Jonathan Kauffman in the LA Times about Corti Brothers market in Sacramento -
Corti shipped aged Parmesan down to Valentino in Santa Monica via Greyhound and secured Spanish olive oil for Square One in San Francisco. And he caught the attention of a cadre of young chefs and food writers across the state, including Reichl, Andrews, Alice Waters and Jeremiah Tower, who were creating a new narrative around California cuisine, one that transposed a hitchhiker’s nostalgia for sleepy Provençal bistros and Tuscan grandmas onto a counterculture-fueled fidelity to local organic farms.
> Everything needs a story. Otherwise there’s no there there.
Corti Brothers grocery store in Sacramento.
(Max Whittaker / For The Times)