https://guide.michelin.com/vn/en/ha-noi/ha-noi_2974158/restaurant/tam-vi
I’ve been in Hanoi for work and the only thing special I organised dining-wise was booking dinner at Tam Vi, which has held 1 Michelin star for the past 3 years. It was relatively easy to arrange the booking via email and they emailed me a copy of the menu. The positives - I’m only around 10 pounds out of pocket, the decor is interesting and the food was fine. The negatives? Read on to find out.
Early impression was promising:
Unfortunately, it went downhill from there. As soon as I arrived and went to the host stand, there was a small rush of people queueing for a table. The host stand was staffed by a group of young people who looked like they were around 12 years old and acted like that too. They ignored me (small, middle-aged Asian woman on her own) and addressed the white tourists who were lined up behind me. The second time they ignored me to speak to a white person who didn’t have a reservation, I tapped one of the 12 year olds on the shoulder and said that I did have a reservation. That caused utter confusion - lots of consulting a piece of paper before someone who looked a bit older told me to follow one of the 12 year olds. Said young person promptly dashed off leaving me to sprint behind him - he went to a neighbouring building and disappeared up a flight of stairs. I eventually found a dining room where another young person pointed at a table. This was a table big enough to seat six, awkwardly shaped like a huge desk with sharp corners and nowhere to rest my legs comfortably, with hard benches to sit on.
Table was sparsely set with a couple of bowls and plates and a communal holder with chopsticks and spoons and a dispenser with paper napkins.
A bit of old-fashioned decor:
I had already looked at the menu so I knew what I wanted to order but I sat there for awhile and none of the wait staff came to check on me. I eventually flagged down a server and ordered. He said it would be too much for one person so I pared it down. He returned after a bit with my mulberry juice drink (no alcohol served).
This was just ok. Not enough ice for the lukewarm juice. The small amount of ice melted quickly and the drink was still not cold. When I finished the drink I saw the glass was from IKEA.
I don’t have anything against IKEA but wonder if the Michelin inspectors had clocked the glassware.
The food arrived quickly.
Minced pork in betel leaves, brown rice with black beans.
Fried tofu in green onion sauce. It was all fine, nothing special in taste or presentation. I’ve had much better food and service in non-Michelin-star establishments in Hanoi.
What I was pretty bemused by, was that 2 of the serving bowls were noticeably chipped.
I don’t know if this was their idea of being super rustic.
The table next to me left with most of their food uneaten. They also had chipped crockery.
The air-conditioning was not working very well. There was only an ancient stand fan in the room which was pointed at the other table which was now empty.
No serving staff came to check on me during my meal. I would have had to get up and adjust the fan myself. I briefly contemplated just leaving, to see if that would galvanise the staff into action. In the end I flagged down a server again and asked for the bill. It is expensive for what it is, but not by European standards. In fact, it is all over social media as the cheapest Michelin starred meal in the world.
As I left, a young server came dashing up the steps and nearly knocked me over as I was coming down.
I wonder how this place got a star 3 years in a row. The service is laughable, the food is so-so, the seating is uncomfortable and the glassware, crockery and cutlery are cheap and chipped.
