Immigrants made this country’s food better.
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Calvin Trillin wrote a nice piece on that, saying that before the 1965 immigration reform act, there were only American Chinese, Italian, and generic “Continental” (La Maison de la Casa House).
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I found the article, which turned out to be the one he wrote about Chowhound. You have to have a subscription to read the whole thing, though.
https://archives.newyorker.com/newyorker/2001-09-03/flipbook/042/
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Thanks for the link! With a Ben Katchor illustration to boot.
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