Portugal Trip Planning--Thinking [Porto], [Lagos], [Lisbon], but open to suggestion

In Porto, O Rápido, Taberna dos Mercadores, and A Cozinha do Manel are good for traditional Portuguese food. I also like a quick stop at Casa dos Presuntos Xico (close by Manel, and on the way from the center to Campanhã train station if you’re taking a train to or from Porto) for a dirt cheap presunto sandwich and beer.

In Lisbon, if you’re interested in going to some less touristy area, I’m a big fan of Carvoeiro de Palma (near Laranjeiras metro) for meat dishes and O Relento (technically outside Lisbon in Algés - 20 minute walk from Belem or one stop further on the train) for seafood. But I’m biased as we used to live in Laranjeiras and now live in Algés so these are my local spots.

Since you’ll be going at a time when it’s likely to be hot - Gelataria Portuense is my preferred Porto ice cream spot, Mú and Nannarella in Lisbon. But I haven’t done a thorough ice cream tasting tour in a couple of years so definitely possible I’m missing out on some other spots.

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+1 for Nannarella!


I can’t recall what flavors this was, but it was delicious and worth the schlep from my AirBNB

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We got some excellent gelato in Lisbon as well, but I cannot for the life of me remember where. Might actually have been at the Timeout Market, or at least nearby.

That’s why I take photos of all the delicious foods. :smiley:

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Photos? Of… food? What a novel concept hahaha. Ima check my Lisbon files and see if I took notes :kissing_heart:

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I eat frozen desserts about twice a year. I want what’s in that photo!

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Thanks for all of this! I am definitely taking notes. A question about marisqueiras (I would probably eat seafood every day, if I could, though also interested in other kinds of Portuguese cuisine, for sure): Elsewhere, @Maribel suggests in addition to the A. Bourdain recommendation in Matosinos, “For shellfish (scarlet prawns, lobster and the like), there are restaurants, or Marisqueiras, that specialize in them–Bourdain filmed at the Esplanada A Antigua, but there’s also O Gaveto, Toupeirinho, A Marisqueira de Matosinhos, Os Luisadas.” I am wondering if I was only going to go maybe twice to this area, are there two that would be stand outs? Also, some of them look “fancier” than others, so wondering if this is indeed the case? And if some would be better for lunch; some for dinner?

Also, I googled “marisqueiras in Lagos,” and a number of places come up. I am still flying blind (read: without H.O. input) in this area, and just wondering about this. Does it mean there’s not much good food in the area? Or unfamiliarity with the area? Or…?

Finally, I love clams, crab, shrimp, lobster, langoustine, mussels most of all! I see a preparation of crab all over where they do something to the crab and serve it in the top shell. Wondering what this preparation is? Cold, hot, good, bad? Also, I love the coquina clams I find all over Spain (Barcelona, e.g.). I notice that the clams in pictures at Portuguese restaurants are bigger. They also look delicious to me, but am wondering if the little ones will also be found (and good) in Portugal?

Ninkat:

I agree about Ramiro; it was my favorite dinner in Lisbon about 8 years ago. Yes, we had a reservation BUT: Since I supposed that they guessed that we were foreigners, they seated us in the upstairs dining room with all the other non-Portuguese speakers. Nothing wrong with that, that room is quieter, but the “action” was definitely on the ground floor and I would suggest that you request a table there when you book. It’s a very lively place with super food; you may want to go twice! We had dinner at Belcanto as well but the one I remember best is Ramiro.

Our hotel was in the Bairro Alto, on Place Luis Camoes and I thought that was a good location. The Centro is flat but for me, not as appealing as where we stayed.

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I went to Ramiro twice in 11 days(and waited over an hour in line both times :(, ordered these clams both times :slight_smile:

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MOAR excellence from Ramiro. Yeah, it’s that good :yum:

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Do you like percebes? (“Perceves” in Portuguese)

I’m partial to shellfish and took the very slow tram to Matosinhos several times to eat percebes. I looked at menus outside or asked an employees if they had any. If they did I that’s where I ate my meal. Also bought fresh percebes at the market to cook them myself. Much cheaper than anywhere in Spain (I ate about 2,5 kilos. Would have bought me 200 grams for the same price, probably - in Spain). But I’m sure those cheap percebe days are over.

Re clams, try to find out if the clams are Vietnamese (white-brown, frozen and tasteless) before ordering. Real Amêijoas à Bulhão Pato contains Portuguese clams (or those in 2 photos above). I ordered the clam dish every time.

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That’s casco de sapateira or casco de santola. It’s cold, it’s like a crab salad and usually comes with little buttered toasts to slather it on. I personally love it, my usual marisqueira order is that plus amêijoas Bulhão Pato.

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@ninkat,
Sorry I’m late to the party on this thread, but you’ve received great info already.

We also dined at RAMIRO but downstairs in the enclosed terrace, dining among visitors exclusively. I don’t know if that’s just how they seat non-Portuguese diners now, or if it was by happenstance (I doubt it). The waiter spoke to us in very good English and suggested at the end of the meal that “service isn’t included” and that we could add a tip to the bill presented to us on his tablet. We declined and left a small tip in cash. Just a slight discordant note to our meal. We dined on their fabulous “pão torrado com manteiga” (that irresistible buttered bread), their famous amêijoa Bulhão Pato" ( clams in garlic sauce), delicious “gambas al ajillo” and “santola” (spider crab).

