My fave place in Porto and in a real local neighbourhood near sao bento - O Caracos. Rua das Taipas 27, 4050-599 Porto. 4.6/5 reviews. I could eat there every day and I practically did every time I was there. Say hi to the sisters - is mama still in the kitchen?
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Many thanks again. I am still mulling the change to Evora (of course had read Ziggy’s advice and took it to heart!), but the heat (as well as the impression that it is equally difficult to get around Evora without a car?) has made me pause. I am drawn to the little guesthouse I have booked in Lagos, and the idea I could get into the sea a bit in the heat is also appealing. My thinking was that I could find taxi service to drop me in Porches for a day, and there seems to be boat access to the caves in nearby Benagil that feels like a fantastic excursion to me. Not sure about Ocean (despite its stars and 2nd place Mesa Marcada status), but at least seemed like I could go there if there seemed to be slim pickings food-wise. Problem with going to Evora or Lagos last is that I fly out from Lisbon, so going there last made sense to me.
I think I ate one of the percebes once in Spain, and didn’t exactly get it, but I will try again in Portugal if I find them.
Thanks very much for all of the seafood advice, especially about the clams and Ramiro (very much on my radar thanks to all of you who posted here!).
Thanks for the geography of Lisbon info @erica1! I put the Praça Luís de Camões into Google Maps and found that the hotel I had booked is a two minute walk from the square/place (actually just around the corner from the southern end of the square). So something about that area also appealed to me, as I have been reading.
I think I also read in one of your posts that great duck rice was to be had at the Taberna dos Mercadores, a Portuguese dish I also adore. Anyway, @Maribel, I’m not sure I have said this to you, but your guides for where to eat in Spain (Madrid, Barcelona, San Sebastian) have been my bibles when visiting these cities. Feels like a labor of love to me, and I cannot really express how much your knowledge and sharing of it means to a traveler like me. Your writing here on H.O. is also priceless about this part of the world. If I do not make it to Evora this trip, I will make a point on my second trip to Portugal to go in cooler weather and see this part of Portugal. I have such a strong memory of my first trip to Spain; armed with your Madrid dining guide, pretty jet lagged, and heading out to a bar on Calle Doctor Castelo near the park. I can picture it still now. The guys behind the bar were so nice, treating me to wine labeled “Terrible” that wasn’t (!) along with delicious bites of food. They introduced me to Madeira, and by the time I left, the place was teeming with people enjoying themselves. Such fun!
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@ninkat,
I see your point about Lagos and getting into the (cold!) sea to escape the heat! And. you could get a taxi to Porches (we drove but I wanted to do major damage at the Porches pottery shop).
In Evora there are several small group excursions (to prehistoric sites, olive mills, cork farms, to Monsaraz) that one can book which make it not as essential for a car, but in August it’s just very, very hot. You’re right that it’s best to save the Alentejo region for the fall, for another trip.
Is your Lagos guesthouse the Casa Mãe, by chance?
We like staying too near Lisbon’s Praça Luís de Camões square in Lisbon & have rented an apt. there across the square from the Bairro Alto hotel. And now there’s a simply gorgeous hotel just around the corner on a quiet street, The Ivens.
The square is a transportation hub.
Despite the hills, we enjoy it up in Chiado because it’s within walking distance of some great food—
Manteigaria and Castro-Atelier for pastéis de nata,
Alcôa for pastries/chocolates
Pastelaria Benard for coffee, all on Rue Garret (Lisbon’s most exp. street).
Plus, tiny A Taberna Rua das Flores (no rezzies) for traditional, hearty fare,
the Jose Avillez dining empire (we like his 1st one best, his Cantinho de Avillez),
Henrique da Pessoa’s Alma, chef of the year for '22, 2 Michelin stars, if you want to splurge, a la carte or tasting menu
Bistrot 100 Maneiras
Sea Me, Mar ao Carmo and Aqui Há Peixe for seafood
By the Wine, for wines from Sogrape & interesting small plates
and up the hill on Rua de São Pedro de Alcântara, 83, are the views, great bread and lovely small plates on the rooftop of Insólito with a whimsical Alice in Wonderland theme and Lisbon’s tiniest elevator–chef came from the Bairro Alto hotel.
To get back & forth from the Chiado to the very hectic, tourist-filled Baixa, we take the Baixa-Chiado metro escalators or the elevators inside the Armazen shopping mall.
