So strange you’re having so much trouble. So many questions … I’m sure you’ve googled so I can’t add beyond that wisdom but here is a link just in case that talks about some causes and fixes …
My volkovs have blossom end rot too, but my black krims (which are in the same pot!) and bloody butchers are unaffected. It’s really hard to prevent in potted tomatoes (and more work than I care to do). I let the blighted tomatoes ripen anyway, and just eat the unaffected portion.
https://www.canr.msu.edu/resources/blossom_end_rot_tip_sheet
ETA The page that Thimes linked to suggests that blossom end rot can be halted once it begins. I do not believe this is the case - the calcium deficiency is present when the fruit first begins to develop, so I don’t think there’s anything to be done about it once the rot appears.
I had blossom end rod especially with Green Zebra variety for several years. Adding calcium to the soil improved the situation instantly.
This helps. Thanks!
I just googled, that tomato fertilizer I mentioned earlier has calcium
he does not have rot but a few tomatoes got sun burned and so, some of them that are exposed to full sun, he covers each of the exposed tomato with shredded white cloth from old bed sheets. He also sprays with distilled vinegar and whole milk. ( he has a bottle of each I do not know concentration. but I saw h I’m doing it as he asked me to get him some spray bottles ) He is away for 2 weeks so, I am not spraying, just harvesting for him.
This is today’s harvest.
The ambrosia melon was a surprise, I did not see it on previous days as I thought they were gone. Had one in fridge that I cut up yesterday.
My neighbor and friend, a master gardener, who comes to pick our tomatoes as she never has enough for her family of 2 kids with grandchildren says that for a beginner, my son’s effort has been excellent. She particularly loves our cherry tomatoes which she pops in her mouth when she is harvesting them.
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How did you add the calcium?
I bought a big pot of calcium supplement for plants. I’m sure you can find this in your garden shop.
BER is usally about uneven water, but it is related to calcium. The way I understand it the connection is how water effects getting calcium where it needs to go.
The shape and variety of the tomato plays a role as well, with paste tomatoes being most sensitive.
In my climate, to reduce it during peak season I need a really big volume of soil, a water reservoir, and water at least twice a day. With container planter, you water a lot you, and if you water a lot, you need to feed a lot, so maybe fertilizer with calcium is more of an issue in a pot. Do you know if your pot ever dries out?
Calmag is a supplement available in hydroponic places, but I haven’t had to use it when growing in soil. I use MaxiGrow and MaxiBloom from General Hydroponics in my containers.
Thanks!
Read my post and realized I sounded sure of myself.
Not sure of myself!
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Who is?
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Has anyone tried this?
So any advise on the fact that my tomatoes are still green? The Rot Stop did help with the blossom end rot though!!!
I guess you should just wait.
Mine are still green too. Seeds sows indoors in March, outdoor 1 June, but my pots only receive afternoon sun. I guess that affect the speed…
Talking about issues, I found 3 or 4 caterpillars happily devouring my cherry tomatoes even they are still green. First time out of my whole tomato growing life, usually they eat leaves…
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Mine stayed green for over a month then started getting color almost overnight.
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That’s fantastic-looking for such a small pot! Tomatoes tend to have enormous root systems. Try fertilizing them more often, they may be running out of nutrients due to competing for them.
To prevent blossom end rot do the following: Save your eggshells and put them through a food processor to grind them up into a powder. When you plant tomatoes, strip off the bottom leaves and dig a hole 6-8" deep. Put a tablespoonful of the crushed eggshells at the bottom of the hole and plant your tomato. The calcium helps to prevent blossom end rot. However, this may cause a temporary loss of nitrogen, so I just water the plant with a solution of fish or seaweed emulsion to offset this problem. Planting your tomatoes deeper allows roots to form along the stem. Then put lots of mulch like straw, grass clippings, etc., around the plant. This will keep weeds down and help the soil retain moisture.
Also, I note that this plant could use a bit a bit of pruning. Perhaps just pinch off any new shoots so that the plant’s energies will go toward producing tomatoes rather than foliage.
However, your plant looks quite healthy, so be patient and you’ll be rewarded with tomatoes in due time.
Thanks, Heuchera for your advice! I do appreciate it, but I no longer have that plant and didn’t plant any tomatoes this year. I’ll remember for next time do!
