Shanghai ‘24 - Hangzhou: some Eats & Markets

Hangzhou is a lovely town with abundant shade trees and serene canals throughout. The locals appear to enjoy their living here and help make for a very comfortable and relaxing visit.

Hangzhou focused food was for our final dinner last night.

Started with a local beer and some Baijiu, a kickass 112° proof Chinese White Lightning.

Pey Dan (Century Egg) was incredible. Creamy with a bit of funk, what we get back home like eating cardboard by comparison. Texturally and flavor wise.

We ordered two fishes.

West Lake Fish in Vinegar Gravy (Song Sao Fish). A grass Carp with a thick sweet and sour’ish sauce.

The second fish was prepared two ways. Flakes stir fried with Bell Pepper and Cai Choy (pickled mustard greens).

The bones and bits in a milky soup with Tofu and Greens.

Gotta have veggies. Loofah stir fried with a little Bamboo Shoot bits.

Bamboo Shoot Threads stir fried with Pork.

The wife over ordered, per usual. I’ve learned to keep my mouth shut and just enjoy the bounty. :slight_smile:

Signage at our table urged patrons to order responsively and not waste food. Very responsible.

Feels great to take a leisurely comfortable walkabout after dinner and grab a sweet or two. Sadly, a simple pleasure we cannot comfortably indulge back in San Francisco.

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I swear I need to bring a hit of Narcan when I hit morning markets!! I get an absolute high bouncing around amidst the cacophony of barking venders and value seeking shoppers. The energy and excitement is palpable and totally contagious!! We rush from stand to stand, fearing the best this or that will be snatched before our very eyes. FOMO!!!

I’ll start with Fruits and Produce first, then onto Proteins and Cooked Foods.

Fresh Cut Fruits stand. Yang Mei season is over, I did get a very refreshing Yang Mei Tea!

(That’s dry ice, not hot steam)

Beautiful huge Grapes @ a fraction of the price in Japan. I understand the seeds were smuggled from Japan and now growing elsewhere.

First Hachiya Persimmon I’ve had in decades. The vender picked some ready-to-eat ones for us. Melt in mouth and sweet as natural candy.

Watermelon must be in season. Then again, watermelon seems to be always in season in Asia.

Lotus Pods, edible seeds. The familiar Lotus Root and the Gorgeous Flowers!!! I’m buying some for our next hotel room if available at our next stop.

We’ve only started seeing these Elephant Gai Lan last year.

I’ll stop here, could go on and on.

Love the delivery lorries here. Even the tricycles are EV these days!!!

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Those grapes were delicious in HK too! Wish I had known this earlier in my trip, I would have eaten my weight in them!

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I’m guessing (but not sure) that those grapes are the famed “Shine Muscat” variety. If so, there are indeed very expensive in Japan. Due to the cost, I avoided buying them for years. Shizuoka Prefecture and especially neighboring Yamanashi Prefecture are well-known grape growing regions and thanks to that, they tend to be a bit more reasonable than they were when I lived in Tokushima. And they tend to be sold only in large bunches. But in Shizuoka, I found a small cup of 8 grapes for the equivalent of approximately $5.00 and tried some. While they were indeed quite sweet, I found them lacking in grape flavor.

Then one day on one of my walks, I found a lady selling “Shine Muscat” grapes next to a farm field. They were incredibly cheap…about $3.00 a bunch. I asked her how she could sell them so cheap and she explained they weren’t seedless (most Japanese grapes have many large seeds) and the skin was thicker than “Shine Muscat” grapes in the store. I asked her why and she said her family’s farm doesn’t spray the agricultural hormones on them to stop the seeds from forming and keep the skin from thickening. Yes, an agricultural hormone is sprayed on the grapes. I was disappointed to hear that. Here’s more on that:

“The method of producing seedless or large fruits using gibberellin, a type of plant growth hormone, was developed in Japan. This method has been adapted to Shine Muscat as well as many other grapes for table grapes.”

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shine_Muscat#:~:text=to%2050%20seeds.-,Treatment%20with%20plant%20hormone,other%20grapes%20for%20table%20grapes.

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Very interesting, thanks for the info.

We first noticed these grapes in Japan a few years ago. The exorbitant cost deterred us from buying them at the time.

I think it may have been in Nagoya or Kanazawa a couple of years back that we finally sucked it up and bought some. Very nice, not life changing.

I was somewhat surprised to see these large grapes at the Hong Kong wholesale fruit market last year, at a reasonable cost. Since these were Japan imports, I expected the price to be even higher than in Japan, factoring in transport and additional handling.

That’s when I found out these were cultivated from Japanese seeds, grown in China. Thus the discounted price.

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You’re welcome.

Japan struggles a lot with the illegal export/smuggling of seeds/branches/seedlings of highly valuable fruits (maybe vegetables, too…I’m not sure about that). But an important part of how these fruits, etc. are made so delicious is not only the selective breeding of them, but how farmers thin out the buds, seedlings to make each individual fruit, etc. larger/juicier/sweeter. That’s one reason why Japanese produce tends to be more expensive than in the West.

Shizuoka is famous for various types of melon. I was puzzled by what I saw at some green grocers there…tomatillo-sized little fruits…they turned out to be the very immature melons that farmers had picked. Locals in Shizuoka pickle them to make a type of Japanese pickles (“tsukumono”…the Japanese word for pickles.). As melons are in the squash family like cucumbers, that makes sense. Unfortunately I never saw the finished product in stores to taste them.

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The Chicken on the header a sure sign this restaurant specializes in chicken. We arrived somewhat early and was only slightly ahead of the lunch crowd.

Tough choice between the Bak Cheet Guy (Poached Chicken) and the Roast Chicken. I’m fond of poached, so went with it. Simple soya dipping sauce.

Three veggies. Bamboo Shoots. Shanghai Bak Choy. Cilantro with Tofu Slivers.

Congee flavored with Chicken Oil. Tasty!

Chicken Offal Hot Pot. Lots of Chicken goodies, including the not so common Chicken Blood. Silky goodness!

Bak Cheet Beef. White Cut Beef. This prep method on Chicken is familiar, but we had goat done this way the other day, now beef. Not likely to become a favorite. A bit dry and lacking flavor.

Egg Rolls, just because.

A couple of tall Chinese Beers. Help yourself to all the Soy Milk you care to drink.

Good lunch. The chicken not as quite as good as the wonderful version at Raffles in Shanghai. That has set the ultimate standard for me.

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