[Singapore] Chicken porridge and poached chicken from Rong Ji, Dunman Road

The well-known Rong Ji Chicken Rice & Porridge stall at Dunman Food Centre in Joo Chiat is run by an octogenarian couple who looked like they’ve been doing this forever. I didn’t have a chance to chat with them as the two worked with quiet, clockwork efficiency to serve a seemingly never-ending queue of customers. We were at the food centre for a couple of hours, and there was never a lull moment at their stall.

The old Hainanese couple moved here in 2018 from their earlier perch at Eng Seng kopitiam in Joo Chiat Place (and in Waterloo Street prior to that), clocking up about half a century selling what they do best: perfectly-poached Hainanese-style chicken, served with a choice of chicken rice, or a variety of savoury porridge: pork, chicken or fish-flavoured.

We opted for chicken porridge this morning, accompanied by a large, sharing platter of poached chicken, and chicken livers.

Each bowl of chicken porridge was topped with a scattering of golden, crisp-fried Chinese crullers or youtiao, called “yew char koay” in local Hokkien parlance. The porridge was served scalding hot here, so be very careful. Customers were also given the option of having a raw egg cracked into the hot porridge, which would instantly cook the egg upon contact. We opted not to have the eggs, so we could taste the original flavour of the chicken porridge.

The addition of the yew char koay gave the porridge a very nice additional textural dimension.

Personally, I thought the porridge tasted much blander than I’d expected. However, the perfectly poached chicken was really good, and the savoury-salty dressing for the chicken was useful to offset the blandness of the rice porridge.

Good breakfast, and we were rather chuffed to be able to catch up with KF Seetoh, the founder of New York’s Urban Hawker again, as he was just back in Singapore from NYC over the weekend.

Whilst Singapore’s younger, more sprightly hawkers have jetted off to New York to promote our street food there, I think more Singaporeans need to realise how lucky we are: to have living heritage treasures like this couple at Dunman Road Food Centre continue to offer such old-world comfort food.

Address
Rong Ji Chicken Rice & Porridge
271 Onan Road, Dunman Food Centre, #02-13, Singapore 424768
Tel: +658685 8808
Operating hours: 6am-3pm, Mon, Thu-Sun. Closed Tue & Wed.

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Looks fantastic. It’s always really said to see how some of these recipes and traditions don’t get passed down the generations. Although rents are relatively cheap for more established hawkers, the financials and competition make it really hard work. That’s why the younger folks are jetting abroad.

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Part of the problem is the old-style thinking of the older hawkers - where recipes are often kept secret from one’s apprentices or assistant cooks, for fear that the latter will leave and set up their own businesses. As a result, many “heritage eateries” live and die with the hawkers owning them.

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Thought we recognized him:

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It sounds like a different subject but here in Montana we see family ranches being sold to developers and mega-ranching corporations because the old folks who have ranched the land for 50 or 60 years are unable to turn over control of the ranch to their children. Until it is too late and the children have moved on to non-ranching careers in town and none are willing and able to take over the ranch. Starting in the 1970’s we started seeing the old pioneers (literally) passing away and their ranches were frequently bought by local mega-farmers because the kids that wanted to take over the ranches in the 1950’s and 1960’s were too caught up in their town lives to move back to the ranch. And the mechanization of ranching allowed the older ranchers to continue to operate their ranches well into their 70’s.
I see the hawker stall owners/parents and the ranch owners/parents as having similar drives, strengths and shortcomings. And the difficulty many of them have in turning their “babies/businesses” over to their “babies/children” was one of the shortcomings common to parents the world over.

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Well said.

Hawkers in Singapore also tend to want “a better life” for their children. Most saw their vocation as a means to earn a living, and a tough one at that. They actually wished their children would do something else.

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There’s the “family business”, and then there’s the family business of seeing that the next generation can take care of itself and those who might need help. Those hawkers wanting a better life for their children know the difference.

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US Ambassador to Singapore gets to experience the current Hungry Ghost festival:

KF Seetoh invites US Ambassador to ‘uniquely Singaporean’ Hungry Ghost Festival Getai in Toa Payoh (msn.com)

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