Trip Report: One Onion's Odyssey through Mostly Midtown Manhattan & a bit of Queens

I’m back; I went to the gym; I bought a horse; I’m ready to rehash. So much eating!

Wednesday morning, I boarded the Acela with Tatte’s egg and salmon sandwich in hand (I had planned to get something from Hearth & Hug’s soft opening, but the line was around the block, so that will have to wait, and will also have to find its way to the Boston board where both it and I belong.) I did take a look around at Penn Station dining and marveled at the train hall as instructed, but I wasn’t really hungry and wanted to save room for our first dinner, which I’d reserved at the Grand Central Oyster Bar. We ended up sharing most food which was great and I footed the bill for my lucky dining companion with the exception of her drinks, which I thought might raise suspicion. It’s okay; she earned it by living with me through my worst break-up during my 20s in grad school. We shared popcorn shrimp and an order of mussels. I had some cherrystones and littlenecks all to myself, as raw clams were a bridge too far for her but they are right up my alley. Then we split a tuna steak entree which was generously sized, gorgeously seared, and we left quite full.

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Next, we wandered in the direction of our hotel and stumbled upon the Bryant Park winter market which was a lovely diversion and where we bought some chocolates which were passable. I was thrilled to see a Hungarian Chimney Cake stall, which I've only had in Budapest and always since wondered why they aren't more commonly recognized as one of the Great Pastries of the World. Unfortunately, said **Kürtőskalács** was a pale facsimile of its Old World cousin, lacking a turn over a charcoal grill or any real caramelization of the sugars.

To cap off our first night, we were looking for a cocktail and I was drawn like a moth to the flame by the bar decor at Crab House Times Square. In a glitzy gilded marble over-the-top display of opulence, a herd (or is it a flock if they’re airborne??) of six enormous Pegasuses takes flight up and over the bar. This place was a trip, and turned out to be an all-you-can eat seafood situation, with groups tucked away into a labyrinth of private dining rooms. No matter, our drinks were meh but the mythical creature situation and the bartender’s eye-rolling at the rest of the patrons who apparently only come for the free birthday deal, more than made up for it.

Thus concluded my first day, and you’ll have to stay tuned for the next installment as I have about 300 receipts to deal with in order to get reimbursed for this Herculean eating effort.

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I didn’t know this existed until one of our regular visitors posted about it!

Priorities, priorities

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You BOUGHT A HORSE???

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I’ve only ever had lunch/brunch at the GCOB counter. That Crab House sounds like fun.

You’re a funny and engaging writer, and I look forward to your future installments!

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Isn’t she cute??

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She’s adorable! Color me green with jelly!!

I started horse vaulting at the tender age of 7, and (like many a young girl) I wished for nothing more than my own horse/pony — not being aware of the financial responsibilities or logistical issues. I rode well into my 20s, and I miss it like hell.

In 2020 I’d found a barn nearby with tons of trails and friendly, not too whacko owners (horse people, IYKYK :grinning_face_with_smiling_eyes:), then literally a week later sustained a work injury that took 6 months to “heal,” and which came back with a vengeance / chronic pain two years ago.

It’s located in a Very Bad Spot for sitting in a saddle (or just plain sitting for longer than 20 min), so I’ve all but given up on it :frowning:

Horses are wonderful creatures :heart:

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Day 2:
We woke up in need of coffee, and with a plan to experience the storied fish counter at Russ & Daughters’ 34th Street location which was convenient to our conference. Coffee was procured to drink along the walk at Starstruck on 9th Ave, and was good although the roast was a little light for my taste. At Russ, I was pleased to have a gluten free bagel option for my sandwich with pastrami cured salmon, capers and tomatoes.

For lunch, we slipped out of the conference and went to Mercado, where the previously pictured liquid olives were consumed, along with an order of calamari and a side of paella. The food was good, but the atmosphere felt touristy and the service was perfunctory.

I ended up back at the Hudson Yards complex later for a happy hour Aperol Spritz at Eataly, which was a bargain and came with a view of the sunset over the Vessel. As there was a high wind advisory for much of our trip, I did not end up climbing the Vessel, so this was the closest I came.

For dinner, we had planned to spend a ton of money at Milos, but after a tour at which the impressive waiter/captain personally introduced us to each and every individual fish we could have eaten, in enough detail to have made a visit to an aquarium wholly superfluous, we reconsidered and had apps and then a walk down the High Line. The atmosphere at Milos was certainly high-end, but there was a distinct soullessness to the whole endeavor. We did enjoy the octopus appetizer, as well as stuffed squash blossoms, and a glass of wine, but decided to do our next course elsewhere.

A lovely moonlit stroll down the High Line to Chelsea Market later, I found myself eating quite possibly the best fish tacos I’ve ever had in my life at Los Mariscos. (And I spent a week surfing and eating in Baja a couple years back, so I’ve eaten a few.)


Dessert was gelato at L’Arte del Gelato in the market, which was fine, but we do gelato and artisanal ice cream here in Boston quite well so nothing exceptional. A quick cab ride back to the hotel where I enjoyed a seltzer from the 40th floor bar at our hotel where the view was truly exceptional.

