Suggestion for Bilbao and Barcelona Nov 30- Dec 4

Regional Dining Discussions Italy, Spain, Portugal
1

We are back for our annual trip to Spain, and will be spending 2 night in Bilbao and 3 night in Barcelona
Hope other especially Maribel could shed some light on which one to pick for the undecided dayOur

current itinerary for Bilbao

  1. Day 1 dinner-- Mina or Garone or Asador Horma Ondo or Zaratea
  2. Day 2 lunch-- Etxebarri
  3. Day 2 dinner— Aitor Raluega or Asador Taska or La Dispensa Etxanobe or La Vina de Abelardo or Los Fueros ( we prefer something light and can order a la carte)

Our current itinerary for Barcelona
Day 1 lunch-- Al kostat or Pur
Day 1 dinner–Gresca
Day 2 lunch-- Disfrutar
Day 2 dinner-- Estimar or Succulent
Day 3 lunch- Els Casals or Can Jubany
Day 3 dinner- Mont Bar or Aurt

Thank in advance

2

In Barcelona this year, we found Gresca has gone more downscale - more bar than finer dining. We preferred the prior version.
And Mont Bar has definitely gone more upscale and ‘finer dining’ - and is still on our ‘must’ list. Also much more difficult to get a reservation - all indoor seating was booked over a month ahead.

3

I’ve been to both Can Jubany and Els Casals many times. If you are thinking about a tasting menu, I would suggest Jubany.

however, I often prefer the roasted meat or fish dishes for 2 a la carte with a few half portions of entrantes to begin the meal at Els Casals. Over the years we have enjoyed Guinea fowl with langostines (pic below), roast whole duck with pears, roast baby goat, their own poulard stuffed with butifarra and apples etc. the Nov-Dec time period often brings game meats to the menu.

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4

I made a reservation for Mont Bar on October 4 for November 26, and the only time available was 9:45 p.m. I took it, but am seconding what @Estufarian is saying about difficult reservations.

My one comment on OP’s itinerary is one I am also struggling with, as I am only going to be in Barcelona for five nights this trip, is how to be able to eat everything on my plates. Guessing you are taking this into account! I’ve tried to solve by planning less/lighter at lunch, and not eating every meal a sit-down formal choice, but trying to lighten it up with some tapas lunches.

5

The entry for 2 looks huge, portion aside, which one have the better ingredient quality and taste ( Can Jubany or Els Casals.

We are not big meat eater as we prefer vegetables and seafood over meat, should we still do Els Casals or Can Jubany

6

We actually prefer the Gresca downscale version than the upscale version at Mont Bar, we have been to both many times

7

I can’t say that one or the other has better quality of ingredients as they are both excellent.
The dishes for 2 at Els Casals are more focused on meats that they raise on their farm. However many are seafood focused. They also should have excellent wild mushroom dishes in late Nov-Dec.

Can Jubany tasting menus will include several meats in the course but perhaps in smaller amounts. You could contact either place and ask for a more seafood-fish oriented menu.

8

My daughter and I had a fabulous experience at Azurmendi in April. Its $$$ and very theatrical, which isn’t everyones cup of tea, but a memorable (and delicious) experience.

9

Thanks for the recommendation, but we had dined at Azurmendi and Nerua before, and we were disappointed to say the least

10

Dear tigerjohn

Have you tried Garena ? Do you recommend it over Mina.

11

We have tried Garena, though only once. We thought it was mostly show and didn’t deliver on the expected quality given the price point. Also, they don’t have a wine pairing but they suggested they could put one together. We were charged what we felt was an exhorbitant amount for what we got.

Regarding Mina, we recommend the counter, which is not common in spain but which will allow you to interact with the team. Of our 3 meals at Mina, two were excellent sandwiched around a heavy and less interesting experience. the wine pairing offers intersting small producers from Basque country and the Basque area of rioja and is recommended.

To be honest I would not bother with a taxi or driving to Garena vs. Mina if you are staying in Bilbao. I would pick a place in Bilbao (you might consider Porrue as it is pure product with heavy grill emphasis).

My view of Azurmendi and Nerua might be similar to yours. Given the qualty of products in spain at typical restaurants, the creativity presented and the execution does not live up to the prices being charged.

12

I agree with tigerjohn about not bothering with the longish drive to Dima for GARENA. If staying in Bilbao, if you prefer seafood over meat, I would book at PORRUE.
I would go to MINA if guaranteed two seats at the counter, where all the action happens.

