SEVILLA for 5 nights, March 2025

[erica1]

I arrived yesterday in rainy Sevilla, where I’ll be spending five nights before heading to my usual “rural inn” outside the town of Vejer de la Frontera. This will be my third year at that location, and I’ve covered eating in that area in previous threads.

I’ve not been in Sevilla since 2019 so will be sampling restaurants new to me, with the exception of AZOTEA (their new premises will be new to me, however).

BARRA BAJA was my first meal in the city, last night, and I could not have hoped for a better introdction to the city. I was very fortunate to share my meal with Shawn Hennessy, whose tapas blog is THE guide to dining in Sevilla for English speakers. Shawn also leads food tours win the city as well as sherry tastings (she’s an accredited "sherry educator’) and contributes to Decanter and other publications. I was so delighted to be able to meet here on her local turf, and we had tremendous fun together, seated at the “Barra Baja,” the "low bar, where eight diners can watch the chefs work their
magic. Our dishes were prepared by Chef Rafa Linan, who owns the restaurant along with his partner, Patri.

Every dish was a hit for me, beginning with a pair of Gillardeau oysters, each prepared differently. One of these very large beauties had a butter and sherry sauce and the other, a smashingly great sauce of cucumber and dill specked with tiny spheres of olive oil.

We reluctantly passed on the artichoke with Payoyo cheese but made note for next time!

These clams with a butter sherry sauce were superb:

Terrific as well were the tender chunks of monkfish tail with such delicious lightly sautéed spinach; one of the best fish dishes I’ve had recently:

We began the meal with cava and moved on to sherries. All selected by Shawn, who certainly knows her wines!!! I was so happy to be guided by an expert, as my knowledge is pretty paltry.

This was a wonderful start to my vacation and I’d definitely place BARRA BAJA at the top of my list for a return visit. The total for two of us, with six drinks, was 96 euro. Both setting and service were excellent; the restaurant is just across the street from my hotel.

Owner/Chef Rafa is putting the final brûlée on flattened leeks, which I noticed several of our fellow diners had ordered:

See if you can spy the gigantic truffle from Huesca at the far left of the display on the bar.

Barra Baja, Mejores Restaurantes de Sevilla, Cocina de Mercado

This is Shawn’s review of BARRA BAJA, from her superb SEVILLA TAPAS compilation:

Barra Baja Restaurant in Sevilla | Azahar Sevilla Tapas

[Thimes]

Thanks for posting. Sevilla is still on the list of places to go! Maybe next trip to Spain!

[krystle920]

Looks delicious! Look forward to hearing about your next meals in Sevilla!

[Maribel]

So glad you enjoyed my recommendation of Barra Baja and that you finally were able to connect with our friend, Shawn.
And as I mentioned on another post, after our tour of the property when it opened (or maybe on another travel related forum), the Hotel Casa Palacio don Ramón had your name written all over it!

The female owner of the Don Ramón and creator of the 3 hotel group Kaizen, Marisa Azcárate, has endowed the hotel with many pieces of her priceless art collection. And she has another opening under her sleeve, in Sevilla´s Triana. Stay tuned!

I believe that Rafa and Patri may have been the chefs at the Mercer when you last stayed there.

With Shawn we also had those glorious oysters.

[erica1]

Dear Maribel: When I win El Gordo I will book a room at this hotel for the rest of my life. You know me so well! This might be the most comfortable hotel I’ve ever experienced. Not only the gorgeous decor evocative of various eras in Seville’s history, but the peace and quiet of the room. I can’t remember ever sleeping so well–at home or in a hotel. Heartfelt thanks for the tip; I would never have found this place without your guidance!

AZOTEA, LA TIENDA…8:30 pm reservation

I’ve been a tremendous fan of AZOTEA, and have dined at several incarnations of the restaurant beginning in October 2012. (I remember the date because we were in a fantastic rental apartment, glued to the tv coverage of Hurricane Sandy devastating New York). We ate there three times, I think, during that stay in Sevilla, and I’ve been back several times both to the location off C/Jesus de Gran Poder and to their newer outpost in the beach town of El Palmar de Vejer, province de Cadiz, the scene of my flat-on-my-face fall during lunch last March.

