[Penang] No. 5 Char Koay Teow, MacAlister Road

We braved the crowds to visit one of Penangโ€™s current social media darlings: ๐—ก๐—ผ. ๐Ÿฑ ๐—–๐—ต๐—ฎ๐—ฟ ๐—ž๐—ผ๐—ฎ๐˜† ๐—ง๐—ฒ๐—ผ๐˜„ on MacAlister Road this afternoon. Located in an innocuous-looking tin-roofed shack, this char koay teow spot dishes up hundreds of plates of the fried rice noodles each day!

It was pretty daunting as each new group of customers are handed a buzzer before we got ourselves a table to sit at. Then. itโ€™s a one-hour wait, on average, until one gets buzzed to get up and go order at the service counter. But once oneโ€™s order goes through, it was lightning fast as the skilled ๐˜ค๐˜ฉ๐˜ข๐˜ณ ๐˜ฌ๐˜ฐ๐˜ข๐˜บ ๐˜ต๐˜ฆ๐˜ฐ๐˜ธ-๐˜ฎ๐˜ข๐˜ฏ, Leong Yew Wei, churns out plate-after-plate of perfectly wok-seared noodles with amazing efficiency.

Char koay teow is a classic street food dish of Teochew origins. To delve deeper into the origins of char koay teow, one can refer to this Michelin Guide article:

As for the rendition here - it was very good, living up to all the hype in the social media: one is reminded how good the legendary Tan Chooi Hong, the old Siam Road ๐˜ค๐˜ฉ๐˜ข๐˜ณ ๐˜ฌ๐˜ฐ๐˜ข๐˜บ ๐˜ต๐˜ฆ๐˜ฐ๐˜ธ-๐˜ฎ๐˜ข๐˜ฏ, was at his prime a couple of decades ago. But Tan Chooi Hong had since retired, leaving his son, Tan Kean Huat, to take over. But his son has not been able to scale the heights his father set for him.

Over here, ๐˜ค๐˜ฉ๐˜ข๐˜ณ ๐˜ฌ๐˜ฐ๐˜ข๐˜บ ๐˜ต๐˜ฆ๐˜ฐ๐˜ธ-๐˜ฎ๐˜ข๐˜ฏ Leong Yew Wei will stir-fry his gargantuan plates of ๐˜ค๐˜ฉ๐˜ข๐˜ณ ๐˜ฌ๐˜ฐ๐˜ข๐˜บ ๐˜ต๐˜ฆ๐˜ฐ๐˜ธ one portion at a time. He is very generous with his ingredients, whether itโ€™s the prawns, the blood cockles, the eggs, or even the chives. Searing his ๐˜ค๐˜ฉ๐˜ข๐˜ณ ๐˜ฌ๐˜ฐ๐˜ข๐˜บ noodles over high heat - gas cooker, not charcoal - his condiments were perfectly balanced. Very, very good ๐˜ค๐˜ฉ๐˜ข๐˜ณ ๐˜ฌ๐˜ฐ๐˜ข๐˜บ ๐˜ต๐˜ฆ๐˜ฐ๐˜ธ.

Many customers also order a curious side-dish: ๐˜Š๐˜ฉ๐˜ถ๐˜ฏ๐˜จ ๐˜“๐˜ช๐˜ฏ๐˜จ ๐˜ฆ๐˜จ๐˜จ๐˜ด. Named after Penangโ€™s premier Chinese school: Chung Ling, the eggs remind many alumni from the school of the scrambled eggs served at the canteen of their illustrious school: basically just three eggs, scrambled in pork lard, with a bit of chili paste added. Itโ€™s very rich - better to be shared between 3 or 4 people - and a good accompaniment for oneโ€™s plate of ๐˜ค๐˜ฉ๐˜ข๐˜ณ ๐˜ฌ๐˜ฐ๐˜ข๐˜บ ๐˜ต๐˜ฆ๐˜ฐ๐˜ธ.

For drinks, there is a range of sodas and iced juices. We ordered the classic โ€œMichael Jacksonโ€, a mix of soybean milk (white) and grass jelly (black), doubtlessly named after Michaelโ€™s โ€œBlack or Whiteโ€. Yes, you can go to any drink kiosk in a food court in Malaysia or Singapore and order a โ€œMichael Jacksonโ€ and get this:

Address
No. 5 Char Koay Teow
94, Macalister Road, Sunshine City, 10450 George Town, Penang, Malaysia
Tel: +6018-948 5680
Opening hours: 12 noon to 10pm Mon to Sat. Closed on Sundays.

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Iโ€™ve just had lunch. But, looking at the photos, Iโ€™m hungry again.

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Beautiful! I am going to be in Bangkok next week and I will be looking at your previous recommendations for the area before I go out to eat.
You are a true food historian and guide!

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The most seductive plate of fried noodles in town! :joy:

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Youโ€™re too kind!
For Bangkok, check out the local Michelin Guide recs - they are pretty comprehensive.

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I finally downloaded the Michelin app and started using it earlier this year. I lucked into going to Ten Suns in Bangkok for my first try. The husband and wife were both very gracious and their beef noodle soup was outstanding! I will be going back. I also saw Sae Phun near Krua Apsorn that I want to try! I also saw Por. Pachaya which looks good, too. It is up by Ten Sons so I may scout it out or buy a bowl (not sure of what, there appear to be a lot of choices) there even though I have eaten recently at Ten Sons.
I also want to go back and see how the renovation of the Khlong Ong Ang Walking Street is coming along. It was early days when I was there in January but it may be looking a bit more ship-shape now.

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All sounds good. Iโ€™m tempted to go back to Bangkok again soon. :grin:

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