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Very nice.

Broadly, I agree, but for a future visit if you’re in the lower east side try Laboratorio del gelato.The intense flavor they’re able to infuse into their creations is extraordinary. (I have their licorice, coconut, malt, banana, and chocolate in my NY freezer as I write.)

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The High Line at night! How nice! Glad you enjoyed Chelsea Market.

That may be the most positive thing anyone has ever said about New York tacos :joy:

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Day 3:
Full from dinner and a day of eating, we woke up in search of coffee and decided to try Arvaci which we’d walked by on 37th and which appeared to roast their own beans. It seems like half the little coffee shops are roasting La Columbe and dishing up nothing special, but Arvaci was a total score- they are serious about their drip coffee and espresso drinks alike, and we went back several times. I would seek out one of their locations again in a heartbeat.

After a few hours of lectures and a free smoothie at the conference, I decided to take advantage of the unseasonably warm and sunny weather and ditched further official activities in favor of a subway ride to the north end of Central Park, and then a leisurely jog back through the park, ending again at the Bryant Park Winter Market where I snacked on some gluten free whole grain mini empanadas from Palenque Colombian Food. These were delicious and just the right size.


Back to the hotel for a shower and then a walk to Cha Long where we were prepared to flex our culinary muscles for our final dinner in Manhattan! This place was hopping, and a party in front of us were clearly trying to scam their way into a table with a fish story about lost reservation. No deal. Luckily, we’d been well-prepared by @fooddabbler and our table awaited. Cocktails were eye candy, although candy did describe the overwhelming sweetness of mine on my palate as well.

We were appropriately warned by the waiter that the apps we picked were spicy, but we forged on undaunted. The pomelo and cured branzino salad was magnificent and I think the one pepper rating was accurate. Our other app was the lumpu salad with raw scallops and pea shoots, which I will go far out of my way to eat anywhere. Again, 2 pepper rating and it did bring some heat. The waiter actually came back over as we were cleaning our plates and admitted he had us pegged as amateurs and had assumed we’d complain about the heat level or not finish. Nope. Not here.

For mains, I went with the whole branzino and my friend picked the pad thai, which while a safe option, is always a nice way to gauge how a new restaurant handles a familiar dish. The pad thai was listed as Southern style, and had a coconut curry based sauce which was different from the usual and I really liked that it came with a pile of fresh vegetables and sprouts. That fish- fantastic! Again, we earned the waiter’s respect and surprise as we snacked on every last morsel of crispy fin and dug out the cheeks, then mopped up the sauce with the side of rice. There was nary a scallion left behind. My friend picked the sticky rice dessert, further impressing the waiter with our ability to put away quantities of food for two petite women. They were unable to split the check, so I paid the entire bill of 2 each drinks, apps, and mains plus one dessert, which including tip and tax was right around $200-- completely reasonable.

We enjoyed our show (Operation Mincemeat), although I agree more with the New York Times critic’s review than the New Yorker review, and the wordplay would have been better had it been slightly more intelligible. Dessert for me on the way back to the hotel was a gluten free sweet potato cookie from Schmakary’s, excellent with torched marshmallow on top. Never something I would have picked as I always select chocolate as a matter of course, but it was their only GF option and sometimes having your hand forced results in a pleasant surprise. This concluded my midtown Manhattan portion; stay tuned as I conquer another region tomorrow!

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Such fun to read, thanks!!

Fabulous report. We loved Cha Long as well, and are so grateful for @fooddabbler’s rec.

I was surprised at just how good the tacos were as Los Mariscos.

@Parsnipity , you sure did NYC right!

And your Spring Onion and your horse are the very picture of happiness.

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Sounds like a perfect day.

The Bryant Park Winter Market and the Union Square Christmas Market always put me in a festive spirit. I think I ordered pelmeni (not GF) on my last visit to the Bryant Park Winter Market in Dec 2018.

There was also another Winter Market with food trucks and food stalls on 7th Ave at the time, South of 42nd, where I tried my first jian bing.

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We felt that a bit, too, at the preview we went to and were expecting they’d have sorted it out. Still, we found that even if the words were not always understandable we enjoyed the energy.

Glad you liked Cha Long. Without giving away too many secrets, I can see it from my NYC kitchen window (although from on high) which makes it hard to start cooking a meal these days.

Also glad that you had such a good time. Like others, I am enjoying your reports. I’d compliment you on your excellent English, but then I’d be the first to berate me.

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I’m doing what passes for work in my NYC apt today, and your scallops called – but were on no menu I could find. I called them. Yes, they’re available but the “raw” aspect does not permit delivery, or takeout, they say. (Hey, I eat delivered sushi all the time, and – sadly for many of you – I live to tell the tale.)

I respect their purity of purpose. That dish will have to wait for another time. Thanks for bringing it to my attention. I thought I’d eaten everything there.

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It’s featured / pictured up top on the menu linked on the website, I noticed it bec it’s new since I last went.

(They finally took the hor mok off, which they haven’t served in probably a year, though the photo still persists on the home page.)

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that menu looks really enticing!