The article primarily features the creator, Santiago Rivera, of the crazily popular, so called “burnt cheesecake” invented and served at La Viña in San Sebastián’s Old Quarter, which has taken the country and the world by storm.
People now believe that “burnt cheesecake” has forever been a traditional Basque dessert, as it has been copied and sold in many, many parts by chains such as “Basque cake”, “Baask Cheesecakers” and in Madrid by “99 Cheesecake” and on and on. Some chains have even taken the liberty of adding toppings to it (¡Qué horror!).
Marti Buckley reproduced the recipe for the NT Times food section and increased its fame in her book, Basque Country, along with the many influencers tout this dessert. The demand became sky high.
But the true, traditional Basque desserts include pantxineta (Pastelería Otaegui), mamia or cuajada,el pastel vasco or Gâteau Basque on the French side, intxaursalsa (a Christmas specialty), goxua, bollo de mantequilla (at Bilbao’s Arrese), talo con chocolate and Idiazábal cheese with quince paste or membrillo, and from Tolosa, tejas and cigarillos plus others consumed on feast days.
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Harters
(John Hartley - a culinary patriot, cooking and eating in northwest England)
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The best version I’ve come across is at a restaurant in Port de Pollenca in Mallorca. Family which has owned the place since the 1940s are of Basque heritage. That said, my partner ordered an almond cake with almond ice cream which both of us reckoned was the more enjoyable dessert.
They also serve it at the new Armando in Chamberí (no rezzies), another restaurant run by the La Ancha group, the Redruello family, their new casual, inexpensive entry ,specializing in that huge breaded veal scallop, or the “Armando”.
There’s another Fismuler in Barcelona and Nino just opened yet another in Lisbon.
Las Tortillas de Gabino was a last minute decision (switched our reservation from a “fancier” place due to lack of wanting to be fancy). Everything we ate was great-- I especially liked the green beans in pea cream. Everyone was ordering the veal scallop, but after eating the cachopo in Asturias, I was done with fried.
I think that La Ancha group’s restaurants are really consistent and reasonably priced.
Las Tortillas de Gabino is our favorite lunch stop after a visit to the Museo Sorolla, which is now temporarily closed but scheduled to reopen sometime this year.
