[Penang, Malaysia] Koay teow th'ng from Evergreen Cafe, Hutton Lane

In Penang, a Hokkien-majority place, but where its street food culture is dominated by the Teochews, 𝘬𝘰𝘒𝘺 𝘡𝘦𝘰𝘸 π˜΅π˜©β€™π˜―π˜¨ is one of the most popular street food item,. There are basically three major branches of 𝘬𝘰𝘒𝘺 𝘡𝘦𝘰𝘸 π˜΅π˜©β€™π˜―π˜¨, each with their own fans:

  • Duck broth version
  • Pork broth version
  • Chicken broth version

Quite a few koay teow th’ng hawkers choose to blend 2 or even all 3 of the meats for their broth. One of them is the well-known 𝘬𝘰𝘒𝘺 𝘡𝘦𝘰𝘸 π˜΅π˜©β€™π˜―π˜¨ stall at Evergreen Cafe Koay Teow Thng (ζ°ΈθŒ‚θŒΆεΊ—) on Hutton Lane.

Founded in the1960s by Hainanese chef, Tan Yin Seng, it’s been operating at this location on 11 Hutton Lane, 10050 George Town, since 2004. The present owner-chef is Tan Yin Seng’s son, Tan Eng Moh, whose 𝘬𝘰𝘒𝘺 𝘡𝘦𝘰𝘸 π˜΅π˜©β€™π˜―π˜¨ is one of the tastiest around.

His version of koay teow th’ng comes with strips of chicken meat, duck-meat, fish-balls, chicken gizzards, and minced pork balls. Finished off with a scattering of chopped scallions and a spoonful of golden-fried minced garlic.

Majority of Penangites are Hokkiens, Fujianese-Chinese who like their yellow-hued Hokkien noodles over the flat rice koay teow noodles of the Teochews. So, in a nod to their Hokkien customers, most koay teow th’ng places also offer the Hokkien noodles, or even a mix of the two types of noodles, like what one of my fellow diners ordered here:

Evergreen Cafe also offers the β€œdry” type of the koay teow dish - the one here has a very savory soy sauce-based dressing.

It comes with an accompanying bowl of pork-chicken soup replete with meats, chicken offal, pork meatballs, and bouncy Teochew-style fish-balls.

One of the best koay teow th’ng meals we’d had in Penang.

Address
Evergreen Koay Teow Th’ng (ζ°ΈθŒ‚θŒΆεΊ—)
11B, Hutton Lane, George Town, 10050 Penang, Malaysia
Tel: +6012-520 5031
Opening hours: 7am to 2pm daily, except Wed.

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