Taipei Autumn ‘24

[Google_Gourmet]

Final six days of this trip in Taipei, rooming in the Da’an district. Stopped at a rest area midpoint between Kaohsiung and Taipei. MO’s Burger, fresh made Dumplings, Bakery Goods and more available.

We hit the 7/11. My Egg Salad Sando was ok, not unreasonable enough to expect Japanese konbini quality. Oden, same low bar. Sufficient to sustain us for the rest of the ride. (enuff said)

Checked into our favorite Taipei hotel, freshened up, then down to Social Hour.

The host was pouring a nice Chilean wine, Tocornal Merlot. Some beautiful Canapé made the rounds. The Tomato Ricotta Crostini especially tasty and lovely.

Original plan was for a glass of wine and a couple (only a couple) of tiny bites, then to my favorite 100$NT (usd$3.10/dish) stir fry restaurant for dinner. Not to be.

Change in plans. Da’an has morphed over the years, from an upscale residential area into a vibrant restaurant and shopping scene. We decided to just forage and grab whatever goodies looked good and leisurely munch back in our room.

Even the been there FOREVER hole-in-wall dumpling stand now sports cute modern signage. Not really quite convinced this is a good thing.

I’ve been craving Fried Chicken and passed this shop. Turns out that FAT DADDY is a popular Taiwan Chain, and has stores worldwide including the States. I just wanted a couple pieces of dark meat and fries. Wife had to have Gee Pi, the face-sized Taiwan Chicken Cutlet. My pieces were great, flavorful, crisp and juicy. Gee Pi was also good, just not as good.

I’ve been forced to suffer the tremendous queue at Ay-Chung Flour-Rice Noodle at their OG location in the Wanhua District a few times over the years. Fortunately for me, they had opened a satellite store right by our hotel, tiny lines!!

Ay-Chung sells rice noodles, only rice noodles. Thin Rice Noodles with salty Pork Intestines in a gloopy thick vinegary broth. Took me some time (10+ years) to get it, now I sorta understand the appeal.

Called an early night. Breakfast at the Tavernist, the hotel restaurant, should be good.

[Peech (Peter Chang)]

Love Ay-Chung. The person with the ladle is so efficient and quick.

[Google_Gourmet]

Masters at work, they crank them out lightning speed. The original Wanhua location is a well oiled machine. Happy slurpers all over. Pics from a visit in 2020.

My wife followed up last night’s tub with a second round from the Da’an satellite store, after her hair appointment this morning.

This after a healthy hotel breakfast a mere few hours earlier.

[Google_Gourmet]

Reacquainted ourselves with Taipei today, so much going on!!!

https://maps.app.goo.gl/vt1tJ2XtVUFpdwE29

We browsed through the luxe Far Eastern department store, their food possibilities are awesome. Very attractively laid out and pleasant to explore on many levels.

We had been to Song Fa in the original New Bridge road and the Orchard road locations and enjoyed them. Bak Kut Teh Singaporean Pork Rib Tea is a national treasure. We eagerly took this opportunity to have their Bak Kut Teh for an early dinner.

Their great Pork Kidney and Pork Liver were not offered here, so we simply ordered the Double Set Meal. The Pork Rib and Slices were every bit as good as in Singapore. The servers were especially diligent about keeping our soup bowls topped off with their signature peppery and porky TEA.

We had at least four bone broth refills each. The accompanying sides complemented the porky goodness well.

YouTiao with Shrimp and Cuttlefish Paste was light and crispy, with a seafood flavor that did not overwhelm.

The chilled Buckwheat Cassia Seed ice tea was a nice change from the usual alcoholic beverage. All in all a nice meal.

For Bak Kut Teh fans, highly recommend!!

[Google_Gourmet]

The BEST Pineapple Cake in Taiwan, thus the world.

Longest queue in the world for same.

You can’t buy just ONE!!!

[sck]

So how many did you buy?

[Google_Gourmet]

Most of the haul already packed with the rest of the stuff in the box. Sending direct to our nieces in Little Rock.

Waited 1 hour in queue. Line was shorter today cause of the drizzle.

Saved a little for me and friends and neighbors.

[Google_Gourmet]

Had a great meal earlier this year at a Shanghai restaurant here, eager to enjoy again. Sadly, the restaurant had closed due to some issues with their neighbors.

No worries, found a backup.

https://maps.app.goo.gl/kTXSYXD2CnD3QxZS9

BYOB: KaVaLan Brandy Cask Solist. Very smooth Taiwan homegrown Single Malt

Meal started well with our preordered Pork Kidney. Very tasty.

Also preordered a special Pork Spareribs dish, not as successful.

Pork Belly Bao was a well done version, pork belly is almost always good.

Dou Miu, Pea Shoots were excellent. We don’t order often, so darn pricey back home. Not exactly cheap here, but we had guests.

