[Singapore] George's Katong Laksa, Changi Road

Septuagenarian, George Ng, has been hawking the iconic Singaporean Katong laksa for over half a century now. His father supposedly got his laksa recipe from Ng Juat Swee aka “Janggut” (Malay for “Beard”), the legendary laksa-man who sold the spicy noodle dish, an incarnation of Malaccan Nyonya laksa, in the streets of Katong, Singapore’s Peranakan enclave, back in the 1950s.

Today, George is assisted by his own son, Gerald, who serves his father’s rich, creamy and piquant laksa to a never-ending line of discerning laksa fans.

George Ng still prepares his laksa paste, cooks his laksa paste, and prepares each bowl of laksa himself - one of those old-school hawkers who forever think their “children” are not yet ready to take over.

A typical bowl of Katong laksa: thick rice noodles steeped in a bowl of spicy, creamy rich broth. It gets its sharp flavors from dried shrimps, galangal (blue ginger), lemongrass, cumin, coriander, belacan (fermented shrimp paste), chilis, fresh turmeric and other spices. Coconut milk gives the soup its milky richness.

Garnishes are simple: de-shelled shrimps, strips of fish cake, and blood cockles. A dollop of chili paste would be provided on one side of the bowl, to be stirred in by the diner for an extra chili bite, plus a clump of finely-chopped Vietnamese coriander (known locally by its Malay name: “daun kesum”) or simply “laksa leaves” since its main use amongst Singaporeans is as a garnish for Katong or Nonya laksa.

Super-delish - this place’s rendition really hits the spot, and far & away better than its long-standing rivals around town.

Katong Laksa
307 Changi Road, Singapore
Tel: +65 9023-7360
Opening hours: 8am to 3pm, alternate Tues off. dollop of