I looked forward to my dinner here and appreciated the warmly greeting from long-time server, Diego. With the former space now devoted to private parties and weekend brunch, the restaurant now occupies the premises directly across the street (C/conde de Barajas) named AZOTEA LA TIENDA.

Most of the ten tables were filled when I entered about 8:30, but there were about ten additional , free seats along the bar; only one of these bar seats was filled during ny time there, so I imagine (?) a party of one or two would have no trouble finding a bar seat without advance booking. (This was a Monday, when many restaurants are closed, but perhaps its a slow night for dining out…)

I began with a palo cortado, selected by Diego. Two of the three dishes I ordered were specials; one was listed on the menu:

NAVAJAS (razor clams with small, pale green beans):

Although the flavor was great, the clams were tough and I was very disappointed. I shared this with Diego, who agreed that they were overcooked–he pointed to the char on one of the clams and told me that this was “unacceptable.” I had already consumed about half of the “media racion,” which consisted of a hefty amount of clams–at least a dozen. But without my asking, this was removed from my bill with apologies.

[ssinny95]

We LOVED Barra Baja (also went there on Shawn’s recommendation. We did a sherry tour with her when we were in Sevilla. She’s amazing). And the oysters were definitely a highlight. Our only problem there was that there were only two of us and we couldn’t order enough!

[Maribel]

Shawn had told us about the change at La Azotea and we wondered about it. We’ve had multiple very casual meals, without advance booking, across the street at La Tienda but while the wait staff was bringing dishes and ingredients back and forth between the sit down restaurant and the primarily gastro bar space with high tables and bar stools.

I’m glad they remove the navajas from your final bill.

[Maribel]

And Heladerías Bolas, with 3 locations, has a Repsol solete.

[HellieF]

Erica, I’ve so enjoyed reading about your travels and meals on Fodors, I even migrated over here to HO to keep following along. I was happy to see a new post from you this morning! Between your enthusiastic, well-observed, and sensitively written reports, and Maribel’s invaluable insights, I’ve managed to put together what looks to be a delightful string of reservations for our trip.

One thing I wanted to comment on concerning your report on La Azotea. You said:

@erica1

With the former space now devoted to private parties and weekend brunch, the restaurant now occupies the premises directly across the street (C/conde de Barajas) named AZOTEA LA TIENDA.

From what I see on Azotea’s site, as well as in Shawn’s blog, they are still serving lunch and dinner in the restaurant at No. 13, but only on weekends (Fri, Sat, Sun).

I made a reservation for a weekday lunch in early April, only realizing later that it would be in La Tienda. We really wanted to try the restaurant, rather than the bar, so I’m waiting to hear whether they will be able to accommodate us on the Friday instead.

Now back to our regularly scheduled program!

[erica1]

Hellie, You are correct; AZOTEA restaurant IS open weekends but I thought only for brunch. But I did not ask them so surely I made a mistake here. The waiters do go back and forth to bring dishes from the restaurant kitchen to the TIENDA. But that did not seem to affect the temperature of the plates. I am SO happy that you are here now, from Fodor’s!!! We need more voices on this site…

Maribel, I re-read my posts twice and I saw no mention from me about BOLAS!! Are you now reading my mind? I went over there yesterday morning to inquire about their closing time. The friendly guy I spoke to (the owner–young, glasses??) told me they would be open until midnight. So I skipped dessert at AZOTEA LA TIENDA with helado on my mind. Walked over to BOLAS (very close to hotel on Calle ORFILA (!!) ) only to find them shut tight at 10pm… Will try again tonight after INCHAUSTI.