Shanghai Sweet n’ Sour Chicken, another miss. I had to ask my wife what the dish was, couldn’t tell visually or even after a few bites!?!?

Shanghai Salted and Fresh Pork Soup, my special request!! Yan Du Xian Soup.

Great umami with the salted and fresh pork, tofu skin knots, bamboo shoots, pickled mustard and more. A clear simple flavor bomb. LOVE it, probably having it again tonight.

Shanghai Vegetable Rice. Very good.

A traditional Sweet Fermented Rice (tang yuan) with Egg Drop Soup. New to me, not to die for.

Stinky Tofu, had my compulsory bite to appease da wife. An acquired taste I’ve yet to acquire.

Peanut Mochi, would have had more than a single ball if I weren’t already stuffed to the gills.

Passed on the obligatory Orange slices.

Dinner at the previous Shanghai restaurant had set the bar very high, even this Michellin favored restaurant couldn’t quite follow. We had also just spent 3 weeks in/around Shanghai and being absolutely WOWED by just about every meal.

No to be deterred, we have reservations at another Shanghai place this evening. Hoping for the best!

[Peech (Peter Chang)]

I was buying boxes and boxes of ChiaTe in the late 90s and early 2000s but stopped when Sunnyhills became popular. ChiaTe - like the majority of bakeries - was using candied winter melon as their filling and not actually pineapple. I loved their fruit flavors like musk melon, strawberries… etc. But once Sunnyhills started the revival of using real pineapple for the filling (to support pineapple farmers who couldn’t sell their harvest) I decided to switch and never really went back.

[Peech (Peter Chang)]

Oh Rong Rong Yuan is old school!
Yan Du Xian is one of my favorite soups. So much so that wifey started to make it at home this year once she found a source for the ingredients. Fresh and salted pork belly in a milky soup is always good.

Pea shoots in Taiwan are usually disappointing for those of us who are spoiled by HK. The cultivar seems a little different somehow, and no one will pay the high price that is required to pick just the tips of the shoots while very young… so you only see “grown up” pea shoots that are nowhere as tender and tasty as what you find in HK. But I’m sure you’re just happy to get them if you have difficulty finding them back home.

A little sad that you passed on the oranges… those are Taiwanese liu ding 柳丁 which seems to grow only on the island and I can’t find them anywhere else. My favorite type of orange for their unique flavor and fragrance.

[Google_Gourmet]

@Peech

… those are Taiwanese liu ding 柳丁 which seems to grow only on the island and I can’t find them anywhere else. My favorite type of orange for their unique flavor and fragrance.

Taken under advisement. I did really enjoy oranges almost daily in Kaohsiung. Rarely eat oranges back home, homegrown stateside don’t excite.

Come to think of it, the dou miu could’ve been younger and more tender. Hadn’t had any in recent memory, so this was very good to me. It is available often in SF.

[Google_Gourmet]

Our second Taipei breakfast again in the hotel. We both went the Asian route, Congee with Poached Egg, Katsuobushi (bonito flakes) and Nori.

If/when we do the complimentary breakfast again, will definitely stay on the western side. The full English breakfast should be better.

We had Taiwanese breakfast the next morning, so good and comforting.

Sweetened Soy Milk and a Chilled Black Tea. Satisfying simplicity.

Salty Soy Milk, a Taiwanese breakfast staple.

Sesame Flatbread Egg Sando. Hits the spot.

Dumplings, fresh grandma made.

Breakfast for two, five bucks and change.

[Google_Gourmet]

We enjoyed our Peking Duck dinner earlier this year at Chiou Hwa Chun Place. So much so that we gathered up a couple friends to do it again.

https://maps.app.goo.gl/vErTMq1DUjJtHcvf9?g_st=com.google.maps.preview.copy

The menu presented some very interesting dishes I would love to try, but we chose the Whole Duck Feast for 4 People. We had ordered the same on our previous visit, and had no trepidation about repeating our first experience. We did add a couple of new sides for variation.

Braised Duck Plucks.

Flavors reminiscent of what my wife have been loving from her favorite street venders. Authentic kicked up a notch.

Fried King Oyster Mushrooms with Salted Egg Yolk

Loved this before, loving it again.

Sliced Peking Duck Skin in Wheat Wrap with Popping Candy

In Beijing, Peking Duck is often served with granulated sugar for dipping. I thought this weird at first, learned to like quickly.

The carver and captain built the first one table side.

Let the good times roll!!

Chopped Roasted Peking Duck Platter

The BEST Peking Duck meat ever. The duck meat itself can sometimes be a dry afterthought in some restaurants. The meat here was flavorful and MEDIUM RARE, pinkish as a good Muscovy Duck breast.

Our duck was cooked three ways. The third cook:

Stir Fried Seafood and Duck Meat in Casserole

Another well cheffed dish. I always love Egg Tofu and this was very tasty.

