[Penang, Malaysia] Nasi lemak from Rasa Rasa, Chulia Street Ghaut

The Malay nasi lemak - steamed rice cooked with coconut milk and perfumed with the intoxicating scent of pandan leaves - is considered Malaysia’s national dish. Traditionally eaten at breakfast, its popularity has seen it being served at lunch, or even supper, nowadays.

Nasi lemak is usually served as a one-plate meal: the rice forming the centrepiece, around which are arrayed the sides: tiny crisp-fried anchovies, toasted peanuts, sliced fresh cucumbers, a wedge or half of a hard-boiled egg (never a whole egg, for some reason), and the compulsory, healthy dollop of spicy, red sambal sauce, which gives the dish its must-have jolt of tongue-searing heat. This is the traditional “nasi lemak set meal” - simple, fairly substantial, and always satisfying.

Inevitably, in time, the dish has evolved into more elaborate versions, especially those served at lunch or even dinner-time in the evenings: spiced, marinated and deep-fried whole legs of chicken, thick beef rendang or Nyonya chicken curries, spiced prawns or whole fried fish - in fact, anything that one can think of that goes well with coconut-flavored rice. But, I noticed, never Chinese dishes, though - somehow, the taste profiles of Chinese dishes are not suited to nasi lemak, so even Chinese-Malaysians themselves (20% of Malaysia’s populace are ethnic-Chinese) will opt for nasi lemak with ethnic Malay side-dishes, and never Chinese ones.

Lunch yesterday was at one of the best spots in George Town for nasi lemak - MICHELIN Bib Gourmand-listed Rasa Rasa. Owner-chef, Ooi Chong Yong, is a perfectionist when it comes to preparing and serving his food a la minute, so all the dishes here are piping hot, a departure from 99% of nasi lemak in other places here in Malaysia which are usually served cold/room temperature.

We opted for two nasi lemak sets - one with curried chicken, and one with fried whole turmeric-marinated fish.

  1. Nasi lemak with curried chicken-and-potatoes - this is a perhaps THE perfect introduction to nasi lemak for newbies: besides the usual garnish, one gets to taste Penang Nyonya-style chicken-and-potato curry, mildly chili-spicy but totally rich and aromatic. Ooi’s house signature sambal has a chutney-like texture and is mildly sweet, undercutting the harsh chili heat. Some blanched long beans and crisp-fried pappadams rounded off the more-ish plate.

  2. Nasi lemak with Ikan Kunyit - here, the whole yellowtail scad had been marinated in turmeric, then fried to perfection: moist on the inside, crisp on the outside.

  3. Thai-style iced milk tea
    These were brilliant - milky, mildly sweet, and a perfect accompaniment to the two rice dishes.

Need to come back and try the other options on the menu. The Oois in front of their shop.

The back entrance of the shop adjoins the atmospheric Jetty 35 arts & craft market.

Address
Rasa Rasa 回味
59, Gat Lebuh Chulia (Chulia Street Ghaut), 10300 George Town, Penang, Malaysia
Tel: +6012-442 2570
Operating hours: 8:30am to 3:30pm Mon to Fri,
9am to 3:30pm Sat & Sun

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