[Paris] Trip Report: Caractere de Cochon, Le Marché Des Enfants Rouges, Georges

First, a big merci to Parn for providing us with the details for planning this picnic! We had originally planned to visit Caractere de Cochon for a sandwich following a visit to the Musée Picasso. Parn suggested also stopping at Le Marché Des Enfants Rouges for more food and having a picnic at Square du Temple. Which we did. We then walked to Centre Pompidou, especially to see the Yves Saint Laurent exhibit, and finished with hot chocolate for me, wine for Jerry atop the Pompidou at Georges where we soaked in some beautiful views.

Caractere de Cochon

This place is literally the size of a closet. Its vêtements, however, are ham - both smoked and cooked, all types of sausages and some wine and cheese for good measure. The shopkeeper (who I am guessing is the owner) was a character like his cochons. He photobombed Jerry in a shot I was taking from across the street before we even stepped inside. With so many different types of ham to choose from, I asked if we could have two different types in one sandwich. That was a firm NO. We only wanted to split one sandwich (our wonderful trad dinner from the night before was making us less hungry) so I chose rosemary ham with Comté cheese on one half for Jerry, and mine without.

Rosemary Ham, Signboard, Ham Case, Hot Sausages, Sandwich Counter, Sandwich Ready


Wait a minute, let’s go back… what is that container of murky looking stuff on the left of the counter??

Didn’t notice that when we there. Moving on, we then stopped at Le Marché Des Enfants Rouges, a combination Farmers Market with fresh fruit and vegetables and nook of little food counters. Among the veggies, a box of fresh garlic was singing my song. The garlic in the supermarkets where I live is dreadful, rotten, old, not worth buying. But here was a glorious box of garlic freshness, I wanted to buy it all to bring back home. Sadly, Jerry would have no part of that, so I had to pass on it. I did however, get some gorgeous strawberries.


On our way to the Square du Temple park, Parn recommended picking up a pastry at Bontemps Patisserie. What a beautiful pastry display!!! They only had large size pastries in the case, so I asked the shopkeeper if they had small sized ones. I was re-directed to their shop next door. However, the shop next door only had small pastries for their inside restaurant. Nothing to go. So, unfortunately we had to pass. A decision I regret, but necessary under the circumstances (I will spare you the boring details).


It was a beautiful day and the lawn at Square du Temple was filled with happy sunworshippers. We enjoyed our sandwich (notice little tiny pigeon feet in the top of the sandwich photo, waiting for some crumbs), the farm-fresh strawberries, and a coke and chips picked up at a Franprix. That was more than satisfying. On our way out I noticed a soap and water dispenser. Didn’t need it though. I brought bottles of water and a wet facecloth in a ziploc bag which was more than sufficient.


Georges - Hot Chocolate and a View

It was a gorgeous sunny day, but quite warm and the walk from Square du Temple to the Centre Pompidou was long for me with my cane. But I made it. We enjoyed the Yves Saint Laurent fashions and inspirational art at the modern museum. We then decided to take a break and have a beverage atop the center at Georges. I had had my fill of water, so I opted to have a hot chocolate (I was still missing dessert from our picnic). Jerry had a glass of wine. The hot chocolate was ultra thick and saved by the accompanying pitcher of hot cream. Views of the Iron Lady and Sacré Coeur were spectacular.


It looks to me like a terrine that has not yet been taken out of the container in which it was baked. All that swirling fat and gelatinized meat juice collected on the top looks familiar to this terrine-maker. My only reservation on that diagnosis is that it does not seem to have been flattened by weights as I was taught to do upon removing the terrine from the oven. Perhaps a new approach?

I have really been enjoying your reports and photos, thanks very much for taking the time to report back! Seems like you had a wonderful trip!


Thanks Gretchen! Now that you mention it, that does look like a terrine. I was actually wondering if it was brains. I have some more restaurants to report on. On my way now to New York City to see a Broadway show that a friend of mine won a Tony for on Sunday. Busy!