I first came across 32 Mansion’s groundbreaking Crab Laksa Lemak at its now-defunct sister restaurant, 68 Kelawei, which was then the hottest independent restaurant in Penang back in 1999. I was visiting Penang from Singapore then, and a Penang aunt who brought me there was gushing about this house specialty which everyone can’t seem to get enough of. My first taste of the said laksa was a shock to my senses - Penangites like their food intensely-flavored and strongly herbal and pungent, a vehement nod to their southern Siamese heritage. Penang-style laksa is also fish-based, in contrast to Singapore-style laksa (which I’m more familiar with) which is dried prawn-based, and which gives the dish a very different taste profile.
32 Mansion occupies a sprawling 100-year-old sea-fronting manor which used to belong to a wealthy magnate who built his fortune on tin during Malaya’s gilded age.
Lunch is served at the bright, sun-lit beach-side conservatory, with nice views of the Penang Strait.
We started off with potage parmentier (potato-and-leek soup). Nothing fancy here, just executed very well.
One of 32 Mansion’s best-known offerings is its much-copied house signature mesclun salad with lemongrass vinaigrette.
For mains, I opted for its famous Crab Laksa Lemak - thick rice noodles, in a spicy, fish-based gravy, garnished with finely-chopped cilantro, cucumbers, Vietnamese basil, pink torch ginger flower, onions and fresh mint leaves.
A drizzle of extra-pungent fermented shrimp sauce (“hae koh”) really pepped things up here. Fresh calamansi lime was provided, to be squeezed into the whole concoction by the diner.
My lunch partner opted for the Oven-roasted Salmon with Cranberry Crust, served with Roasted Fennel and a medley of grilled vegetables, Lime Beurre Blanc sauce.
Desserts were:
Sticky Toffee Pudding a la mode.
Cendol with Gula Melaka Ice-cream.
It’s good to be back.
Address
32 Mansion
32, Jalan Sultan Ahmad Shah (Northam Road), 10050 George Town, Penang, Malaysia.
Tel: +604-262 2232
Opening hours: 12 noon to 11 pm daily
