Some quick ‘thumbnail’ sketches based on my visit this month (pictures on my camera and can’t upload until I access my home computer).
In order of “my preference”
Cloudstreet
IMO the most satisfying ‘fusion’ (Of Asian and Californian). Ingredients sourced from Malaysia, Japan, Korea, Australia (and more) and prepared with a Californian attitude. Not exactly farm-to-table, but all dishes maintained their freshness. My only criticism - overuse of ‘Kaviar’ in the dishes - didn’t always enhance the dish.
Odette
‘Very’ french - particularly the service which seemed over-choreographed. My overall impression was of the Asian touches being ‘grafted onto the dish’, rather than being an intrinsic part of the dish e.g. a sauce (containing Asian spicing) was added at the table by being poured over what otherwise would have been a ‘French dish’.
Burnt Ends
To be fair, this was AmuseGirl’s favourite meal. Easily the buzziest place we visited. The restaurant buzzes with energy and the food is excellently prepared. And an amazing wine list - wines I’ve never even seen back home (Canada) available in multiple vintages. But the menu is limited, although bizarrely they have a number of ‘secret’ items off the menu (we were alerted by friends before we went). Not sure why the secrecy is merited - how can I advise other friends whether to go when they may not have access to certain offerings? Even more ‘disturbing’ when some of the items on the listed menu weren’t available anyway. So, some misgivings about the ‘operation’ but everything delivered really hit the spot.
Labyrinth
By far the most ‘cultural dissonance’ here. Many (?most) of the dishes were based on cultural moments (e.g. riffs on a childhood favourite dish; dish inspired by Rotiboy roll), which were totally lost on this European-raised individual. Far more interesting ‘intellectually’ than ‘gustatorially’ for me. My western palate didn’t quite match with what I’m sure was the Chef’s intent. Also, it transgressed a particular peev of mine - when advised of a food intolerance 30 days ahead, they didn’t adjust - just skipped the course (in a tasting menu) with no substitute (to be somewhat fair, they did advise me 5 days ahead, and offered to cancel the reservation and refund my deposit - but that offer came too late to realistically find an alternative at short notice).