Or if you’re hankering to get to the countryside, you have HORMA ONDO in a beautiful setting atop a hill high above Azurmendi in Larrabetzu, not a far drive. It’s one of the Basque grill temples, both for txuleta and for wild caught fish, manned by a female English chef, Janye Hardcastle (her husband is the co owner). It’s where I met my hero, José Andrés, who drove all the way up from Echaurren in Ezcaray that day.

ZARATE is another in-town grilled fish option, which of course, doesn’t require a drive to the countryside. Or another fine grill house, PORRUE, a temple of “producto puro y duro”

I just sat through a very intellectual presentation by Eneko Atxa of Azurmendi of catching and reproducing distinct aromas at SS Gastronomika, and I believe it’s the type of dining experience you either enjoy thoroughly (yes, theatrical) or dislike intensely.

If you want something light for day 2 dinner, LOS FUEROS in the Casco Viejo would fit the bill and you can certainly order a la carte, with small dishes. The chef, Paúl Ibarra, hails from Etxanobe.
Aitor Rauleaga or La Despensa de Etxanobe wouldn’t be “light”.

For ETXBARRI, major kudos to you for securing that highly coveted reservation.
A Madrid chef friend and his 9 other foodie/chef friends went last Sunday (12 bottles chosen by Mohammed), and my SS friend dined with a group, including Sacha, last week right before SS Gastronomika, and I envied them all.
We went this summer for the Sunday morning pintxos/cazuelas at the bar starting at 11 am, but that format will soon change in order to control the crowds a bit more.
There couldn’t be a more beautiful, peaceful setting than Axpe.

1 Like
13

Dear Maribel

Thanks for the information about Garena and Mina. We are staying at the new Palazzo Arriluce at Getxo, so will be renting a car, hence driving is not a issue.

We don’t mind theatrical restaurant, but Azzurmendi just doesn’t live up when you compare to the living table at Disfrutar ( which is really special), more importantly the food was meh.

For Mina, is the menu different if sitting at the chef counter versus at the regular table beside seeing the action in the kitchen?

Will it be redundant to dine at Asador Horma Ondo if we are doing Etxebarri as well? It’s indeed getting harder to secure Extebarri , especially after the got move up to N0 2 word best restaurant list. t

What is your take on Els casals vs Can Jubany , I wish we could do both but we didn’t have enough time this year?

For Barcelona, what is your take on the following restaurant

  1. Al kostat ( been there twice) vs Pur ( never been)
  2. Estimar ( been many times our staples in barcelona for seafood ) vs succulent ( never been)
  3. Mont bar( been many times, but I think the format is changing this year , more focused on tasting menu) vs Aurt (never been)

Looking forward to your guidance

14

Hi silverlim,
About Els Casals vs Can Jubany, I completely defer to tigerjohn, as he has been recently. If Estimar is your staple for seafood, I would certainly keep that reservation.

The menu at Mina is the same degustation menu (14 dishes or 10 dishes); it’s simply that sitting at the counter allows one to see first hand the preparation and for many is more “fun”.

Tigerjohn, I believe, has been to Mina 3 times, with one disappointment, I think, and the 3rd time excellent (I just read his post on a long thread, “Which 3 star-Mugaritz, Arkelare (sic) or Martin Berasategui?”)
Mikey8811 on that same thread, had a different take but enjoyed the desserts.
Tigerjohn can give you a better take on Mina.

Since you’re staying at the beautiful Palacio Arriluce in Getxo, not to confuse the issue, but…
those who stay there may want to visit neighboring Portugalete and the restaurante of the Gran Hotel Puente Colgante, “El Paladar”, where female chef Zuriñe García, formerly of Andra Mari in Galdakao, has been receiving some fine reviews. But she offers 2 tasting menus only.

But never mind…Horma Ondo is strictly a countryside, more “humble” in a way, traditional grill restaurant, one of Vizcaya’s best asadors, for both wild fish and for meats, so in a certain sense a visit there AND to the other great asador, Etxebarri would be redundant.
Horma Ondo is far, far easier to reserve since it hasn’t received the immense international claim and status as “the world’s second best restaurant” from San Pellegrino.

Zárate in Bilbao is more fish focused than meats, if that’s your preference. This chef from the fishing village of Lekeitio has always been known for his superb grilled fish preparations straight from the piers of Lekeitio and Ondarroa. Here you have the option of a la carte or tasting menu.

Aurt is counter dining in the Hotel Hilton Diagonal Mar, space for 20 diners grouped around 3 counters for “show cooking”. Tasting menu only.

You can see the reviews of all your Barcelona choices in the Macarfi guide for Barcelona-

15

For Barcelona, Pur is a Nandu Jubany place. It’s good but I prefer the original. We have enjoyed the seemingly simple but excellently prepared dishes at Succulent.