I’ll be traveling to Lyon for the first time for 5 days later this year. After having heard and read so much about this magical destination over the years, I’m really looking forward. I would be thankful for some feedback on the places I’m planning to go to and any recommendations for must visits that I may have missed! Also, if anyone has dish recommendations at these places, that’d be great! Thank you.
DINNERS
Brasserie Georges (not a lot of stuff’s open on Sundays)
Restaurant Gastronomique Christian Tetedoie
La Mère Brazier
Le musée
Auberge du Pont de Collonges - Restaurant Paul Bocuse
I did consider ‘Le Neuvieme Art’ but after looking at all the menus, decided on the above. Should I be reconsidering?
LUNCHES
I only have one place so far - Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse.
I was considering places like ‘Le Café des Fédérations’ & ‘Au Petit Bouchon Chez Georges’ but I’m guessing my dinners will be fairly heavy so if I go to these places, it’d have to be something small and light. I would really appreciate suggestions. Thanks!
I would certainly leave out Paul Bocuse at Collonges, a shadow of its former self, though I don’t remember when the former self was still alive, since the last time I was there was years ago and the food was very mediocre. You’re far better off with Le Neuvième Art (put it back into your list) and Christian Têtedoie.
May I add Takao Takano, Les Apothicaires, and Rustique.
Thank you! It’s a shame that Bocuse is not as good anymore. I’ll definitely take a look at Le Neuvième Art and the other places you mentioned again. Just curious - would you have any recommendations for casual, non-tasting lunch spots that I could go to before these long, heavy dinners? Thank you!
Les Apothicaires serves small tasting menus, Le Neuvième Art does have a carte. Takao Takano = tasting menus, and Rustique = menu du jour, but I wouldn’t miss the latter no matter what. You could try Morfal by Steven Thiébaut-Pellegrino (formerly La Bijouterie) for innovative French food, this one should have a menu du jour as well. I know I won’t miss Rustique and Morfal next time I’m in Lyon.
Regarding lunch spots that don’t serve tasting menus, you’re better off with a bouchon, but not just any bouchon. Try Chez Les Garçons, Bouchon Sully, Daniel et Denise, La Voûte Chez Léa, and a Lyonnais friend very recently recommended Chez Georges (the bouchon not the brasserie) and Le Roosevelt, particularly for lunch.
Thank you very much! Is “I wouldn’t miss the latter no matter what.” for Rustique?
Wow, your bouchon picks are very different from what I was considering - cafe des fédérations, Notre Maison & le Musée. Would you rate Chez Les Garçons, Bouchon Sully, Daniel et Denise, La Voûte Chez Léa, ,Chez Georges (the bouchon) and Le Roosevelt as better than the these? If yes, I should reconsider! Also, I read in a couple of places that bouchons tend to be repetitive so it’s not recommended to go to more than 1-2 if one’s in Lyon for a short trip. Would you agree with that?
I wasn’t sure if I wanted to go to Brasserie Georges but I couldn’t find anything else that’s open on Sundays. Thanks again for your awesome advice!
A second enthusiastic vote for Les Apothicaires and its lunch tasting menu. Another vote for Daniel et Denise for a lunch bouchon experience in a charming setting. Of the 3, we chose the D et D in Croix-Rousse.
I never do any ratings, and I don’t know much about the other places. What I’m giving here is insider’s knowledge… Tried and true places from Lyonnais people who go there regularly. I don’t know if they’re better, I only know that they’re worth recommending.
Le Bouchon Sully is unknown from tourists (maybe not for long), very rich and traditional. Chez les Garçons is typically a lunch place with very simple food and a lot of atmosphere.
Only touristy bouchons are repetitive. When you get to know the lesser-known ones, you realize that each one has its own personality. As for Brasserie Georges, if nothing else is open, it’s really a no-brainer and there’s no reason to hesitate. It’s not the best place in the world but discovering the local hangouts with a little abandon and serendipity is, IMO, the right way to do it, all over France.
La Voûte Chez Léa was a true gem until it got a new chef, and it still is. The new management is trying to keep up with the tradition, however, the mackerels in white wine were simply the best in the world the first time I was there, and the last time, under the new management, they were almost the best in the world. Here is an article I wrote about it in 2018. Don’t mind the babble, just look at the pictures.
Thank you for these fantastic recommendations. This is the first trip I’ve planned abroad since the death of Chowhound, and I was utterly lost until I found you on this thread. What I’m inferring is that if one had 2 dinners in Lyon (on a Monday and Tuesday), perhaps the best approach is a Bouchon on Monday, and either Les Apothicaires or Rustique on Tuesday night?
Thank you - I can start a new thread but I would so love to know of any recommendations you have for Avignon, Aix, and the Luberon region. Particularly where locals or local foodies venture and perhaps we will do one tasting menu somewhere upscale in any one of these places.
I’m not very well informed about these places, and like you I prefer simple places with simple cooking where the locals go. But if you’re into one tasting menu somewhere, there’s Florent Pietravalle’s cooking at Hotel La Mirande in Avignon. A gorgeous place, and the food is quite refined (a bit too fussy for my taste but I admit it’s pretty good in its category).
In Châteauneuf-du-Pape, I really like Christophe Hardiquest’s beautiful and fairly unfussy cooking at La Mère Germaine. Chef is Belgian. Nearby, Les Caves de la Mère Germaine is not run by the same chef but is quite good indeed. It’s more a “locals” place.
I’d go back to L’Oustau de Baumanière in Les Baux-de-Provence anytime. If one is to splurge in a fantastic setting in that part of the world, better not miss this one.
CONFIRMED – we are simpatico! My eye was indeed on L’Oustau as our one big splurge meal of the entire trip. So I’ll continue to chase that reservation (the site isn’t even taking ressies right now). Thank you for the rest of these! When I traveled in Italy a decade ago I followed Fred Plotkin’s Italy for the Gourmet Traveler religiously (I built my whole trip around this book). There’s nothing I’ve found that’s comparable for France, unless you know of something. I really appreciate your guidance here.
