I just got back from Paris as a sold diner. Here’s places that I really liked.
Les enfants du marché in the 3rd, Really , really tasty, Counter service, no reservations, very informal, yet one of the better meals I’ve had in ages.
Clown Bar in the 11th. I sat at the bar (w/a reservation) again, a great meal and interesting alcohol, I had a lovely Cidre from Brittany. (I’m a lover of French ciders).
I can confirm both Granite and Toutain take solo diners. Toutain told me to book for two and then email them. Granite booked it for me after emailing them.
Not a problem. If there is no option for 1 on the booking form, make a reservation for 2 and then scroll down to Special Requests section or equivalent and indicate that you will be solo. I for one wouldn’t even bother with that, make an online reservation for 2, and on arrival in Paris, have the hotel concierge/ front desk ring to clarify that you only need a table for 1.
Because of the curse of no-shows (a huge problem in Paris), a lot of upper-end restos now demand a pretty hefty credit card deposit. I am not sure if there will be any complications if you book for 2 and show up as one without prior notice.
No option for solos on the online reservation form for upscale restaurants is increasingly common throughout Europe. So, don’t blame Paris.
I’ll just note that earnest and joyless David Toutain is probably not the best choice for a solo diner. Food is very good but the restaurant “theatre” and enjoyment factor is usually 0. At least for us Parisians who demand a certain “joie” at restos.
Thanks to everyone for their responses and ideas, I will book for 2 and adjust.
In Australia we collect CC details to deal with no-shows, which I’m completely fine with as a concept.
Thanks also for the feedback, and reminder about DT - I ate there (as a couple) just before it got its first star, so wanted to experience the difference.
The food was incredible back then, but as a non French speaking (beyond the basics) female, the sommelier barely acknowledged me and almost took offence when I asked for the premium wine pairing. It remained a long running joke for the remainder of our relationship!
I remember being at DT’s at lunch years ago and the sommelier didn’t seem to acknowledge my existence until I was well into the third course, and I had to discreetly wave to him so that he did eventually. Doesn’t much matter since I hated the food. In the neighborhood, I’ll gladly go to Jaïs or Chez l’Ami Jean, but DT… never again.
I would not hesitate to eat solo at either Oktobre and Alliance. If you want a little adventure, you might take a look at Le Doyenné. It is a very special spot, an hour outside of Paris (train leaves you near, and the bus gets you a block away) where you can eat dinner, spend the night, and have breakfast in a lovingly restored farmhouse.
FWIW, I am not a fan of Clown Bar solo…the concept always appealed to me, but I was disappointed in the food and the service the several times I ate there.
Despite the prevalence these days of online bookings that don’t allow bookings for one person, I have always found Paris to be almost universally hospitable (and then some in a lot of cases) to me, often dining alone (and perhaps not besides the point, always American and female).