I am pretty embarrassed but–full disclosure–it’s 3pm and I have yet to leave the hotel!!! I don’t think I’ve ever been in a more cozy room–so quiet!! And so beautiful!!! And of course I bought some cheese yesterday for a snack, at Encarnacion market in Las Setas. I asked for Payoyo and the seller recommended an aged sheep cheese cured with wine that he said was Payoyo but I think it is not actually Payoyo but made in the same area. I think the Payoyo has a red label…will investigate further. I am determined NOT to bring any ventresca tins home with me on this trip as I have a large stash waiting at home, but cheese is on my list… This hotel is about ten steps from El Corte Ingles with their supermarket!!

OOOh…It’s always rainy here but not at all cold. So I’ve been skipping the umbrella–just too cumbersome–since I have that trusty white rain jacket with a hood from Costco!!

[Maribel]

Yes, erica,
I’m a mind reader

Hellie,
Shawn told me a couple of weeks ago that La Azotea was serving at number 13 but just on weekends.
And yes! I keep recommending that Fodor´s food lovers follow over here to HO so as to have more activity here.

Payoyo has the red label. We bought some yesterday at our El Corte Inglés Club del Gourmet along with some Idiazábal.
And Payoyo is goat, not sheep’s cheese. So I don’t know what aged help cheese cured with wine that might be. Queso de oven al vino tinto–maybe google it to look at the photos to see which matches the cheese that he sold you…

Bur for a superb Andalusian cheese, look for Queso Olavidia, “Quesos y Besos”, that won the World Cheese Award in 2022. Miguel Angel serves it at La Catapa.

Olavidia, el mejor queso del mundo directo desde fábrica

Sorry about the rain…It’s been raining buckets here in Madrid and we’re having a big barbecue on Saturday! The patriarch is making his famous lamb espetos and my BFF has brought down chistorra from Navarra.
Although our covered porch has a table for 8 or 10, just hoping we don’t have to move inside, as we don’t have a d.r. table with a big extension. Praying for this rain to end!

[Maribel]

too late to correct–
“Queso de oveja añejo al vino tinto”.

[Maribel]

erica,
Since you’re going to La Barra de Inchausti, make absolutely sure that you order their sopa de galeras.
It’s simply the best in the city!

[erica1]

Maribel, shame on me for confusing cabra with oveja!!

This is the cheese I bought yesterday but have not tried yet:

The rest of the photos from AZOTEA LA TIENDA, last night:

GAMBAS ROJAS from near Motril (Diego was not sure but he thought “near” Motril;) he sounded apologetic about these, maybe because they were not prawns from Huelva (??)

They were fantastic and I could have had double the order!

Saquitos de brik, a play on the Tunisian “Brik” pastry, similar to phyllo and maybe even made with phyllo pastry. Crackle on the outside yields to creamy white cheese inside, studded with little chunks of shrimp. I first had these at AZOTEA EL PALMAR and I love them, still. I imagine the reddish sauce is made from pureed peppers but forgot to inquire; would order these anytime I see them:

My bill, with the navajas removed, and with a glass of palo cortado: 32.50 euro. AZOTEA is a “must go” for me in Sevilla.

Just returned from the flamenco show at MUSEO DEL BAILE FLAMENCO…one hour of fantastic artistry…another absolute “must do” in Sevilla. (No photos allowed)

[Maribel]

Yes, I agree with the flamenco at the Museo del Baile Flamenco, the brain child of legendary flamenco artist, Cristina Hoyos.

There are 3 very small, intimate flamenco venues that I always recommend on these fora:
Casa de la Memoria (where you’ve already been if memory serves), Museo del Baile Flamenco and Tablao Alvarez Quintero.

4 wonderful gambas en this country:
gamba blanca de Huelva
gamba roja de Garrucha (the ones that you had, if memory serves, at La Tasquita)
gamba roja de Dènia
gamba roja de Palamós

For me, the best of Motril are its quisquillas.

[krystle920]

I have both Heladeria Bolas and Gelateria Mito on my list to try!

