[Playa de las Americas, Tenerife] Gula

It hadn’t been the plan to eat here but the vile weather meant we wanted somewhere that was, literally, a quick dash from the apartment. It’s a restaurant we’ve visited several times over the years and, in fact, the only place along the “Golden Mile” that we think of returning to. The menu has an appealing East/West fusion running through several dishes, although for one of us, there’s sufficient choice to remain totally in Spain for dinner.

So, that involved croquetas to start – ham bound with a thick béchamel, formed into a sausage shape, breadcrumbed and deep fried. You order by the piece – three was about right. That was followed by a whole sea bass, baked in a salt crust. It’s always a showy order, with the waiter breaking open the crust at the table, taking the flesh off the bone and presenting the plate. It came with Canarian potatoes and a mixed salad.

For the fusiony one of us, there were gyoza to start. Five dumplings filled with flavoursome oxtail. They were served in a light, very savoury broth with a little wilted pak choi leaf. That was followed by duck breast, perfectly cooked as requested. It’s served with a potato puree and a couple of slices of apple. Very Northern Europe, so far but the fusion continues here in a really nice teriyacki sauce, enhanced by a little finely grated truffle.

For desserts, there was an OK apple tart – circle of puff pastry, caramel sauce and apple, with a dollop of ice cream. Anyone who has watched Masterchef on British television will know that chocolate fondant has been the undoing of many a contestant. Not here. This was a perfect example. The sponge fully cooked, but still light and airy, and the chocolate oozing out onto the plate, just as you hope it will. And good chocolate, at that – nicely bitter – and again set off with ice cream.

This had been a lovely dinner with efficient service in minimalist, modern surroundings.