You’re absolutely right onz, Alliance hasn’t had the brioche for a couple of years now. My comment was directed to Kjtravels’ question about tasting menus in general. And brioche seems almost as ubiquitous as the Space Invader mosaics around Paris, the latter being even more delightful.
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I read the Forbes article and the restaurant I’m most curious to try is the new seafood restaurant, Vive, Maison Mer on Avenue des Ternes in the 17th. David Le Quellec runs the show with support from his wife, the amazing Stéphanie (La Scène restaurant and others)! Until I hear otherwise, Vive is going to be very high on my list for next year.
As to Sphère, I’ve only read one review which damned it with faint praise. “… [P]our décrocher une étoile, il va sérieusement devoir travailler pour avoir un soupçon de créativité, d’originalité et de personnalité dans les assiettes. Car là, c’est que du déjà vu à 100%, très bien fait, mais sans aucune identité avec des associations de saveurs évidentes et faciles”. (From Restos-sur-le-Grill) In short, very well prepared plates but nothing new.
Thanks Carole. Doesn’t sound like Sphere is worth replacing so many other great options. Will look into Vive though.
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As a Parisian, I sometimes struggle to advise foreigners on where to eat. For me, the food on the plate is important but not more important than the theatre, sparkle and the very Parisian joy of a restaurant. I used to be a huge fan of Japanese cheffed restaurants for the excellent, wonderfully creative, and very precise cuisine. Indeed, my very first Japanese chef doing modern French at tiny Table d’Aki in the 7th was one of my most memorable eating experiences… and, unlike many of the Japanese-French restos that sprang up later, Aki had a “soul”. But that was years ago and there now so many very good Japanese-French restos doing great food that I would be very hard pressed to select standouts. All too many have a very similar modern elegant décor, subdued almost reverential vibe as well as a central-casting clientele that I often get “déjà-vu” very quickly. And often way too expensive for dinner “entre potes”. Now I usually only go to them for expense-account business meals with clients or colleagues. Admittedly, not the best way to experience a restaurant.
There are exceptions. Although Korean rather than Japanese-cheffed, Perception is a star-worthy modern French restaurant that has a bit of sparkle and “joie” that most of the Japanese-French restos don’t. I have been a few times for both lunch and dinner and immensely enjoyed each experience. Fab creative food, complex flavours, appealing non-cliché décor, interesting clientele, great value for the quality (way under my own usual ceiling of 100€ for a non-expense account dinner and a bargain at lunch), personable service (at least in French), great neighbourhood (SoPI/ Sud Pigalle and the rue des Martyrs corridor). Seems not to have been discovered yet by foreign tourists and so, if you rely on Anglophone “happen to know” reviewers and sources, it probably does not get the attention it deserves. https://www.restaurant-perception.com/
And yes, yes, yes to sfcarole’s suggestion of Chocho. Compared to many of your other picks, a breath of fresh air. French-American chef (born in NYC, French parents, grew up in Brooklyn, returned to France at the age of 14, and now a minor celeb because he was a very personable candidate but eliminated in the 9th round on the French version of Top Chef), very creative modern French cuisine, sparkling fun vibe, excellent price/quality ratio.
I’m a bit ambiguous about Alliance. It’s become so incredibly expensive that I can only afford it for expense account dinners. I have also been a few times for lunch years ago when it was much more affordable but only have vague memories. For dinner the food is definitely A++ but, for me, the overall experience is pretty joyless. The vibe is earnest, almost reverential. Perfect for a business dinner. Sometimes there is no sense of Parisness at all and I occasionally feel like I could be eating in an upscale restaurant in Dubai, New York or Tokyo.
FWIW, my favourite expense account restaurant is Le Clarence in the 8th near the Grand Palais. The setting oozes Frenchness (in contrast to the more international “good taste” of many Japanese-cheffed restaurants), the modern French cuisine is stellar (Michelin 2 stars), and the service although initially a bit formal soon softens to something more playful if you give the right cues.
