Sunrise Cuisine - One of Many Great Haitian Restaurants (Malden, MA)

As a percentage of the state’s total, MA has the second biggest Haitian population in the country (FL is first by a mile). It’s no wonder that there is a bounty of excellent Haitian eateries here. I’m barely at the start of my journey to explore them all, but ready to get the documentation of the journey started.

Haitian food is very diverse and I’m not going to pretend I’m qualified to deliver a primer. But I will say this: Haitians know poultry. If you want a cuisine where every part of the bird is used and every morsel of flavor is extracted, you’re not going to beat Haitian.

Case in point: the Turkey in Sauce at Sunrise Cuisine. I love dishes with names like this, where what sounds mundane and boring is actually something highly involved and complex. A lengthy marinade in a cornucopia of ingredients with sour orange at the forefront, multiple cooking stages that go from dry heat to wet heat and then back again, creating an end product with texture that’s simultaneously fall-off-the-bone tender, and near jerky-like stiff in parts. All the rich poultry juices get incorporated into the marinade ingredients and the bird is served with plenty of that ridiculously intoxicating liquid.

And here’s the thing Haitian cooks do better than any others I know: butcher and serve turkey bones to expose gorgeous, easily scoopable marrow. That marrow scooped onto rice and beans is death-row-meal-good.

Sunrise Cuisine is in the Malden shopping mall with Mulu Ethiopian Restaurant. For now, map yourself to Mulu, because Google has the Sunrise address wrong.


Mouth-watering review, thanks!

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I have yet to find a restaurant where the Griot/Fried Pork isn’t overcooked and dry. I’ll give this location a try even if their Someville location served the griot very dry.

I had a great meal at Highland Kitchen 20 years ago, acting on a tip from a taxi driver, probably my first dip into Haitian food. I have a short list of Haitian places to get to / get back to, but the pandemic ended a few of them, like Pin Bochinche in Egleston Square.

I still think fondly of the griyo at Griyo Lakay near Franklin Park. NU recently put the archives of the Boston Phoenix back online. Here’s my review of it, from 2010: RIP, Camie’s Bakery & Restaurant in Cambridge, too.

Great tip on turkey marrow, never tried that!


Tried them for lunch today. Not a very attractive place. The TV was on full blast, couldn’t talk to the person behind the counter. Sat down, and checked out the menu, TV was still on full blast despite asking for it to be turned down. Left.

The Neighborhood Kitchen looks good, has anyone been?

Attractiveness is in the eye of the beholder, of course. I found the place nicely appointed and very comfortable. The TV was indeed loud though. I did have to ask the very warm and friendly person at the counter to repeat herself a couple of times.