Rome - February 2026

I’ve done food tours in Lisbon, Madrid, Malaga, Valencia and CDMX. I did a hop on hop off “tour” of Barcelona which helped to get a feel of the city, but back in 2014, I don’t think food tours were as popular or as plentiful as they are today, my dining experience there was not very memorable, but that was mostly my fault. The choices of tours and food tours these days is mind boggling, which is not a bad thing IMHO.

“To bad about Malaga, that is a city I love!” Same, I’d go back in a heartbeat.

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I left Rome yesterday by NightJet train to Munich then Frankfurt, but I had several really enjoyable experiences in Rome before I left. I went back to Trattoria der Pallaro for the set menu on the last full day in Rome and Mario greeted me warmly when I got there. Nothing fancy, but the screened in terrace is comfortable. He started my meal by bringing me a overfull pitcher of the house white, which is a pleasant, unassuming wine that is a nice accompaniment to a meal. The first plates came out together, charcuterie, cabbage, lentils and bread. The charcuterie and the lentils were good and made a nice start with the bread. The cabbage? So so.

Then a pair of croquettes that were very good and a large bowl of half sleeve pasta prepared two ways. Just delicious!

The next set were a plate of veal and pork, potato crisps and anodd veg dish that was just fun to eat for its oddity to my palate.

Finally there was a cheesecake like dessert served with an orange liquer, Aranjicello? One thing I can not say enough about der Pallaro is the satisfaction that they owner takes in the enjoyment of his food. He wants you to have a good time and when you do, he lights up a bit.
I love people that enjoy making others happy.

Then I walked up Via Margutta to Piazza del Popolo where I was treated to one of the most skilled musical busker duos that I have ever seen.

Earlier in my trip I had lunch in an old favorite of mine near Roma Termini, Trattoria Cecio. I cannot remember what I ordered for the pasta, I think it was Tonnarello alla Puttanesca. I really went there for the grilled seafood. This time I had the Gamberoni alla Griglia with roasted potatoes and they were both very good! The service here is friendly and on point. Like these people and the food they prepare.

One of the highlights of my stay has been two new to me basilicas, San Giovanni in Laterano, which shocks you with its size and its details. Those dots at the bottom left of the basilica are people! It is huge and perfectly balanced! Simply an amazing building!!!

I popped back to Gran Caffe Rionne VII for some more of that delicious fritata I only got a tiny bit of but they were out! So I got a dish of crispy bread with a spinach filling that was ok but not nearly as good as the fritata. But the welcome and and the atmosphere were good enough to make it a nice visit, regardless. Everyone at this place has been very kind. Not sure what this dish was, but with a different filling it would have been better.

I also visited Santa Maria Maggiore, which had one of my favorite stained glass windows and a sunken altar that was simply incredible. Another Rome moment!

Then it was off to Roma Tiburtina to find my sleeper cabin and get some well earned rest.

And a very nice snack of Cherry/Ciliegia-something or other in Italian I got at Roscioli after waiting in a fast moving line for a short time. Loved this dish, Zoe! I ate most of it (and it got crushed in my messenger bag) before I remembered to take a photo. Sorry. :slightly_smiling_face:

I also got a similar one in chocolate and a sweet loaf of bread-like stuff that I have only started in on. Again, simply delicious! No wonder Roscioli always has a line to get in!

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So fun reading this all Ziv. We’ll be in Rome for one day on our way back from Sicily. Unfortunately it’s a Sunday. I will check to see if Roscioli is open then. Your sleeper car is much larger than I would have expected!

eta: looks like they are open on Sundays!

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Yea!
Zoe was right, Roscioli is excellent.

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Noice! Now I want some of your pasta, too. Have been eating mostly paella for a week now.

Like the sleeper cabin. Sunny and clear there. Completely cloudy here in Valencia, no good for photography with my “real camera”.

Safe travels!

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So happy you liked it.

I wonder how the Roscioli resto in Manhattan is doing.

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In Rome, a friend has a reservation for counter service at one of the Rosciolis. Any information on how this will be? Is it the same place you two are recommending? It seems as if they’re very close to each other.

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I sat at the bar / counter at Roscioli’s Salumeria con Cucina, which has an upscale wine bar vibe and nice service from a bartender. Photo from the site.

I suspect that is where you are heading. They will have various Roman pastas as well as more creative dishes.

Via dei Giubbonari, 21, 00186 Roma RM, Italy

The Antico Forno Roscioli is run by the same people, same neighbourhood. It is a bakery with a hot table, with suppli, pizza slices, sandwiches, to go.

Via dei Chiavari, 34, 00186 Roma RM, Italy

Roscioli NYC is located at 43 MacDougal St, New York, NY 10012, United States.

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34 Via dei Chivari is where I went, the line moved fast and the women were friendly as well as efficient.

The cherry tart thing I ate was good but the nut cake/loaf was possibly even better. It got mangled in my messenger bag, if you get it yours will look a lot better!

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Thank you so much. I’m thinking Antico Forno will be our speed at the end of our vacation. No stress, no timing to worry about. I appreciate your help!

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I just looked at the menu of the salumeria, and got extremely excited, but they are fully booked, so back to the idea of the stand in line part.

Can anyone think of another place near it with a similar menu? Because now I am about to start planning another trip to Rome just to try that place.

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Is there a notify option on the reservation app? I have had success with that lately!

Sorry I don’t have other recs nearby! I wish I did!

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Your greens dish looks like puntarelle…

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That is it! Thank you!
That is the greens dish that i liked.
The puntarelle were slightly crispy, fresh and dressed with a light sauce.
The cool thing is that Rocio saw them at the market, mentioned that they were frequently all bought up by that time, so she bought a bag of them and the chef at Trattoria der Pallaro prepared them for us as one of our dishes.

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Puntarelle are a pretty big deal when they are in season. It’s a type of chicory. I have planted the seeds. I think the terroir in Italy probably gives the puntarelle a special flavour.
Wild puntarelle probably is even more special.

Some Italian restaurants in NYC serve it when it’s in season. (and elsewhere of course).

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I love puntarelle! I buy it at the Greenmarket when I find it (not often) and make it with the classic anchovy dressing. I was surprised to find it in Florida last week!! (Bedner’s Market, Delray)

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