I would second the recommendation of PRADO, which was just named by Mesa Marcada as #1 of the top ten Portugal restaurants (the new Cozinha das Flores. by Nuno Mendes in Porto is rated #9).

We also loved our meal in Belém at O FRADE–outstanding cooking from the Alentejo around a semi-circular bar watching the chefs put the finishing touches on each plate. Fantastic breads, terrific small plates.

About Matosinhos,
Of those I listed, we planned to go to O GAVETO but our hostess steered us to O VALENTIM instead, which she insisted was every bit as good but a better overall value. We went at lunch on a weekend, and were the only non-local diners. It was outstanding and since then we’ve had confirmation from others regarding its quality. So in short, I can enthusiastically recommend it. It’s not “fancy” but yet not “rustic” either.

About Porto,
I would also heartily second the rec. of TABERNA DOS MERCADORES, especially for their signature flaming sea bream. Same owners as Adega São Nicolau. It’s charming.

About Lagos,
We spent 5 nights there with recommendations from our hostess at the Quinta Bonita (now a whole house rental) and honestly, little stood out to us compared to our dining in Lisbon, Porto, Matosinhos, Coimbra, Evora, Portalegre, Cascais, etc.

I expected a few really great stand out seafood meals in the Lagos area, but our best meal we had on the Alentejo Coast on the way down, at TASCA DO CELSO in Vila Nova de Milfontes plus a lovely and huge “arroz de tamboril” at O PAULO high above Arrifana beach, again on our way down.

We did have one lovely meal with a very kind host/owner in the center of Lagos at CANTINHO ALGARVIO (great prawn skewers!) and a pleasant tapas style dinner at A TASCA DO KISKO next to the boatyard, but nothing else stood out. At A TASCA we dined amidst Norther European visitors that come down for the sun, no locals. Lagos just isn’t a “foodie Mecca”.

We did enjoy our wine touring, however, as the Algarve is making some lovely wines in the Silves area now, and our hostess had an honor bar filled with local wines.

Our hostess also recommended VILA VEHLA in Sagres for dinner, but we couldn’t fit it in and MAR A VISTA in Sagres, which was closed the day we did our windy drive to Cape St Vincent.

Other restaurants our hostess recommended in Lagos that we didn’t have time to try:
Casa do Pintor
Dois Irmais
O Camilo
Cachoa
A Comidinha

We wanted to have perceves in the perceves capital of Vila do Bispo but after the Perceves Festival in October, they’re no longer found on the menu until the spring (strictly regulated).

Our very best meals in our 8 days in the Algarve we experienced on the east coast, at a completely unpretentious, simple but terrific CASA CORVO in Fuseta (best fish in the area, said our Tavira hostess) and the most memorable meal of all at NOELIA in Cabanas de Tavira. In high season this is a very hard table to book, but we were luckily with a rainy day in November to just walk in at the end of the lunch service. I would rate it as THE outstanding place to dine in the eastern Algarve. Noelia is loved by all the chefs.

I would actually listen to Ziggy and replace Lagos with Evora, as Evora is blessed with some very noteworthy dining these days, as reflected in Ziggy’s dining notes (we loved ORIGENS and our winery visit & lunch at ESPORÃO and another winery visit & lunch at HERDADE MALHADINHA NOVA in Albernoa). There is such outstanding dining in the Alentejo now.

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Wow! Looks like we dined there just in time (i.e. before prices go up) :partying_face:

Here’s the complete Mesa Marcada top 10 list for Portugal, 2023:

  1. Prado, Lisbon
  2. Ocean, Algarve (Porches)
  3. Euskalduna, Porto
  4. Belcanto, Lisbon
  5. Essencial, Lisbon
  6. The Yeatman, Vila Nova de Gaia
  7. Alma, Lisbon
  8. Vista, Algarve (Porimão)
  9. Cozinha das Flores, Porto
  10. Fifty Seconds, Lisbon

Their #1 chef for 2023,
João Rodrigues of the new Canal in Lisbon

Here’s Mesa Marcada’s top 100 for Portugal, 2023

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About those cheap perceves/percebes prices. I too found them far less expensive on the Algarve coast. My local supermarket here in Madrid prices them at 100 euros/kilo.

I cannot remember how expensive they were when we were at Kaia Kaipe 4 years ago. Something in my mind says 150 euro per kilograms, which sounds logical.

At El Pescador here in Madrid the percebes (from Galicia) are priced at 250 euros/kilo and served in 100 gram servings, priced at 25 euros.

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@ninkat,
Upon further thought, Lagos is not a great destination to visit w/o a car. Bus service is very limited, and the most scenic parts of the Costa Vicentina to the northwest with their glorious cliff formations and expansive beaches are best explored by car. I would personally be frustrated being in Lagos for 5 whole days w/o a vehicle to explore to the west and to drive east to Porches, to the Saturday market at Ohlão or even to Tavira.

I had mentioned Evora in the Alentejo, but reading that your journey starts the last week of August, it will be hot as Hades there. The harvest is sometimes done in 40 degree temps.
If you could start in Porto, then move to Lisbon, then move to Evora (by train or bus) at the very end, at the beginning of September, the Alentejo would be (slightly) more pleasant but it will still be quite warm.

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