I just posted this back at the old place but it seems like the people I want to reach are all headed over here.
My wife and I had a great dining experience at Tasting Counter this past Friday for an anniversary dinner.
The restaurant is run by Chef Peter Ungar who previously offered the chef’s table experience he ran from his home as the Dining Alternative. While I was aware of the Dining Alternative the schedule never quite worked for me and I was happy to finally satisfy my curiosity.
Reservations are via a ticketing system on the web site. Like a ride from an Uber driver, this also makes it so there is not a financial transaction tied to the meal. They claim to accommodate a variety dietary restrictions though this wasn’t an issue for us.
The location is at the back of the Aeronaut Brewing Company Foods Hub near Union Square in Somerville. We entered through Aeronaut which seemed like a busy brew pub in a somewhat raw space - fine for what it was but very different from the experience we were headed for. We were greeted at the sliding wooden door at the far end of the food hub and were transported to an entirely different place.
The restaurant is set up as a U-shaped counter around the spotless food prep area. The decor is minimalist and modern without being cold. Seating is on stools at the counter. The music choices were amusing, at least to me.
We chose the wine pairing with our meal. The other couple next to us chose what looked like the non-alcoholic pairing which looked intriguing to try another time. All in all we were served 9 plates each along with 10 wine pairings, plus welcoming and parting bites and a unique palate cleansing juice of Schisandra berry with pine nuts that made it feel like 12 plates. The menu was set before we arrived and revealed as the meal proceeded.
Service was by Chef Ungar and his assistant for most of the plates, and by the hostess and Chef Ungar’s wife for most of the drinks. Part of the experience is seeing the final steps of the dish taking shape in the kitchen in front of you just before they are served, along with talking about the preparation and ingredients. Chef Ungar is passionate about his food and technique and is happy to elaborate when asked. With all of the plates and explanations of the dishes this is not a quiet couple’s dinner in a hushed room, but there are other places for that.
The menu for the evening tilted toward seafood, but included duck, beef and very pleasant sweets towards the end. Both my wife and I tried the plates with components that are usually not our favorites - sea urchin in my case, duck in hers - and were pleasantly surprised at the achievements in taste and balance. All of the ingredients were of the highest quality, and most plates allowed the diner to combine the multiple flavors on the plate at their own pace. Tastes and textures varied between dishes, and many plates included several sauces to build an orchestrated flavor for the plate. I did not see any component repeated throughout the evening.
The wines were all well paired, and served as a compliment to the plate rather than a separate course or cocktail-like service which I’m honestly more accustomed to. They were subtle and varied from a good and amusing pairing (a Lambrusco with the chocolate plate) to striking a clear and contrasting note on its own.
We came away stimulated, satisfied (I know some others on Chowhound leave some other tasting menu dining experiences ready for another meal - I’m a big guy and that was not the case for me here), and felt lucky in a new discovery. This was an experience, as much as theater, a musical performance, or a movie.
I would highly recommend The Tasting Counter to a couple or quartet interested in a dining experience. Given the seating and focus on the food I’m not sure how it would work for a larger group. The web site mentions late night and private dining options as well.
