Eating at the Pipe & Glass, with an overnight stay in one of their “garden rooms” , was a birthday treat. It’s more than a two hour drive from home so definitely needed to be a special occasion. We picked it because of its Michelin star and its “proper” menu – we’re not great fans of long no-choice tasting menus, which seems to be the style of most Michelin places these days. We checked in mid-afternoon and found the room really well appointed, with very comfy kingsize bed, spacious bathroom and all the bits and bobs you need for an overnight stay. And there’s a private patio with garden beyond. It’s lovely. And there was lots of time for a pre-dinner snooze.
We’d booked a table in the restaurant. The same menu is served throughout the pub, whether you choose to eat in the restaurant, the bar or one of the outside tables. We were asked if we wanted to go straight to our table or have a drink in bar. Drink, then. Which proved to be a bit of a mistake as, although we’d been given menus, no-one came to take orders. That is until we went back to reception to chase someone up who eventually did come. No apology for the long delay but, once we were in the system, there were no further service issues. In fact, the staff were really good – friendly and efficient and, as a couple of them mentioned, have several years experience there.
Both starters came from the “specials” list. A fillet of mackerel just cooked through, accompanied by lightly smoked mackerel pate on toast, with a crunch from shredded vegetables and a twang from pickled gooseberries. And, across the table a “proper prawn cocktail” (their description not mine). It’s an enormous affair, served in a big glass (like you’d have for an ice cream sundae). In the bottom, a salad of lettuce, tomato, avocado, red pepper with a lime dressing, topped with loads of prawns in a superb Marie Rose sauce. And, on the off chance you have a corner to fill, two thick slices of spelt bread and butter.
A halibut main course also came off the “specials”. We can’t recall ever seeing such a large fillet of fish in a restaurant. This theme of generosity seems to run through everything the Pipe & Glass serves. It actually couldn’t be finished even though it was absolutely delicious. There’s also a thick slice of toasted brioche topped with spiced crab and wilted samphire for a bit of crunch. New potatoes are dressed with seaweed flavoured butter. And, served separately, a little jug of crab veloute provided the sauce. Had my partner known how much food there was going to be, she perhaps wouldn’t have ordered the side of braised peas and lettuce.
My main course featured several slices of barbequed lamb rump. Local, of course. And perfectly pink. There’s also a crisp croquette of long cooked lamb belly. And a little tartlet filled with vegetables and Yorkshire Fine Fettle cheese (that’s the Yorkshire feta that can’t be called feta). A nettle and mint puree cuts through the richness and there’s a beer jus for moistness. When I ordered it felt like I needed some spuds – new potatoes from Lincolnshire, dressed with mint butter were some of the best tasting spuds I’ve eaten in quite a while, particularly when dunked in that beer jus. But I really could have shared my partner’s spuds.
There’s more lovely sounding things on the “afters” menu. I settled on a raspberry delice which sat on a thin slice of pistachio cake, the fruitiness enhanced by a raspberry sorbet. And, in with the cheese listings, there’s a savoury – and you don’t often see savouries these days. A very mustardy cheddar rarebit on spelt toast. Way to go!. Good espresso finished the meal.
We had a good night’s sleep and were ready for breakfast in the morning. You have to fill in a request for the night before, so we were committed to our orders. For one of us, granola, kipper and toast. For the other, the Full English – bacon, sausage, black pudding, poached egg, tomato, mushroom and fried bread. It was another generous serving - they were not sending us home hungry.
