Paris meal report 2023 - week 1: [Les Parisiens], Nomico's, Coda, Kozo, Pouliche, Auberge Bressane, Pages

We were in Paris for almost 3 weeks this year, in May and June. We had slightly more meals at places we’d been before versus entirely new choices.

Our first night we returned to Les Parisiens, which was a very short walk from our first week apartment:

The next day I’d intended to try Mallory Gabsi for lunch, but mostly through my own error and partly through their poorly worded emails, I ended up not having a reservation despite “booking” months in advance [they had sent me an email en français congratulating me for reserving my place… on their waiting list :unamused:, despite the fact that I had not asked to be placed on a waiting list]. So I scrambled at the last minute and got a reservation at an old favorite nearby, Nomico’s.

The food was as always quite good, and the price at lunch (58E for 3 courses / 68E for 4) very fair, but… the room was mostly empty, and much darker than I’d remembered, and so for the first time ever there I found the vibe mostly a downer (perhaps I’m coming more around to @ParnParis’s view of dining than I’ve been willing to admit… :smirk:)



Desserts / mignardises:

Dinner at Coda in the 9th. I usually have very strong opinions, but this is the rare place where my opinion is essentially no opinion at all: right down the middle. Pricing was fair, food was good. I can neither heartily recommend nor tell someone to avoid, it’s a place where I’d willingly go back at the behest of anyone else, but where I’m unlikely to rush back unless that day’s carte looks particularly compelling. But I want to reiterate that I am not trying to “damn with faint praise” either.



For lunch the next day I had oysters at Huguette. As last year, I will bunch my oyster posts in a single place separately.

Dinner was at Kozo, another French-by-a-Japanese chef place. Excellent value at 55E for 5 courses for dinner. I have no hesitation recommending it to some who wanted a value dinner at this type of restaurant.

Pouliche for Sunday “brunch”. We really liked the room at midday, even more than when we had dinner there last year. Food was very good, and great value at 35E for entree-plat-dessert at lunch. Pouliche has still not risen to the level of must for me, but I’m likely to return, especially for lunch on a weekend.
Starters (we particularly enjoyed the asparagus dish):

Mains (accompanying sides not shown):


I went to Auberge Bressane because I really wanted to try the chicken with morels in a vin jaune cream sauce, a Parn recommendation. While I actually quite enjoyed my long walk through the 7th to get there, I found the vibe at the restaurant unenjoyable: sort of a kitchsy, tacky low-end Italian-American restaurant.
The chicken and sauce were indeed very tasty, although the skin was soggy/flabby and had clearly not been crisped at all. The cheese soufflé was ok.

I also made the mistake of ordering a glass of vin jaune to go with the chicken. I suppose it’s possible that the wine had gone bad; more likely, I now know that I very much dislike vin jaune…

IIRC Parn has indicated that they have a sister restaurant with a similar menu. If you confirm that they have the dish on the menu, I’d recommend trying that one instead of Auberge Bressane for someone wanting to try the poulet au vin jaune.

We went to Pages for the first time, for lunch. As I noted here, we very much enjoyed the room, and we thoroughly enjoyed the meal. But little about it was memorable or stood out. At 75E for lunch, it was not inexpensive, and we prefer other French-by-a-Japanese-chef places.

[Note, for ease of “consumption” (:grinning:) I actually spent quite a bit of time first combining horizontally pictures from each meal and then making the resulting pics smaller. Despite this, HO’s site rejected several of the resulting combo pics for “violating the 80MB limit” (despite each being under 7MB and most under 5 MB) and so for those I gave up and posted individual pictures, which make the post take up that many more vertical “column inches”.]


Perhaps it should be mentioned that poulet au vin jaune et aux morilles is never crisped. It is not roast chicken, not even a sauté, it is a stewed dish. The fowl may be browned briefly in butter in the early stage of the recipe, but then it is stewed with the wine with morels added at some point and cream at the end. So no crispy skin.


I was thinking the same. Even when I saute chicken and then add wine, the skin will always be soft. I actually did make chicken with morilles a while ago when they were on sale… Not with vin jaune though.

I’ve never been to Auberge Bressane, so never had this dish there. It’s good to see them using substantial and good cuts of meat. Does anyone know if this is Bresse chicken?

Being served in a place named “Auberge Bressane”, it should reasonably be Bresse chicken. However it might also be another high-quality chicken like coucou de Rennes or even yellow-skinned cou-nu from the Landes. Bresse chicken can be excellent but its quality mostly depends on how it was raised. And to tell the truth, Bresse poultry farmers have earned their reputation through their talent for marketing, eclipsing equally good, if not better, heirloom chickens from regions like Gournay chicken in Normandy or Barbezieux chicken in the Charentes.


Re Pages. There are so many Japanese-cheffed restaurants in Paris these days and many have a very similar décor/ setting/ feel, a very similar styles of cooking, and a very similar clientele that I am almost ready to declare too much of a good thing. Ten years ago, they were such an exciting addition to the restaurant scene that I almost become addicted to them. Now it’s deja-vu and many merge into a blurred memory. And for me, so it is with Pages.