For little, bohemian tascas that don’t see many tourists, on the Rua de São Jose 134, running parallel to the posh Avenida da Liberdade, we like A Cozinha Sr. Lisboa, which also has a second tasca, the Jardim near Nannarella ice cream, at Rua de São Bento 202A (have yet to try it).
And on Rua de São Jose 206, another whimsical spot, Taberna Anti Dantas
https://www.srlisboa.pt
https://tabernantidantas.wixsite.com/menu
If you have time, I wouldn’t miss a quick trip on the ferry across the Tagus to Almada to dine at Atria-te-al-Rio or Punto Final, next door, for their copious seafood dishes and gorgeous views of “pastel”-colored Lisbon.
Yes, Arzábal Retiro’s “Terrible” wine isn’t terrible at all. It’s such a lively place, always buzzing place. Lots of fun.
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So, not as terrible as it sounds, I will be in Lagos the very end of August and first few days of September, but it looks to be almost ten degrees (Fahrenheit) cooler there than Evora. The guest house I chose was Villa Zawaia, though Casa Mãe also looked amazing. I think I can take a boat from Lagos to Benagil, so that would work for an excursion one day, and maybe I’ll get my international license in case I change my mind about renting a car for that part of my trip.
And though The Ivens looks to be a classic, it was too much for my budget, so I settled into Casa do Barao in Lisbon. I have added stairs to my exercise routine (I live on the 10th floor of my apartment building in NYC, so no more elevator for me!) in preparation for Lisbon, and will look forward to exploring all of the places you have mentioned, as well as all of the others. Thanks especially for the “bohemian tasca” recommendations and the places where I could get a drink and a snack. That rooftop Insólito is very appealing, for example.
It looks like evening dining is earlier (than Spain) in Portugal? Those pictures from the other side of the Tagus at dusk look amazing, and I will definitely go explore that side of the river! Many thanks.
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I like very much your chose of Casa do Barão in Lisbon. We love small, intimate boutique places.
They are contemplating restrictions on the traffic inside the Benagil caves (too many kayaks inside), but you can still get there by boat. From the Lagos pier, there are several different outfitters who can take you on multiple excursions, to there’s the benefit of that.
Yes, evening dinner is about an hour earlier than in Spain, as is the lunch hour.
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Hi! I would not stay in Lagos (or anywhere in the Algarve) without a car, it would limit your choice enormously… but it’s up to you. Restaurants in Lagos: Tasca do Kiko is my favorite, not easy to find in the boat yard of Meia Praia, but the food is always good. It’s one of the few places I trust enough to eat oysters :o)
Dom Sebastião https://www.restaurantedonsebastiao.com/ is always good, if touristy. Other possibilities are “Al Sud” at the golf club of Palmares (1 Michelin star) a great experience and not overpriced: https://palmaresliving.com/pt-pt/restaurante-al-sud/ or the Miranus in the boutique hotel Vivenda Miranda: https://vivendamiranda.com/pt/restaurant-mirandus/
From Lagos, you are perfectly placed to explore Sagres (restaurant “Mar a Vista”) and the Cape St Vincent, a must.
With a car, you could also explore the West coast of Portugal, a natural reserve with spectacular views and plenty of good local restaurants. Perceves (goose barnicle) is a specialty as is sweet potato in Aljezur.
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Thanks @Monchique. Am mulling the car situation and appreciate very much your suggestions!
Reviews are here but can’t find mine! https://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Restaurant_Review-g189180-d2326939-Reviews-O_Caracas-Porto_Porto_District_Northern_Portugal.html
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@ninkat,
Speaking of the “bohemian” restaurant, A Cozinha Sr. Lisboa, that I mentioned above, it just received a very favorable review from a serious gourmet blog that I follow, Mesa Marcada, by the food critic Duarte Calvão.
It’s titled “A Lisbon kitchen where creativity is served with relaxation”.
You can see photos of the restaurant here-
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Thanks for this review…A Cozinha definitely on my radar!
@ninkat Zuari is the place my brother enjoyed. He also said to tell you that the staff in the back is Gujarati and vegetarian, so you can also ask them to cook something Gujarati off-menu.
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Zuari is on my short list of Goan spots and is bolded…Thanks for the confirmation. Itching to go already, but not for a while. 
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