I for one could eat oysters/ fruits de mer everyday without getting bored. And oysters/ fruits de mer is one of Paris’s most iconic and popular dishes and there’s a huge choice of places that serve them. If you want a place with typically French style (after all, you are tourists visiting Paris, not NYC or Tokyo), the landmark brasseries La Rotonde Montparnasse (my favourite… apparently Président Macron’s as well) and La Coupole Montparnasse are very much a unique Paris experience. For me, an easy walk. For you, a quick taxi ride (check the distance and route on Google and then calculate 1€ a minute for any taxi ride in Paris if you are worried about being ripped off, no tip required) from Hôtel-de-Ville.
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Again, thank you all for the suggestions regarding food choices and yes, Parn/Daniel, also important for me is the ambiance, the feel of a place. I don’t like cold and stiff. One of my favorite chefs in the U.S. is not just a great cook. When I starting going to his place solo while in NYC for business, I always got a nice table, had great interactions and it was a total positive experience. The “feel” to me was as important as the “taste”. (Well, maybe not as important as the taste but it was the differentiator and what made his restaurant special to me).
For some reason I neglected to key in on Carole’s recommendation of ChoCho which you echoed. Very likely now the Sunday dinner choice, a place my daughter will enjoy too.
And Perception sounds terrific. As it happens, I had been looking into walking along Rue des Martyrs and the surrounding areas. Just started reading a book, The Only Street in Paris by Elaine Sciolino, former Paris Bureau Chief for the New York Times. New area for me to explore which is always delightful.
Off to Barcelona for a week then will refocus on finalizing Paris plans when I get back.
Oops, I didn’t mean to characterize Japanese-cheffed restaurants as “cold and stiff”. They aren’t. What I really mean is that because there are now so many of them and so many have a very similar vibe, clientele, decor, and style of excellent modern French cuisine that, for me, they have lost their individuality and sense of time and place. And above all, many lack the almost undefinable “joie” that is so uniquely Parisian.
I suspect that, for her, rue des Martyrs was indeed “the only street in Paris” because it was convenient and Sciolino hadn’t really experienced or explored other similar market streets or the many outdoor and covered food markets in Paris. But yes, the rue Martyrs and the surrounding SoPi neighbourhood is a very interesting and worthy area to explore. For a few giggles, end up at the bordello-style bar at the very stylish Maison Souquet hotel on rue de Bruxelles. https://www.maisonsouquet.com/fr/bar-salons/
Oh I wasn’t hearing you characterize it that way—I was just saying I don’t tend to like cold, stiff places. Regardless, I think the choices will provide a range of experiences. Really looking forward to returning to Paris.
And, your giggles statement had me giggling.
So, here is what hopefully is THE restaurant lineup:
Arrive afternoon Friday, 3/24 so either Nellu or Le Trumilou
Saturday
Lunch at Maison
Dinner at kgb (a la carte)
Sunday
Lunch at Chocho
Dinnet at a Bouillon or Brasserie
Monday
Lunch at Alliance (pricey and may change)
Dinner at Jeanne-Aimee
Tuesday
Lunch at Perception
Dinner at 3 flips of the coin (Pianovins, Jacques Fausett, L’Innocence)
Wednesday
Lunch at Les Parisiens (or Le Sergent Recruter)
Dinner at Granite
So, I lied—-not exactly settled! A big thank you to especially Parn, Onz, Carole and Ninkat as well as others too who have been so helpful in sharing thoughts and experiences. I really can’t wait for this long overdue return to Paris.
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I can only repeat what Parn said in his 9 Feb post – great restaurants, but you’re cramming a lot in and it’s hard to imagine that you won’t end the week with food fatigue.
As my mother used to say when I was young, the eyes are bigger than the stomach. Since you’re considering dropping Alliance as too expensive, I’d suggest it’s better to do one restaurant a day without worrying about expense (at least for some days) rather than two where you’re cutting corners but still winding up stuffed. The point is to get full enjoyment and not just to check off a list for been-there-done-that.
Hmmm. I know that is the case on Wednesday, our last day, but if I cut Tuesday dinner, it doesn’t feel that loaded to me. I was intrigued with Jeanne-Aimee since there was such flexibility in choices that could be lighter but I may be wrong. Also, not doing the full tasting menus as much as the shorter samplings but that may be the wrong approach. Truly not trying to ignore advice!
It is true that you can choose to eat only appetizers, if that’s what you want, in your Jeanne-Aimee choices, so in that sense, it could be lighter eating, and also it is not the trad, heavy French cooking of old. Though I certainly did not leave hungry, the set meal at Granite was also not over the top, FWIW.