Braised Pigweed with Deep Fried Whitebait & Yuba

Sound delicious, or not? “Pigweed” is local name for a green that was disdained as hog chow. “Whitebait” is the fry of sardines, anchovies or the like. Glad to see less than glamorous ingredients offered in a an upscale acceptable presentation.

Dish was delicious by the way, the crispy crunchy fried fish a nice counterpoint to the tender greens and soft tuba.

Lettuce Wrap with Shreddded Duck Meat and Water Chestnuts

Always a refreshing reset.

Shredded Duck with Preserved Egg Porridge

Tasty, traditional ending to a Duck feast.

Handmade Duck Yolk Pudding

Being Taiwanese, our guests knew to immediately post an online review and get the the gratuitous comped dessert. Delicious!!!

Our captain knew we were repeat diners. She advised us the chef is very talented and we may wish to explore beyond the duck next. Oh yeah, there WILL be a next time!!!

[Saregama]

I am bursting from my dinner and still want to launch into the screen. Yum.

[Peech (Peter Chang)]

My friend’s family owns the hotel group that this restaurant is part of, and in fact he is now running the business. I’ll let him know you are enjoying the food there!

[Google_Gourmet]

The food was excellent.

The staff really made the experience. The pacing of this meal was perfect.

The various staff were always dicreetly watching our progress and timed each course perfectly. Apple, our captain deserves a shoutout. She had taken care of us well before and is a credit to any institution.

Sad that RAW closed before we could secure reservations.

[Peech (Peter Chang)]

I sent this thread to my friend and he replied that they purposely tried not to push prices up by using fancy ingredients, and instead focus on cooking techniques and good flavors.

I know that RAW is on the list of many people who’ve never tried it, but I’ve made 5 visits between 2015 and 2018 and each visit was worse than the last. The last visit in Nov 2018 was made with a globe-trotting foodie as well as the chef of a famous restaurant in Taipei, and we all agreed that the dessert was the best dish of the meal. I never wanted to go back after that. Feedback from local friends was that the food didn’t improve in the years after my last visit, although for the “Last Dance” period just before closing end of this year, it did get tastier.

[GretchenS]

Completely amazing pictures and descriptions. Thank you!

[Google_Gourmet]

Coming to the end of our 3 week trip in Taiwan. A delightful visit, already looking forward to the next. Sad to be leaving, also ready to be home to relax in my own space.

Picked up breakfast from the hotel restaurant and planned to have a last meal on the balcony. It’s still in the 80°s in November (!?!?!), took a few snaps and retreated back to eat and drink in the cool comfort of our room.

Shaobing with Spring Onion/Truffle Eggs

Meat Lovers’ Taiwanese Omelette: A Jianbing with Bacon and Sausage. Not an improvement from the ones we love off the carts in the street.

The Tavernist does a great complete job of packing the takeout.

Good Ha Gow and Siu Mai. Coulda had a full meal of just these.

Taiwan is a much under appreciated food and travel destination, in my opinion. I’ll post more photos after I catch up some back home.

[Google_Gourmet]

Woke up to a TORNADO warning this saturday morning, in San Francisco!?!? Sheltering in place, good time to catch up on some good eats from our recent Taiwan trip.

Taiwan does not immediately come to mind as a Japanese food destination. Taiwan was part of the Japan empire before WWII, so really no surprise that sushi and Japanese cuisine is common and very good.

We had lunch at a Japanese restaurant close to our Da’an hotel

https://maps.app.goo.gl/tC5PC1wgESp3TiFQ9

Modern Japanese style Sushi restaurant with a beautiful sushi bar, most of the diners seem to be upper level management types treating themselves (or business associates) to a nice lunch.

This was our final lunch in Taipei, so we pampered ourselves more than usual. Ordered a couple of sets, plus a few must eat items.

Ankimo, Foie Gras of the Sea (Monkfish Liver). Crab Butter and picked Crab on greens. Chawanmushi with Uni, Ikura and Crab Morsels. Miso Soup. Nice starters.

Pristine, Fresh Sashimi. My minor quibble at some Taiwan Sushi joints is the Taiwan style means huge slabs (3 biters) of fish. I like my sashimi bite size. These were perfect bites, for me. (and fresh grated Wasabi!!!)

I’m not a sushi roll aficionado, this Ebi Roll was very good. Crisp Nori around fresh Shrimp and some snappy crisp vegetation.

Tuna Sashimi and Tuna Scrapes. Saba Oshizushi (Mackeral pressed Sushi) and an Inari Sushi (Tofu Purse).

Some of the best Nigiri ever. Almost every bite was a stop and savor moment.

Wife’s Chawanmushi with Mushrooms, Mochi Ball dusted with Peanut Powder.

French Vanilla and Hot Green Tea to finish.

Apparently, Umegaoka Sushi no Midori is part of a restaurant group from Japan. We had passed by their stores in Japan before, but prices were quite expensive for everyday eats. Since this was our last lunch in Taiwan, I’m glad we splurged. Well worth the price of entry.