Rome - February 2026

,

I arrived in Rome a few days ago and my first visit was to Caffe Fondi, over by Rome Termini. It is a family place run by the Grrand Daughter and Great Grandson of the original owners. Just a cappucino and an omelet and ham sandwich but very nice. The owner offered a spoonful of chocolate paste/Nutella looking stuff and I turned it down. I will remedy that mistake next time!!

My first luncha was at Hosteria Grappolo D’Oro, a Michelin Bib restaurant near Piazza della Cancelleria. I arrived 15 minutes after they opened because I heard they can have long lines. I was welcomed warmly and seated immediately at a nice’ish outdoor table. Waiter was outstanding, service was good but slow. I ordered the menu of the day, with a triple app of Panzanella, Popletta and Baccala mantecato. All were fairly good but very mild in flavor and texture. Truth be told, I did not really recognize these apps as being anything I have seen before. This app combo confused the heck out of me.

My Primo Piatto was Spaghetti Carbonara which was rich, delicious and slightly too al dente, a trait I am seeing a lot of in Rome, again. My spaghetti stuck horizontally out of the fork for 5 inches/12 centimeters before it bent down. Now THAT is al dente! LOL!

I wanted the Agnello/lamb but they were out, or it was not ready. So I ordered cod again with the Bacalla di Ricotta. It was rather good, much better than the app Baccala, if that was baccala at all.

After this lunch I walked up to Piazza Navona, which was lovely on this bright Spring day!

Listened to a gentleman play a instrument I had never noticed/seen before. Not sure what it is. Pleasant way to spend time.

When I got back to my hotel, I was told that I could not leave the hotel to the south or to the west in the morning because the Pope was going to be giving a Mass at the Basilica next door to my hotel. So I got up at 0700 and wandered North and then West around the barricades, police and soldiers. I ended up opposite a portico that allows cars access to an inner courtyard near the Basilica. I figured they would bring the Pope in that way so I stood as close to the portico as I could and still be outside the barricades.
The barricades were 250 meters north and south of me but somehow I just ended up inside them when they locked down the east entrance to the rail terminal. Then the police moved the barricades back behind me and a Carabinieri officer asked me what I was doing so I said I was hoping to see the Pope. He gave a Gallic shrug and his NCO’s left me in the area until the Pope caravan showed up when they allowed me and 30 other people in opposite the portico. The Pope’s driver took him straight into the portico and I figured that was that. But after he shook hands with a Cardinal (guy in red) the Pope walked out away from his security and priests, looked up, spotted us across the street and waved at us. It was kind of cool.

I was raised Catholic but got booted out of CCD for harshly criticizing the movie The Red Balloon. I blame Vatican II. It is kind of cool to have some sort of tie to Rome, even one so distant as being raised Catholic and the Vatican being here in Rome.

9 Likes

Looks like a santoor.

I think variants of this dulcimer type instrument exist across central Asia. I’ve only come across it in Indian classical music.

2 Likes

Is this lunch with an Italian accent :joy:?

3 Likes

Exactamundo!
That extra “a” worked so well I am not going to edit it to what I intended to say.
:slight_smile:

1 Like

It was a relatively “simple” instrument. I think it is relatively light, which is a good thing. He may have to trundle it into the square from hundreds of meters away.
But it has a sweet tone and he played it well.

1 Like

Excited about your next travel chapter. You sure get around!

1 Like