Pawpaws, Asimina triloba

Pawpaw means different fruits, depending on where one is located. In the tropics, it’s another word for Papaya, Carica papaya. Here in the USA, it usually means the fruit of Asimina triloba. Asimina are the only winter-hardy members (here) of a mostly tropical family Annonaceae. This family includes such luscious fruits like Cherimoya, Guanabana, Soursop and various custard apples.

While I planted many seedlings I raised years ago, a friend traded me shiitake mushrooms I grew for some special pawpaws he developed.


As they soften, ripen, I’m using a thin knife to cut around the fruits, often poking through, to halve them. Sometimes, two knives make prying the soft halves apart easier and less messy.

The slippery seeds are then grabbed with some small pliers and removed. The small knife holds back any clumps of pulp. I’m saving seeds to plant, so they went into a small bowl. Scooping out the pulp from the skins is easily done with a spoon, like a soft avacado. So far, this has proven the fastest way to process even very soft fruits. Plus, it’s likely a safer method.

Pawpaws have toxins in the seeds and skin. Peeling from the outside or freezing-peeling is likely to expose more toxins from the skin, onto the fruit. The toxins usually just cause nausea, GI upset or vomiting. These symptoms also happen frequently if pawpaws are cooked or dehydrated. Even freeze drying does not appear safe, as I found missing information or negative reports from the few who have tried freeze drying. I personally know a couple folks who got sick from pawpaw fruit leather.

This toxicity is not unique to pawpaws. Apparently, other members of the family have similar issues. The fresh fruit and frozen fruit is fine, and has a long history of being eaten. The exact chemical changes with heat and drying are obscure. I’m freezing the processed pulp, in freezer bags, after squeezing out as much air as possible. Once frozen, the bags can be vacuum-sealed for longer storage life.

Describing their flavors is challenging. There are many different kinds and variability in the wild. I ate quite a few while selecting which seeds to grow out from a large, wild colony, and only the best flavored fruits had their seeds used. A meld of banana and pear, mango and banana, or custard ice cream have all been used to describe the taste. They are yummy!

Just don’t cook them or dehydrate them. At some point, once the toxic mechanisms are known, it should be easy to breed out these. Genetic “deletions” are not that hard to produce using conventional plant breeding techniques.

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I only once had the pleasure of trying them at a fabulous farm-to-table restaurant in PA where pawpaws abound as a palate cleanser / sorbet between courses. Your description is spot on.

Vivian Howard devoted an episode of “A Chef’s Life” (PBS cooking series) to paw-paws several years ago. She specialized in native foods of South Carolina. Having lived only in New York and New England, although somehow I knew the name of the fruit and that it is related to cherimoya and soursop, I was surprised to learn that paw-paws are not strictly tropical. If they taste anything like canned soursop or yellow jackfruit, I am baffled that they are not widely available in American supermarkets.

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The main reason fresh pawpaws are not widely available is that when they are firm-hard and unripe, they’re likely to make one ill. Those not familiar with the fruit might try them before they’re ripe. When they ripen, it’s very quick and they don’t last long. I’ve no idea if canning would make them risky to eat because of toxin formation. Ice cream, gelato or sorbet are good, stable products. The pulp is also delicious partly defrosted and eaten granular-frozen, by itself.

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I have a friend who grows some and I’ve been to a paw paw festival in Maryland. Lots of people buying and eating paw paws there. I’ve had them two other times as well. They are very delicious. Flavor like a cross between banana and cherimoya with a touch of mamey. They can be expensive… unless you know someone.

Soursop is the english name for guanabana. Cherimoya is a custard apple.

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They do not taste like soursop as they do not have a sour component and they are not nearly as sweet as sweetsop. The flavor is more subtle, more like banana or mamey.

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Canned soursop - the only way I have tasted it - is sweet or has added sugar. There is a it of underlying pucker, like a just-turned yellow Cavendish banana whose skin has not yet developed any brown.

A restaurant local to my US hometown has this on the menu, currently.

Paw paw cheesecake. The dish is garnished with fresh orange segments, mint, toasted pound cake crumbles and a coconut-citrus sauce.

#would

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My family is currently staying near Brattleboro, Vermont (about a few miles away in Guilford, at the Viking Villages). This afternoon we went into a nearby huge Brattleboro grocery store, Market 32, part of the Price Chopper chain I have never encountered before.

I was really surprised to see pawpaws, labeled as such, in this small town in mostly very rural southern Vermont near the Massachusetts and New Hampshire borders. We were in a hurry to get in and out so I did not investigate further. I wish I’d bought one!

