[Uji, Japan] Fantastic soba at Tsubameya つばめ屋

We rent a car in Kyoto for a road trip to Gifu, Nagano and Ishikawa provinces. People usually take trains around the country because of the excellent public transportation system. For us, because of the distance we needed to cover and the lack of transportation options in some of the places, it made much more sense to drive. It took us to many places that we would have never been able to get to with public transportation, and away from the tourist crowds. It was my favorite part of the trip, everything considered, including food.

Driving in Japan is not for the faint of heart, though. The roads, of course, are meticulously maintained. But the roads are also sized for the Japanese passenger cars that are really narrow. On the afternoon of the first day of the roadtrip when we were traveling to Gifu from Uji, it was quite stressful driving in some small rural roads along raised river dikes with full sized trucks passing in the opposite direction at 50kph. It was commented to me many times that I was very close to the edge of the dike that I should move farther away from. So the choice was, should I move closer to the median and risk a head-on collision with a truck that took up 3/4 of the road? Or should I leave only half a foot to the edge of the dike and risk falling off the dike? :rofl: Falling off the dike seemed more palatable to me. I would take my chances.

The first stop after Kyoto was actually not that far in Uji, normally a daytrip from Kyoto. Uji and the surrounding areas have been an important production and distribution center of green tea. And that’s the reason we visited.

One of the many, many green tea shops in Uji. Tsujiri was found in 1860, and credited for popularizing quality green tea in Japan as well as outside. Their main branch in Uji:

We did some walking around the main street. Its almost lunch time so we went to Tsubameya, a restaurant known for their soba, including matcha soba. And what awesome soba they served.

They offered three type of soba: Soba noodle made of Uji matcha tea. 80% buckwheat noodle made with buckwheat from Horokanai, Hokkaido, and 100% buckwheat noodle made locally in Kyoto.

We got their various soba set with various types of tempura, fish and vegetable and soup. It was hot out so the chilled soba was much welcomed. Their matcha soba and the 80% buckwheat soba had great texture, a certain smoothness and nuanced buckwheat flavors. Mixed with their soy sauce based sauce it was refreshing and delightful. Easily one of my favorite meals on this trip. Their tempuras was light, and well prepared.

Restaurants like this one is a good reason to like specialist restaurants in Japan. They hone their technique over decades, and they are really good in what they do, and don’t try to be something else that they aren’t.

We liked this local soda very much.

The downstair dining room:

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Sounds like you guys had a very good trip.

Uji was also a fun day trip for us. A relaxing scenic JR ride through the hills and countryside. No death defying moments to spice up the day though.

I’m not a matcha fancier, but managed to enjoy our lunch at that other famous matcha restaurant founded 1854. Great to feel the layers of history walking around the smaller towns.

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Which other matcha restaurant was it?

Yeah its definitely fun. Uji was like a very relaxed, uncrowded mini Kyoto. Everything’s just slower. We were like, where were all the people?

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Nakamura Tokichi Honten, established 1854. Beautiul restaurant, our seats were by the lovely courtyard on a gorgeous day.

Simple sets eases the decision process.

Leisurely stroll down the main drag through town. A few lost-in-time shops, many offering irresistable bites.

Aji and Chicken Popsicle for dessert as we enjoyed the serenity of water under the bridge.

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Those are popularly known as “tulips” in Japanese!

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Chicken “lollipops” in India :yum:

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Interestingly your matcha soba was much darker. They must have added a lot of matcha in it…!

Right after lunch, we passed by Takumi-no Yakata ( 宇治茶道場 匠の館) down the street. You can sit down and have a relaxing cup of tea. Or in our case, the kids had some fun with matcha art.

Afterwards, we passed by the Uji Shrine.

Crossed the bridge to the other side.

And went to the famed Byodo-in- 平等院, a buddhist temple. The Phoenix Hall, was from almost 1000 years ago, and surrounded by a pond. The temple inspired a replica temple of the same name in Oahu, Hawaii.

There’s also an ultra modern museum inside the grounds about Buddhism.

Afterwards, we left and strolled along the Omotesando leading to the temple. Full of matcha stuff.

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@sck @Google_Gourmet

The matcha soba noodles that you have tasted, texture wise, how is it like when compared to dried soba noodle?

Recently I have eaten some pretty good freshly home made udon and the noodle has a nice elasticity and al dente firmness when compared to the softer textured shop version.

The darker Soba may have been because our table was in the shade?

@naf I’m not experienced with Soba much. Expecially Matcha Soba. That said, those noodles were so good (bounce and chew) that we brought some dried Soba and mats back home to experiement some more. (we already had both back home, but thought the Japan OEM would be somehow better. :slight_smile:

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@Google_Gourmet No wonder the logo of your soba spot looks so familiar. Turns out Nakamura Tokichi was our last stop at Uji before we left for Gifu. We stopped by the Byodo-in branch. I think yours was nearer the JR station.

I just didn’t make the connection that it was the same place because we went for dessert only, and I didn’t even realize they served lunch elsewhere as well.

We got the two dessert items that were available for eat in only.

The Maruta Parfait with multiple layer of matcha dessert. Rather than trying to explain layer by layer, I would share their diagram.

It was interesting because its literally many desserts in one.

Matcha tea jelly and icecream. Jiggly and refreshing.

Try to get a window seat with a river view.

The first floor:

The second floor:

Wait was very long for dessert. Make sure you are ok with the wait. We wanted to stop by the tea fields at Wazuka but didn’t have enough time. So we directly drove to Gifu instead.

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We also indulged in a multi layered matcha dessert. In a shop with some Kimono’d ladies (Chinese tourists, of course)

Had more Matcha Soba, even darker!

A small plate of assorted desserts.

A couple of local kids interacting with nature. Loved their galoshes, they were were professionals, with nets and aquarium ready.

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