Heritage Artisans’ private dining menu degustation which we had last night was a stunning spread of traditional & revisionist takes on classic Nyonya dishes as we know them. As a 6th-generation Peranakan-Baba, I am sometimes pretty doubtful about any “modern” attempts to redefine centuries-old classic Nyonya dishes which we know and grew up eating.
We started off with an amuse bouche of sambal anchovies with Bleu d’Auvergne cheese, radish, capsicum & pickled purple onion on crackers and fresh ulam raja leaves
Chefs Nyonya Su Pei and Baba Jerry Kong’s revisionist dishes which followed were amazing: first, the fall-off-the-bone tender curried pork ribs served with ketupat palas (glutinous rice & black-eyed peas, wrapped in palm leaves & steamed)
This was followed by a familiar classic: Huan choo heok masak lemak (sweet potato leaves cooked in turmeric-spiced coconut gravy, with shrimps and red peppers).:
Nyonya Chap Chye (mixed vegetables) with shrimps, tiger lily-buds, wood-ear fungus, beancurd sticks and carrots
Crispy pork lardons were utterly sinful, but irresistible when stir-fried with tamarind and caramelized with sugar, then paired with crisp ice plant leaves.
Kio char SiMiLaJiao (aubergines with spiced SiMiLaJiao chili condiment)
The Nyonya roast duck curry was a first for me, reminiscent of Thai red curry with roast duck, yet with its own unique flavour profile.
Gulai tumis hang ngah hoo (Gulai tumis with stingray)
Scented basmati rice was served on the side - a must-have, to be paired with the assertively-spiced dishes.
The dessert course was quite a stunner: black glutinous rice, layered with whipped cream like an English trifle, streaked through with fermented yellow rice wine.
It’s one of those meals that stays on in one’s taste memory long after the dinner was over. The two owner-chefs, Jerry Kong and Su Pei, truly deserved the standing ovation the satiated diners gave them.
Address
Nyonya Su Pei Private Dining / Heritage Artisans
53, Jalan Padang Victoria (Victoria Green), 10400 George Town, Penang, Malaysia
Tel: +6016-410 6116
Opening hours: 6pm till late, Tue to Sun. Closed on Mondays. By appointment only.