[Penang, Malaysia] Hunanese flavors at Xiang Xiang Hunan Cuisine, Gurney Plaza

Hunanese dinner this evening at 𝗫𝗶𝗮𝗻𝗴 𝗫𝗶𝗮𝗻𝗴 𝗛𝘂𝗻𝗮𝗻 𝗖𝘂𝗶𝘀𝗶𝗻𝗲, one of the busiest restaurants in Gurney Plaza, with a perpetual queue of customers waiting to get in. We actually got there at 5.30pm, just so we can avoid the dinner crush at this first-come-first-served, strictly-no-reservations eatery.

Hunan or Xiang cuisine, with its explosive, incendiary flavors, is categorised as one of China’s 8 definitive regional cuisines. Hunan’s most famous son was, of course, Communist China’s Great Helmsman, Chairman Mao himself. One wonders if the Hunanese’s explosive, fiery diet contributed to Mao Zedong’s harsh, ruthless personality.

Our dinner spread this evening:
Duo of chopped red and green peppers on a whole seabass. - one of the most recognisable Hunanese dishes: it blends ultra-spicy with sour flavors which cut into the fishiness of the dish. As with all seafood in Penang, the seabass is ultra-fresh - we virtually picked the bones clean.

Signature Hunan-style stir-fried pork with shredded capsicums. - one of Xiang Xiang’s house specials - it had all the hallmarks of Hunan cuisine: the use of simple ingredients is characteristic of the province’s harsh, arid landscape. These basic meat & vegetable components are then carefully cooked to draw out the natural sweetness and flavors. The capsicums were cut into broad ribbons, flash-fried to soften them, then stir-fried with slivers of pork and whole pips of garlic and a blend of secret condiments till everything melded together. Very basic, yet so very tasty.

Tangy young bamboo shoots stir-fry. - another straightforward and simple stir-fry, but which was absolutely delicious: finely-chopped young bamboo shoots, garlic, ginger, and fresh green & red chilies. Condiments consisted of light soy sauce, dark soy sauce, Shaoxing wine, sugar, and fermented black beans.

Pumpkin, ham and tofu stew. - this is the only non-spicy dish we had: a creamy, delicate, chowder-like stew with delicately cubed ham and tofu, combined with carrots, peas and corn kernels. I’d come back here for this.

Dessert: Mochi croquettes with molten brown sugar filling. - a rather modern send-up of an old Chinese dessert. Glutinous rice dumplings have been around for 2,000 years, with early mentions of it in Han Dynasty (206 B.C.E.–220 C.E.) writings. But deep-fried croquettes - a rather more recent creation (perhaps a couple of decades old), and done very well here.

We need to come back to try the other Hunanese staples that our tummies simply could not accommodate in a single meal. :joy:

Address
Xiang Xiang Hunan Cuisine
170-060 12/13/14, Gurney Plaza, Gurney Drive, 10250 George Town, Penang, Malaysia
Tel: +604-240 0643
Opening hours: 11am to 10pm daily

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That fish with chilis looks fantastic. Oh how I wish I could get something like that near me.

I’ve never been to the Hunan Province, but as an armchair traveler I am surprised by your description of a “harsh arid landscape.”

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Our local Chinatown has an Hunanese restaurant. We don’t go very often - Mrs H doesnt like the ambiance (it’s very downbeat). They have a dish “Chairman Mao’s red braised pork” which I’ve ordered every time I’ve been able to drag Mrs H in there. Delish - fatty pork, red pepper sauce, lots of garlic.

I had an astonishing Hunanese meal at a place in Germantown, MD. In typical U.S. fashion, The name was Peking Pavillion. It was like out of a dream. That place closed, and any attempt I’ve made to find another meal like that has resulted in an abysmal experience. I sought out examples in Seattle and Chicago, both failures. There just aren’t that many opportunities.

For the record, smoked/preserved meats and vegetables are a hallmark of the cuisine. And, of course, it is famous for it’s copious use of chilies. A casserole of preserved pork I had that one night had so much power to it I was blown away by the smokiness and intensity of flavors and heat. Another casserole I had, of tofu, was relatively mild and equally delicious.

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I remembered a time when Hunanese food was all the rage in the US. Back in 1992, I was a financial auditor with Singapore Airlines and flew to our New York office for a two-week assignment. We’d never heard of Hunanese food in Singapore at the time, where our Chinese restaurants are mainly Cantonese, with a sprinkling of Hokkien and Teochew ones - all Southern Chinese.

Imagine being in New York and coming across names like “House of Hunan”, “Hunan Inn”, “Hunan Gallery”, etc. in Chinatown. It was pretty much the same in Washington DC then.

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