This store is huge…bigger than any grocery store I’ve been in Greater Boston since I moved here in 1989. Only two that compared might have been the Wegman’s in Burlington (bigger than the Wegman’s in Medford, I think) and the Whole Foods in Sudbury. This store had many things I can’t find in my regular Market Basket/Whole Foods in Somerville/Cambridge, and the prices for most items, including wine, were below what we usually pay.

Vivian Howard now apparently is chef at two restaurants in South Carolina. However, her hometown Deep Run and her cookbook Deep Run Roots and her restaurant “Chef and the Farmer” and the PBS show “A Chef’s Life” were all based in North Carolina, around Kinston, which is about an hour and a half drive from Raleigh.

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Fresh soursop is one of the most amazing foods in the world. Once you extract the pulp, the flavor decays quickly. If you save it for the next day, it’s already not as good.

It is a messy fruit to eat. The fruit is pulpy and comes in sacs.

I can purchase frozen pulp at an hispanic grocery store. The flavor is good but not great. My favorite place for ice cream specializes in tropical flavors and serves a wonderful soursop ice cream. So it is possible to make good use of the frozen pulp.

As the name implies, it has an important sour component, but not so you’d need to add sugar to it.

You can’t import soursop into the US. The only fresh I’ve had in the states was at a grocery store in Davie, where some locals grow them. I believe June is the only time to get them there, and even then supplies are limited. It’s an expensive way to get them, and they were smaller and not quite as good. Other than that, I bought a fresh soursop at a farmers market in Jamaica. It was glorious. I’ve heard it is a natural tranquilizer, and in fact I slept soundly after eating a large one.

hq720

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Originally, as a botanist who has studied the family, Annonaceae, I wasn’t going to dive into the tropical members of the family; but, since the subject came up, I’ll try to clarify a few things.
First, the term “Custard Apple” can apply to any member of the family, but originally applied to Sweet Sop (Annona squamosa).


custardApple2
Source: Oxford Book of Food Plants. * Note: “Anona, Anonaceae” are typographical errors, missing the double “n”.

The family is huge, with over two thousand species and a dizzying array of hybrids. People casually apply common names, which mix up the species and hybrids, which is why Latin, Botanical names are the only way to know what one is talking about. I spent months in Peru, sampling a fantastic array of these fruits. Atemoya (A. cherimola x squamosa) were called “cherimoya”, along with other obvious hybrids. A. diversifolia, known as “Llama” was also called “cherimoya” by locals.

Soursop/Guanabana generally applies to A. muricata. Because of the more acidic flavor, there is less confusion. The fruit also has unusual rows of soft spines; most other members of the family have bumps, facets or other, often irregular, surfaces.

Unfortunately. while many Annonas will hybridize, making crosses with pawpaw (Asimina triloba x Annona) isn’t easy, or may not be productive.

I grew Annona cherimola, the true Cherimoya, in our greenhouse for years. Tree-ripened fruit were among the best fruits I’ve ever tasted, including those in Peru. Sadly, as the climate became hotter, the trees stopped fruiting, despite rigorous pollination. High heat made the pollen go sterile. That’s why Llama (A. diversifolia) is more common in hotter regions. We eventually cut the trees down after five years of non-production. :sob:

Fortunately, the pawpaws don’t seem as sensitive. Or, maybe their early season flowering time avoids hot weather. Here, when they flower, it’s often Morel mushroom season!

All these fruits oxidize and lose quality quickly. The best way to preserve the pulp is to remove the skin and seeds; then, immediately squeeze out as much air as possible, using a freezer bag and freeze the pulp. Once frozen, I vacuum-seal them in a second bag. Many members of the family have nauseating chemicals in the skin and/or seeds.

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How cool is that? A botanist-foodie? ( No offense intended :grin:)

None taken! Exploring plants around the world leads one to new flavors, textures and friends. It also helps to avoid eating something toxic or that has special precautions associated with the plant. In under an hour, one can discover new edibles while reading the right books. One all-time favorite is a mix of Horticulture and Botany.


This massive work is a little outdated, being written in the late 1800s– early 1900s, but it remains one of the most complete references to plants in general. It’s covering of food plants is impressive.

Faster, more complete and reliable than online sources! The main drawback is that each volume is heavy, literally. A cushion helps!

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This really hit home for me and was my experience in buying four soursop in Florida. Thanks so much for providing a system in order to preserve the flavor.

You’re welcome! You’re lucky to have access to soursops; they’re outstanding.

I’m guessing that one could also pack the pulp in wide-mouthed mason jars and use a spoon, butter knife to press down and remove as much air as possible. Then, pour some liquid oil in a thin layer, on top. Barely melted coconut oil would probably work; just make sure it’s not hot and barely melted. Freezing this way would also exclude most oxygen.