Sicily Osteria - Go, Blindfolded if you Must

I Ate on Restaurant Row and Lived to Tell the Tale

Probably the most ambitious Sicilian menu we have. Opened by the Bocca di Bacco family who are from Sicily. Service almost entirely Latin American, and chef is Israeli, with stints at Osteria Morini and Marea. Heather Pelletier, also with Osteria Morini, and Momofuku Milk Bar helped open the place about a year ago, but not involved much these days.

My negroni was poor. The street food snacks (Pannelle, Crocche, Arancino) were excellent. The pastas were good. Leaning on the sweeter side, but enjoyable nonetheless. The creamy Busiate was the better of the three. The Con le Sarde was good, while the rabbit Pappardelle was a bit one note but fine. The Couscous (Trapani specialty) was top notch. The fresh seafood worked really well with that broth, especially the scallops. And the pistachio lava cake was a solid finisher. All considering, especially the location, an enjoyable meal on the sidewalk among tourists, and other bridge and tunnellers (like us).

For better or for worse, the location, and the lack of Italians on the staff, means they may not get any attention from NY media. Super easy to reserve as a result, and due to the size of the place. There are some other advantages with eating at a place like this, as opposed to downtown. For starters you are not the oldest person in the room, and you can have a conversation. And you are not charged $8 for the excellent bread, initially at least

Note, if you have nothing else to do and decide to read the post linked above, I apologize in advance. Lets just say, I got a little bored with the usual format




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Thanks for this! Always looking for more options in that area. I pretty much stick to Marseille, Glass House Tavern, Lattanzi and the Russian Vodka Room.

Will you go back @Ziggy ?

Mmmm RVR.

Yes. Maybe not in a hurry, but I would go back for the Arancino, Busiate, lava cake and try some of the other pastas and mains. Not so interested in the pizza. Its a very full menu which to me is a negative. And I cant speak for consistency. I would need more to replace Dell’anima as my favorite Italian in the area, and pass on Thai and other faves nearby.

I miss dell’anima… I know, I know, it’s still there but So Far West!

I love that place. So festive! So dangerous!

good report.

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Coincidentally, my daughter yesterday…

“Going to Dell’anima tonight. Have you been?”
Me : “Many times. Once with you”

Its interesting that Dell’anima is now a destination place with the Manhattan kids

She loved the greatest hits: The Carbonara, and chicken.

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You lost me at: “My Negroni was poor.”

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Thats why I listed it first

Went to Sicily Osteria today for an early dinner.

Overall positive, given the location and the time. When we got there at around 5/5:15, the room was practically empty. By the time we left at 6:30, every table was occupied.

The service reflected a bit of manic, pre-theaterness – polite, but rushed. Our mains showed up about 2 mins after we ordered them – so they must have some pre-cooking / assembly line going in the kitchen for popular dishes.

On to what we ate.

Starters of a giant arancino and a burrata salad with artichokes were both good. The tomato sauce under the arancino was tasty, both then and when it reappeared with the mains.

My visiting friends both ordered chicken parm (yes, yes, not very Sicilian but the heart wants what it wants) which they were very pleased with. I ordered housemade spaghetti alla chitarra with crab in a lemon cream sauce, very nice and sporting a good portion of crab meat. The side of broccoli rabe had sadly had the flavor and texture boiled out of it.

For dessert, which I was oddly craving but neither of the others were, two of us shared the house specialty of frozen lemon mousse that is presented to look like an actual lemon, with several layers inside, and over a crumble base. This was intensely lemony and absolutely delicious, and no one could resist it.

All in all, a nice enough meal. I would go back if I had to eat Italian in the neighborhood, and to try Sicilian dishes. But it would be much more pleasant without the staff feeling rushed by the theater crowd. The lunch menu looks good.

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Good stuff. FWIW, the original chef is now at Glasserie in Greenpoint.