletitas de Cordero, suckling lamb chops; I often request a half order, so I can try as many different dishes as possible:

As I was finishing up just before 4pm, people were still arriving for lunch:

Side view of exterior reveals little of what’s inside:

Total, including excellent bread and one glass wine: 48 euro

[erica1]

https://restaurantecastilleria.com/carta-comidas/

[erica1]

EL CAMPERO, Barbate

I’ve gone on and on about EL CAMPERO here in the past. It’s a landmark restaurant, probably the most famous tuna specialist in Spain and maybe in Europe. Want to try heart of bluefin? Belly? Loin or tail? Tuna meatballs? It’s all here, in a sparkling white contemporary restaurant in this unassuming fishing town. I sit in the bar area, at a high top table next to the big windows, but there are also more formal dining areas.
Service is exceptional and prices represent excellent value.

Complimentary serving of pressed tuna eggs, huevas de atun; these were a tad dry (hence the dousing of olive oil) but since I’ve never had them before, I have no basis for comparison and I have to believe that this was a perfect specimen, since it was turned out by the kitchen at EL CAMPERO. I imagine it’s a conserva, as I brought a few tins from Gadira (their shop in Barbate is a few blocks from the restaurant, near the Mercado de Abastos,) but I gave them away as gifts).

As usually, I followed with a half order of ventresca, the belly of the bluefin, served sashimi style, with. soy sauce, pickled ginger, wasabi, and a soy mayonnaise. There are no words for this! (28 euro)

Final dish of this small lunch: Tuna cheek with a Port sauce. The carrillera is always on the menu, the sauce changes from season to season. (10.50)

The wine is one I like very much: Ladron de Guevara, from this province.

Here is the final “chupito,” and a few pics of EL CAMPERO

Final bill: 44.70euro.
Very easy to drive here, and to find parking. Two Repsol “suns.”
Menu has translation in English.

El Campero - Restaurante El Campero

[Maribel]

erica,
Looks like El Campero is holding up its two Repsol suns quite well! The ventresca looks divine. I agree that there are no words for that dish.
I have yet to try the carrillera.

The Ladrón de Guevara semi dulce is actually produced in La Rioja Alavesa in the village of Elciego at Bodegas Valdelana.

Glad you’ve been able to swim once a day when the sun peeks out.

[erica1]

Yesterday was the first day it rained almost non-stop, but it was not at all cold. But the sun is out in full force now, Friday morning!!

A return to ANTONIO was yesterday’s main event. Since I never seem to be able to forego the tuna belly sashimi and the carabineros, I’m afraid my meals there do not offer in-depth exploration of their menu. I’m due to go back Monday, so will attempt to branch out then.

Maribel I don’t know why I assumed Ladron de Guevara was a local wine. Is it just a coincidence that both EL CAMPERO and ANTONIO have it on their lists? I like it a lot, even though I know it’s not the “right” wine for the seafood I order. Would you not think they would offer an Albarino for that, by the glass?

Yesterday I began with a full order of sashimi de ventresca and one again, I closed my eyes while savoring every bite.

Next, one giant carabinero and, at the suggestion of my waiter, I added two “gambas alistados.” These are sometimes translated as “tiger prawns” but they bear no resemblance to those (often frozen, from South America, I think) shrimp we find in the US. These are pale red in color and slightly smaller than carabineros. I have to find Maribel’s summary of the various shrimp; she posted it very recently.

I had to stifle a chuckle at this point in the ordering. I had asked my (very experienced and professional, like all of those at ANTONIO) waiter to tell me the origen of these prawns. He waved his hand and indicated somewhere down the beach and told me “Oh, they come from…you know…Huelva, or Galicia…I don’t remember, but somewhere like that.”
(It was a little funny, to me, because Huelva is nowhere near Galicia!!)

In any case, these prawns were served whole and they had an incredibly sweet taste…also “close my eyes” great!! Both types were grilled but the alistados were served more towards the undercooked than were the carabineros… Both were, in what I think is a local exclamation of praise: “BRUTAL!!”

Croqueta of spinach and Payoyo cheese:

Part of the shellfish offerings, including several kinds of prawns:

After the sashimi, the striped prawns from “somewhere” in Spain!!! (I think, near Huelva, west of here)

One carabinero, grilled. Look how the depression containing the inner liquids (what are these called??) forms a little “soup bowl,” that you can dip pieces of the (turmeric) bread into…absolute paradise. And those glorious colors!!!

[erica1]

I drove back to Vejer along the coastal road that links Zahara de los Atunes to Barbate. Over and over again I kept exclaiming, out loud: “Look at this! Look at this!” It was drizzling, and foggy and the spumy sea, the green fields full of Retinto cows that sloped to the sands, the white cubes of Barbate’s buildings rising up in the distance. It was so beautiful so as to be almost hallucinatory. And deserted, except for a couple of fishermen walking along the road with their poles… Incredible that such long stretches of sandy beach, with no high rise hotels, edge the coast in this area of Andalucia. Another world from the Costa del Sol, that’s for sure. I’m sure the beaches are jammed in summer but they can’t be too crowded because I did not see parking. I did spot a bike path running between the road and the water, though.

[Maribel]

The gamba alistada is a word I learned, as it just means a pale red shrimp, and I think they come from Huelva, around Ayamonte.

That croqueta looks delicious! Anything with payoyo cheese for me is a winner.

About that Ladrón de Guevara semi dulce…I don’t why it was on both wine lists…must just be popular. Hmmm…I’m looking at the El Campero list right now and Antonio´s offerings by the glass.

I’m surprised neither has a Forlong (from El Puerto de Santa Maria but not semi sweet) by the glass, my favorite (Antonio only has it by the bottle under “vinos de pasto”).
But I see that El Campero has another that I love and order in other Cádiz restaurants, the Viña Matalián, a dry wine of 100% palomino that they serve at El Faro. Those are the two that I order the most plus an Entrechuelos blanco.

I see that El Campero offers Avancia, one of my favorite godellos. Antonio has a A Telleira, a godello / treixadura blend, but in Cádiz, I tend to stick to Vinos de Cádiz wines. Just a habit.