Recommendations needed for Taormina and Ortigia

Lulu and I are going to Sicily next month for a week. I have been before, and have a couple places I want to return to, but I would love some suggestions. We’ll mostly be looking for dinner spots, and both love fish and vegetarian dishes. Neither of us are big on meat. I don’t want stuffy places, but I am happy to pay for great food. We’ll have 2 nights in Taormina, 4 in Ortigia, and 1 in Catania. Thanks very much in advance for any suggestions!

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Wow. Hope you are better at handling the summer temps in Ortigia than I was. If it gets too hot, I highly recommend booking a boat tour with the opportunity to bring a bikini and dive into the wonderful, crystal clear water.

It’s a tiny peninsula of Siracusa, so it can get a lil crammed when the ginormous cruise ships spit out 4000+ peeps who are all heading into the same narrow alleys, which seem to mostly cater to that crowd, so I’d try to get away from those and hit the fish market (also touristy, but there are so many options you’re bound to find a place with more locals). Divino Mare was one such place where we had nice mussels. We loved Fratelli Burgio for lunch — fabulous sammiches on fantastic bread, and very low-key.

A Putia is very popular & good. Trattoria La Foglia has great pasta & local seafood.

Gelato is everywhere (tho not as good as what we had in Palermo).

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I like it HOT, but Lulu has acclimated to New England temps, and it will probably be tough for her. We are definitely thinking about the boat ride. Thanks for the suggestions!

I think I ate in Trattoria la Foglia last time I was there. It’s just the sort of place I am looking for, you nailed it.

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Thank you so much. I ate at L’Arco dei Cappucinis last time. It was good but not great. Will look at your other suggestion, and appreciate it.

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Tito Mare looks right up our alley.

In Catania, we really liked LE TRE BOCCHE:

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Thanks Erica, I will check it out.

I adore Taormina, can’t wait to get back! I am vegan but the rest of the family is omni. We had a fantastic meal at Rosmarino which clearly marks veg/vegan. Also enjoyed our meal at La Zagara (which I think was just by one of the city gates) - I wouldn’t say it was amazing but it was solid and I remember their pasta alla Norma being very good. Finally, you have to try the arancini and panelle at Stritfud - oh my god so GOOD. Please let us know how your trip goes and stay cool!

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Thank you so much for this information, I will look these places up and put them on my list. I have written to my hotel asking for recommendations but haven’t heard back yet.

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I just noticed that Rosmarino was already on my list, so that’s an excellent sign!

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Yes, we had two dinners at Rosmarino. The owner, Rita, will be good to consult about what to order; I know we had a fish special that we liked a lot for one of our dinners. The next night she did not have the same fish on the menu. Ask her about the specials… Vegetarian is easy in Sicily. I wish I could go back with you!!

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So 3 votes for this place - sounds like a must!

The hotel you recommended in Catania has been extraordinarily helpful with planning. Thank you so much. I am excited to take Lulu with me this time.

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I now have a reservation at Rosmarino! Thanks so much.

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Just got back from Italy, including a week in Ortigia.

Our favorite restaurant is just over on the mainland, Latteria Mamma Iabica. We went last year, sadly it was closed for vacation a few weeks ago but should be open by now.

Caseificio Borderi and Fratelli Burgio are amazing for sandwiches – most are meat forward but you can definitely get good vegetarian offerings as well. (In this aspect, I’d recommend Fratelli Burgio simply because I like its bread and spreads more.)

Cappuccio Pesce Fresco in the market isn’t amazing but the fried fish is fresh, the fish burgers really tasty, and it has a great local wine list by the glass. Bonus points for a 90s/2000s hip-hop playlist. Heard good things about COD da Saretta but my son liked Cappuccio so much he just wanted to go back.

Paninoteca da Antonio e Daniele is classic drunk food – sandwiches and fries. But it’s open late and a great vibe. I know you aren’t big on the meats but the horse meatball tasted like an excellent Philly cheesesteak.

Aside from that we had a kitchen and cooked a lot. (If you do, too, the Gusto Gourmet and next-door Deco supermarket in Siracusa Centro are great for sourcing everything.) But we did eat all the gelato and granita and desserts and will whole-heartedly recommend:

Levante – gelato and granita (we went at least 8 times in 6 days, maybe 9)
Mangiafico Voglia Matta – gelato and granita (and an aperitivo)
Don Peppinu – gelato (didn’t love the granita)
CCA’ e DDA’ – granita (didn’t try the gelato)
Mangano Sapuri Siciliano – cannoli (the gelato and granita are just OK)
Amàndorla Marciante – baked goods, especially almond and pistachio cookies

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The mortadella, stracciatella & pistachio pesto sammich we had at Fratelli Burgio was the best thing we ate in Ortigia, hands down.

I forgot which one of the 3 gelaterie we tried we liked best, but we preferred the no-name gelateria further south in Marina di Modica.

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Another vote for LATTERIA DI MAMMA IABICA…but I think I chose wrongly…next time would order the rabbit…

Thanks, Lambry76!!

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Perfect, looking for a gelato spot! Heading there tomorrow.

The best thing is that gelato is for breakfast and dessert in Sicily. Dangerous, but usually made up for with walking miles and miles every day.

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