I just booked week’s solo trip to Parisin November, with a stay at the 34B hotel in the 9th. I was last in Paris in February of 2020 with my husband. We usually stay in the 3rd and I’m more familiar with the 3rd, 11th and 12th. So, I’m looking for suggestions in the 9th.
On our last trips, we enjoyed Pianovins, Picotte, Le MaZenay, Capitaine, and Pierre Sang Oberkampf if that helps. I also enjoy Thai, Indian, and Chinese food. I am not vegetarian, but I do like veg forward meals here and there to balance things out. I love a good cheese course and would like to expand my horizons with offal, too. Amarante was on our list for 2020 but we didn’t quite make it.
I do want to return to Pianovins. My husband and I spent our 10th anniversary there. Eric was so lovely, as was our server, Victoire. I have often wondered if she is still there.
Anyway, I welcome your suggestions. Thank you so much!
Given your preferences, I’d suggest the following: CODA, Jeanne-Aimée, Perception, Pétrelle, Richer. Just over the border in the 10th, 52 rue du Faubourg St-Denis, eels, Chocho, and a little further down the street from Chocho in the 10th, Dante. But your visit is six months off, so there will be a whole new set of restaurants opening in the ensuing time.
Onzieme, thanks for those suggestions; I’ll check them out. And thank you for reminding me that the Paris food scene is subject to change. I forget how dynamic it is there.
Willette on rue Trévise… not spectacular life-altering cuisine but just a great value neighbourhood resto (bistronomie, not trad) and a fab vibe… ever-changing and very seasonal menu… tight seating and, if outside on the terrace, you may have to share a table.
Brigade du Tigre on rue du Faubourg Poissonnière/ 10th for excellent pan-Asian cooked by French chefs.
Racines in the Passage des Panoramas/ 2nd… a Michelin 1-star, updated Sardinian/ Italian with French twists (i.e. not your nonna’s cooking).
BTW, there are several other good eating places in the Passage des Panoramas (Canard & Champagne, Astair, Adar, etc), … again, not life changing food but good enough for a very enjoyable meal in a great setting)
I second all the suggestions onzième and Daniel have come up with, and, although I haven’t been to Perception and Petrelle yet, they’re on our list for later this year.
Sadly, Victoire is no longer at Pianovins, which we still love and visit once or twice during our stay in Paris. Their menu is posted on their website each week, so it’s worth checking out in advance. (I’m still trying to work out where Victoire has gone to. I know she moved to the south of France during Covid, but she was back in Paris in 2020. She is indeed special).
Thank you for the additional recommendations, Daniel. And Carole, thank you for letting me know that Victoire has moved on. I hope she’s well.
It may seem strange that I would remember her after just one meal but i had received some sad news that day and while she had no idea of it, she (and Eric) managed to be just what I needed that night. I’ve thought of that evening often.
I echo the recommendations for Petrelle and Perception having eaten there in March. Had hoped to get to Jeanne-Aimee too but will do when back in December. I definitely will revisit both Perception and Petrelle as they were that special. May add Parcelles to the P’s in Paris. Enjoy!
I just thought of a few favorites in the 9th that I forgot to mention, added to the ones above:
Aspic at 24 rue Louise-Emilie de la Tour d’Auvergne. The chef got his first star a couple of years ago. Our dinner there last year was cancelled due to a Covid case in the kitchen.
Buvette at 28 rue Henry Monnier. A must for lunch. Brunch on weekends are “walk-ins only”.
Belle Maison at 4 rue de Navarin. One of my favorite seafood places in the 9th.
Caillebotte at 8 rue Hippolyte Lebas. Casual lunches and dinners. Chef has a light touch.
Juste at 48 rue Lafitte. Another seafood spot. Very casual. No reservations.
Les Canailles Pigalle at 25 rue la Bruyère. Check small menu online. It changes frequently.
Victoire was/is indeed special. She enveloped us in concern that we enjoy every bite and moment without ever being intrusive. Just 100% observant and professional. Were that she could be cloned.
Thank you for all the additional responses. Going back to some of my notes from 2020, I realized I’d already book marked a few of these places. I look forward to firming up my choices as my trip nears!
I’ll be sure to report back, although I’m nowhere near as eloquent as the rest of you.
