My wife tried Taberna LX with a colleague and liked it enough to return with me in tow. Jonathan Poon is the chef and does a pretty good job at fancified, fusion-y Portuguese. The bar manager is Isabo LeBlanc and the options include some great cocktails, an all-Portuguese wine list, various ports, and some interesting Portuguese liqueurs. It was less than half full on a Sunday night, so I hope it will be able to stick around.
We had two cocktails:
- Xodó - aguardente, coconut, beirão, yuzu, spiced brown sugar syrup, clarified milk - rich mouthfeel, sweet but not cloying, wonderful overall.
- Paixão - lemongrass vodka, passionfruit liqueur, MS herbal liqueur, lime, raspberry dust - refreshing, tangy, with an herbal aroma.
We then ordered two wines by the glass:
- Fitapreta (António Maçanita) , ‘Laranja Mecânica’ Alentejo, non-vintage, Arinto, Roupeiro, Verdelho, Antão Vaz & Friends - lovely with fruity orange, green strawberry, also flint.
- Tito’s Adega, ‘A Cerca Dos Frades’ Pico Island, Azores, 2022, Verdelho, Arinto Dos Açores & Terrantez Do Pico - a very minerally, salty white that went very well with the richer foods.
We started with the shrimp patty, basically a rissois, with sweet coldwater shrimp (sustainable) in a creamy sauce. The frying was nicely done, with crisp and not oily pastry.
The duck açorda was the first real standout. It featured moist roasted duck breast, confit leg, sourdough pieces soaked in a rich broth, onions, and some chili to give it some punch.
Francesinha was a superlative sandwich of steak, mortadella, chouriço, fried egg, some kind of red sauce, covered with melted cheese and topped with pickled hot peppers.
Chorizo and clams was notable for a tasty broth that was not oversalted (which I often find the case with this kind of dish). It came with a few bread slices, but we were encouraged to pair it with their Russet fries, which came with piri piri sauce on mayo. These were crispy (probably at least double-fried) and delicious. The piri piri sauce was particularly great with the fries.
Getting a little overfull, we could only order one dessert, the pao de ló (olive oil cake), which came with bay leaf ice cream. Just a little sweet and with flavours that don’t often appear in desserts, this one really worked.
We finished with a glass of Graham’s 20 year tawny port, redolent of plums and raisins. The bartender then gave us a little taste of Espinheira cherry liqueur, which was delightful.