I think you guys will have an amazing time. Do let us know! As it happens, I am also arriving on 3/24 for a week’s R&R, and I have yet to even think of making reservations anywhere! Better get cracking, huh?
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@Kjtravels cant wait to hear how your meals turn out!
@ninkat please let us know wheee you go!
I’m going in July and trying to figure out where we want to eat.
I am as worried about you getting food fatigue very quickly as getting déjà-vu. Your choices are mostly clustered in a very, very narrow cuisine-style band. Mostly high notes and all quite recommendable but still, just one note.
How about throwing in something completely different, like North African ? It – as well as Lebanese-- is a big part of the Parisian food culture thanks to historic colonial connections. So, I’ll slip in a cautious recommendation for Dar Mima on top of the Institut du Monde Arabe near Pont Sully in the 5th (easily walkable from Hôtel-de-Ville)… just opened, quite glam/ stylish, good food but maybe a little over-priced because you are also paying for one of the best views in Paris. https://darmima-restaurant.com/
And I repeat my suggestions for a “sur le pouce”/ on-the-go light lunch at the Marché des Enfants Rouges in the Haut Marais, Marché Beauvau/ Aligre in the 12th , Marché St Quentin in the 10th to add a little variety and a change of tone to your itinerary. But not on Monday when all such traditional covered and outdoor markets are closes.
And my top under-the-tourist-radar pick for you, Perception. If you haven’t locked in a reservation, do it quickly. I’m pretty sure it will get a star in Michelin’s new guide, out in March. If it does get a star, rezzies will suddenly become very, very difficult. The local tom-toms are also touting Chocho (recommended by @sfcarole as well as myself) as a pretty good bet for a Michelin star. https://www.restaurant-perception.com/ and https://chocho.becsparisiens.fr/
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Thanks ninkat for not making me feel like a gluttonous pig!!
While my choices do reflect food interests and desires, that’s just part of it. It’s also the joy of experiencing different neighborhoods, ambience, vibe and not having each place feel the same. I’m not trying to do a check list to say “been there” or how many one star Michelins I ate at in Paris this trip.
I was just in Barcelona with my daughter who will be in Paris with me (will post on that board) and better recognized her likes and dislikes. While I was happily devouring oysters, she was not. Vegetables yes, organ meat no. Fish yes, chicken/fowl/birds—-nope. So, trying to factor that in too.
I do appreciate the kind and generous input on this board. In spite of what some if you may think, I am hearing your reactions and factoring them in.
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Just a random thought spurred by your remarks about your daughter’s likes/ dislikes. Do you guys eat in the American way, using the fork to stab individual elements on the plate rather than the European way of using the knife to pile bits and pieces of all the elements on the plate on the back of the fork ? Taste-wise, it makes a huge difference because in France the food on the plate is meant to be a harmonious symphony and not just a series of separate notes.
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Fantastic point! It was on full display when we dined at Granite last fall.
I love my daughter but she has become a really picky eater!
And yes, we adopt European fork position when in Europe. Here in the States not as much. I lived in Italy for a year so got used to it then started reverting back.
Careful @ParnParis, you are skirting close to that tone some of us heathen-though-we-may-be-Muricans might find offensive. I don’t know many Americans who use their forks to “stab;” most of us know that stabbing is for knives. 
I have one other thought (not that you need it) for @Kjtravels: L’Astrance has recently reopened, and it looks like one can now order off a menu (as well as choose tasting menus). It closed, during the pandemic I believe (but some of the locals can correct this, if I am wrong). It was the super “fancy” restaurant I took my daughter to on her first trip to Paris, years ago now, and we had a wonderful lunch (tasting menu at lunch is quite reasonable) filled mostly with delicious fish and vegetable preparations that might suit your daughter’s tastes.
Astrance has indeed re-opened, but the reviews have been decidedly mixed. I’d want to see more consistently glowing commentaries before I’d commit the kind of money they’re asking – 125€ lunch menu, 285€ dinner menu (not counting wine) and of course, even more if you order off the carte.
@ninkat. Help me find a better word. English (and British English, not American English) is my third language. What less “offensive” word do you suggest instead of “stab” that would leave your easily pricked American sensitivities untouched ?
