Taqueria Sabor Mixteco in Wheaton - Report

Eleven HOs got together to try out the menu at this Oaxacan place which has been written up in the Washington Post and gets good recommendations in general.

We ordered:

Tlayuda

Sopes

Mole Mixteco

Camarones en Salsa Pasilla (not pictured)

Tasajo (iron plate)

Enchilada de carne (iron plate)

Pancita (tripe and cow foot soup)

Alambre

Bistec a la Mexicana

I doubt I’d be tempted to return, but if there is gold here, it is probably among the“Oaxacan Platters’” on the menu, served on iron plates. These were very good.

We got the tlayudas with campechano and the alambre with suadareo, and the sopes with chorizo, but it didn’t really matter as the cheese stopped me from tasting anything else.

The black mole was ok. I would have preferred the complexity of a mole poblano like at Taqueria El Mexicano. The cow foot soup was very rich and oily and simple tasting.

RIght around the corner is one of my areas faves, EL Chante y Fritanga Nica, a Nicaraguan restaurant that puts a lot more care into everything, so I’d go back there before returning here.

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I want to start by thanking Steve for arranging this outing. The amount of effort he puts into scoping out interesting places is impressive and appreciated.

My apologies for my bad photos (which are in Steve’s review), but in my defense the table was so cluttered and cramped, I had to crop them mercilessly and take a lot of long distance photos.

Which brings me to my bottom line about this restaurant – it’s not best enjoyed in a “sharing” outing. They were kind of overwhelmed by a group of 11. I suspect it would be much better if you went with a smaller group and everyone just had their own entree. Some of the dishes were too small to share among 11 people and some dishes never made it to our end of the long table or arrived with only a small bite or two left (and I’m sure the same is true for the other end of the table). That’s on the restaurant, which should have made sure that for the smaller dishes we ordered two (which they did for the tlayuda and pancita, but mostly because Steve and Jim Z cross-examined the waiter to make sure).

I also was not able to taste many of the dishes because they were covered with goopy cheese (lactose intolerant). I seriously doubt that if you go to Oaxaca, you would get very many dishes covered with goopy cheese. I guess you could consider it an experiment in Tex-Mex/Oaxacan fusion, but if so I’d say that was an ill-advised experiment.

From what I did taste, the two clear winners were the pancita (cow foot soup), which had some real zing to it and a nice mix of textures with cow foot, tripe, and shinbone meat, and the bottle of morita chile sauce on the table. That was maybe the smokiest hot sauce I’ve ever had and I managed to consume about half a bottle all by myself.

I also enjoyed the chicken mole quite a bit. I thought it was complex and interesting, though, like a lot of moles, it was a bit too sweet for my Americanized tastes.

I did try to pick around the goopy cheese in the tlayuda and found that without the layer of liquified cheese the beef was pretty dry and stringy.

I passed on the alambre and sopes as being hopelessly cheesy. The tasajo and the enchilada de carne were enjoyable grilled dishes, but not all that distinguishable from fajitas at a Tex-Mex place with a good kitchen.

I don’t have even the vaguest memory of the camarones en salsa picilla and apparently did not even see it (thus, no photo).

I thought the place was interesting and had a lot of potential. I’m definitely planning to go back at some point with Toni for a two-person meal, which I suspect will show the restaurant in a better light.

And I’ve already starting researching how to make my own chile morita sauce at home.

Oh, and the hibiscus agua fresca was way too sweet, but again that’s my American taste buds.

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Many thanks to Steve for herding cats!

After getting the spiel from the owner trying his sincere best to steer us toward the menu items highlighted in a 2024 review by a soon-to-depart local food critic, I was happy at the outset that we went rogue. In hindsight, I rather wish we’d at least sampled some tacos.

Steve is right (as usual) … this place will likely not be in my rotation either. I did find my slice of the tlayudas quite tasty, and it was one of the more shareable dishes.

The bowl of tripe and cow’s foot in a warming vegetable-free broth was indeed a standout, but there was precious little tripe, and unless I somehow missed it, no cow’s foot. (I was expecting sections of cross-cut heel like in Caribbean cow’s foot soup, and we got a single knuckle - close enough?) In any event, it was good to be among adventurous eaters who joined me in sampling it.

The chicken leg quarter in mole sauce did not skimp on sauce, I will say that.

Corn tortillas were delicious, as was the smoky sauce that was one of a trio of sauce bottles on the table.

The decor is bright and lively, service attentive, and the owners are sincerely making an effort. However, in a retail area of Wheaton chock-full of tasty lunch options, this taqueria has some fierce competition.

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Thanks for signing up, Crackers. ! I did neglect to mention the excellent tortillas here, so thanks for taking note.

For everything we ordered I kept on thinking of better versions I’ve had elsewhere.

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