We’d always liked Viva Victoria for its well-thought-out menu and meticulously-prepared dishes. But the vegan options on its new take-out menu piqued our interest: “Nangka Kapitan” and “Mushroom Rendang en Papillote”?! Curiousity got the better of us - we called ahead to make sure we could order the items for dining in. They were very amenable to our request.
Turned out to be an excellent choice for lunch - we are not vegans, but to experience these vegan options was an eye-opener! We also had their (non-vegan) creamy truffle mushroom cappuccino soup, served in tiny espresso cups; a more-ish vegetarian biryani steam-baked in a banana leaf parcel (reminding us very much of the Sri Lankan Burgher lamprais), and a delicious Malay “sum sum” rice pudding dessert, paired with sago and Gula Melaka here.
Truffle mushroom "cappuccino" - Viva Victoria’s version is certainly one of the very best in town.
Nangka Kapitan - “nangka” is Malay for jackfruit, and only young jackfruit with edible seeds were used for this spicy, dry curry. Usually, curry Kapitan in Penang utilizes chicken, which would be slow-cooked in a spice mix consisting of chilis, lemongrass, galangal, belacan (fermented shrimp paste), fresh turmeric, and kaffir lime leaves.
The vegetarian version of this dish retained the sharp spice heat, whilst the jackfruit provided the sweet-savouriness as a substitute for the chicken-meat.
The curry was served with steamed rice given a light-blue hue using the natural colours from the bunga telang flower petals.
Mushroom Rendang en Papillote - usually, rendang, which originated in Indonesia, but very popular in Malaysia/Singapore, involved slow-braising beef in aromatic spices till the meat is fall-off-the-bone tender. But, in the absence of meat, the “slow-cooked” flavors could not be achieved. The thick king oyster mushrooms did not need long-cooking, so the chef tried to “stretch” the cooking time, and retain the cooking juices, by baking the mushrooms en papillote.
Rendang spice mix was used, but the dish, shorn of its meat content, lacked the deep, beefy flavours which I’d associate with the dish.
Vegetarian biryani - curried vegetables on rice, wrapped in a banana leaf parcel and steam-baked: this dish was the most aromatic and tastiest of the three dishes we had at lunch today.
This dish reminded me very much of the Sri Lankan Dutch-Burgher dish, *lamprais, which is also rice with a plethora of curried meats and vegetables, wrapped in a banana leaf parcel, and steam-baked. The picture on my mobile phone was the lamprais we had at the Pagoda Tea Rooms in Colombo, Sri Lanka, last year.
The chilled bunga telang lime juice was pretty refreshing.
Dessert was Sum sum rice pudding (a Malay-style custard pudding made from toasted rice flour), paired with sago and Gula Melaka syrup
Pretty good vegan cooking by Viva Victoria - we’re already planning a return visit to try other dishes on their menu.
Address
Viva Victoria
169, Lebuh Victoria, 10300 George Town, Penang, Malaysia
Tel: +604-261 0000
Opening hours: 12 noon to 10pm, Tue to Sun. Closed on Mondays.