[erica1]

Just finished a small (smallest size–3.50 euro) cup of salted caramel from MITO, a half block from BARRA IN INCHAUSTI. Recommended!!

[krystle920]

If you want something a little different, I would be curious what you think of Beirutina. Shawn has it on her top restaurant openings for 2024, but she only gave it 4 oranges. It has really good reviews online though.

[erica1]

I adore Lebanese food, the little I know of it, but I don’t have time to even try the places on the top of my list…I will see if I can walk by and take a look, though.

I had fun tonight! After the stellar flamenco show, rested up at this fabulous hotel and struck out again for BARRA DE INCHAUSTI. I made a mistake and booked the restaurant adjacent to the bar but no problem–I arrived at my reservation time, 8:30–so early for Andalusia (!) and they were closed so I took a seat at a table outside and after a couple of minutes, the sign was switched from “cerrado” to “abierto,” and I was the first one inside. No problem to sit at a little high table at the window–perfect.

The owners hail from Sanlucar and the carta has “provincia de Cadiz” stamped all over it! Ortiguillas!! Salsa de sobrehusa!! Tortillas de camarones!! Sadly, the weather has put a damper on fishing, so the first four dishes I wanted to order were not available…no ortiguillas and no clams for this New Yorker.

Never mind…this is a more traditional restaurant than both AZOTEA and BARRA BAJA; traditional in a very good way. Its like its been lifted from Cadiz city to Sevilla… The bright white and blue bar area was empty when I first entered but filled up pretty quickly and I think I was the only tourist in the room. Service excellent from an older, correct waiter. I began with a tortilla de camarones, a fritter of shrimp, perfectly fried to a crisp.

I was at a loss about what to choose next but the avuncular waiter stepped in and recommended the cod with a sobrehusa sauce, particular to Cadiz and Malaga, and a sauce I’d not heard of before.

Sorry I could only find the description in Spanish:

<<<En la provincia de Cádiz la sobrehúsa sigue siendo muy popular, pero a medida que avanza hacia el Océano Atlántico, pierde el tomate y el pimiento y se vuelve muy simple: un sofrito de ajo y a veces cebolla, harina tostada, laurel, agua o caldo del puchero (muy habitual en platos de pescado antes de la invención del Avecrem) y si acaso, un chorrito de vino blanco. Así la recogen varios famosos recetarios gaditanos.>>>

Maribel will be able to describe a lot better, but this sauce in Cadiz seems to include a sofrito of garlic and sometimes onion, with toasted flour to thicken, and bay leaf. Then either water or a stock and maybe a “chorrito”: of white wine. Whatever this sauce is, it’s one we have to replicate at home because the cod I had last night was, simply, excellent. A chunk of fish doused with this very tasty sauce! This was a small meal, but perfect for me.

And because I did not reach my usual “stuffed to the gills” condition, I had room for ICE CREAM!!!

The bill for the two dishes, plus a glass of “vino generoso,” fortified wine aka sherry which I my preference is always semi-dry:

RESTAURANTE CASA INCHAUSTI (this is the family name)

3.50. copa de generoso
3.00. tortillita de camarón
3.20 sobrehusa
1.80 pan/picos

Total charge: 11.50

A very solid place and I would return in a heartbeat…please grant me more time in Sevilla…maybe a month next year (???). I cannot convey in words how wonderful it is to be here, and how fortunate I feel…

After my little meal I walked a few steps to MITO, for ice cream. I took the smallest cup–3.50 euro–of salted caramel and I think I need to include an helado stop after every meal from now on. MITO has a few locations in Sevilla so will visit again, and will also visit BOLAS, which is only about one block from my hotel. This hotel, by the way, probably occupies the very best location in the entire city,

[erica1]

El Corte Inglés is just across the street.
Some of the haul from my food-shopping spree this afternoon; not shown is a good-sized chunk of cabrales from Asturias; thank you to More Kasha for reminding me of this cheese! Now I have a good snack option for my room, with picos. There was a good sale, two for one, on the asparagus from Navarra.