[Penang, Malaysia] Modern-Nyonya lunch at 𝗡𝘆𝗼𝗻𝘆𝗮 𝗣𝗮𝗹𝗮𝘇𝘇𝗼, Church Street, and 𝗗𝗮𝗽𝗼𝗿 𝗥𝘂𝗺𝗮𝗵, Bishop Street.

[klyeoh (Peter)]

I’m gobsmacked by the fact that, even in the midst of a pandemic, with its rolling lockdowns and on-again, off-again bans on dining out, some brave souls are still willing to risk it all and open a new eatery in the heart of town!

George Town’s latest cafe is Nyonya Palazzo, located within the grounds of the Pinang Peranakan Mansion on Church Street, which just opened its doors last Saturday, 6 March.

And like all things Baba-Nyonya or Peranakan, it’s over-the-top ornate and colourful.

Nyonya Palazzo is part-cafe, part-boudoir, where modern takes on Nyonya savoury snacks and sweets are served in a dining room lined with beautifully embroidered Nyonya kebayas and handbags. We found out that Li Er, the popular Nyonya bakery-cafe in Pulau Tikus, is one of the partners in this new business venture. The place seemed very popular with the ladies-who-lunch crowd.

We ordered a selection of their savoury items on the menu - Nyonya snack foods rather than actual dishes one finds in a proper Nyonya restaurant.

1. Roti jala with chicken-and-potato curry and Nasi kunyit with chicken-and-potato curry - both the lacy crepes (“roti jala”) and steamed sticky rice (“nasi kunyit”) were good, though the accompanying chicken-and-potato curries were overly-salty.
   
   

2. Cold laksa spaghetti - this was very tasty, like the classic Nyonya cold noodle salad, “kerabu beehoon”, except that pasta instead of rice vermicelli was used here. The flavours were milder than traditional “kerabu beehoon” - lesser sambal belacan (chilis-fermented shrimp paste) used. Vietnamese coriander leaves and torch ginger (“bunga kantan”) were used very sparingly as well.
   

   

3. *Mee koo with kaya and butter - these were pretty good: very soft, fluffy bread, tinted pink traditionally as the original use of “mee koo” was as offerings to the gods. We liked the “kaya” egg custard spread here: rich with coconut milk, eggy and with a fragrant pandan aroma.
   

   

Nyonya Palazzo’s forte, with Li Er as its partner, has to be its selection of Nyonya kuehs (or sweet puddings).

4. Kueh lapis - steamed 9-layered rice pudding, scented with rose syrup.
   

   

5. Kueh Seri Muka - steamed glutinous rice, topped with egg custard.
   

   

6. Kueh Kacang Merah - steamed rice-flour pudding enriched with sweetened red beans.
   

   

7. Pulot Inti (left) and Pulot Tai Tai (right) - these were steamed glutinous rice topped with grated coconut-and-palm sugar, and with egg custard spread respectively.
   

   

8. Kueh Talam - steamed rice-flour pudding, topped with coconut creme custard.
   

   

The “kuehs” (steamed sweet puddings) are all “Li Er”-standard, i.e. among the best in George Town, although the prices here are high, about quadruple the price one would pay in Li Er’s casual cafe in Pulau Tikus, albeit portions here are slightly larger.

As with all new eating places in Penang, the place was packed to the gills over the last weekend when it first opened. Today (Monday) was quieter, as it’s also a working day.

Address
Nyonya Palazzo at the Pinang Peranakan Mansion
29 Church Street, 10200 Penang, Malaysia
Tel: +60 12-657 1068
Opening hours: 9am to 5pm daily, except Tue 9am to 5pm

[klyeoh (Peter)]

The folks from Nyonya patisserie, Li Er, who are behind Nyonya Palazzo, have just opened yet another cafe on 26 June 2025 - Dapor Rumah at the old American International Assurance building on the intersection of Bishop Street and Jalan Masjid Kapitan Kling (Pitt Street).

The bright, sunlit cafe exudes a retro 60s feel.

Our lunch here consisted of a selection of Penang-Nyonya plate lunches - obviously aiming for the lunch crowd in the financial district, and the courts of law nearby:

1. Nasi Lemak with Chicken Rendang - this has to be one of the best-tasting nasi lemak in town: rich with coconut milk, and fragrant with pandan & lemongrass. The chicken rendang (dry curry) was also redolent of fresh herbs and spices. The lunch plate came with the requisite, must-have nasi lemak garnishes: fresh-cut cucumber slices, crisp-fried anchovies (ikan bilis), groundnuts, and a piquant dried shrimp-chili sambal. It’s topped with a fried egg over-easy.
   

   

2. Penang Nyonya Beehoon - this is the cafe’s take on Penang kerabu beehoon - rice vermicelli tossed in a sambal belachan dressing, with chopped purple shallots and kaffir lime leaves. Toasted chili flakes provide the heat, whilst fresh-cut cucumbers provide the crunch. A fried egg was provided on the side.
   

   

3. Dapor Curry Laksa - this has just become my fave creamy-curry laksa in town. Its coconut milk-enriched gravy is shrimp-based, a departure from Penang’s better-known asam laksa which has fish-based gravy. It’s garnished with shrimps, hard-boiled egg, tofu puffs, julienned cucumbers and sliced purple onions. Best-tasting noodle dish I’d had in Penang in ages!
   I’ll come back here just for this.
   

   

4. Nyonya Pai Tee, filled with Jiu Hu Char - the classic crisp Nyonya pastry cups, but strangely filled with jiu hu char (jicama with dried cuttle fish) instead of just jicama & shrimps (bangkwang char). It’s okay but I won’t order this again here.
   

   

5. Char Koay Kak - stir-fried radish cake cubes with shrimps and eggs, flavored with dark and light soy sauces, and perhaps Chinese fish sauce. Beansprouts and chives provide the textural contrast.
   

   

6. Mee Koo with Kaya and Butter - steamed Chinese-style buns, served with egg jam and butter.
   

   

7. Selection of Nyonya kuehs - Li Er started off as a Nyonya kueh purveyor, so this has always been their forte. We ordered a selection of their Nyonya kuehs to try - always dependable.
   

   

One of the best local Nyonya cafes we’d come across in a long while.

Address
Dapor Rumah
88, Bishop Street, 10200 George Town, Penang, Malaysia
Tel: +6012-437 6178
Opening hours: 8am to 4pm daily, except Wednesdays (closed).

[klyeoh (Peter)]

Back to Dapor Rumah for lunch today. Can’t resist coming back as this place serves a 100% authentic-tasting Malacca/Singapore Nyonya curry laksa - proprietress-chef, Madam Tan Li Er, really got the balance of flavors of the spices and herbs accurate to a ‘t’.

The rice noodles are smothered with a piquant coconut milk-rich spicy curry, garnished with shrimps, hard-boiled egg, tofu puffs, cucumbers, red chili paste, and raw purple onions. A tangle of shredded Vietnamese coriander (called “laksa leaves” locally) finished off the delicious bowl of sheer perfection.

One of the other must-tries here is the Roti Jala with Chicken Curry - delicate net-like crepes accompanied by rich chicken-and-potato curry.