The Problem With Alinea [Chicago, IL]

Our meal’s third course, Trampoline Papillote, had the flavors of southern France literally all wrapped up. The papillote part of the dish looked familiar enough, a parchment bag I tore open to reveal a burst of steam and a tasty slice of scallop nestled on a tart sauce niçoise. The “trampoline” — a membrane cast from modified potato starch and stretched over a bowl of bouillabaisse — was new to me. The server hovered a spoon containing a yellow sphere of encapsulated aïoli above the bowl. It bounced twice on the surface, creating a fissure, then slipped inside. Hi, Alinea.

1 Like