Paris December 2023 Part Two: QuiPlume la Lune, Chocho, Vaisseau, Baillotte, Petrelle, Brasserie Dubillot

Qui Plume la Lune
Rainy downpour experience evaporated immediately upon entering the lovely Salle Vegetale salon. It was a quiet space with only one other couple, French speaking, at lunch. Service was surprisingly more formal than at Origines. We went with the 70€ lunch starting with the visually stunning amuse bouches, one coddled eggs, open in a shell and the other, mini rillette tartlets topped with viola served with a green Japanese leaf with lovage jell (seemed popular this season in Paris). Next was slowed cooked salsify (another popular on menus) with wild mushrooms and vegetable bouillon. The following dish was a somewhat disappointing potato soup with smoked haddock and lovage syrup at the base. Main dish was chicken from Lande, roasted Brussel sprouts, and puréed parsnips. Dessert was poached pears in rose water along with mushroom ice cream. Enjoyed the quality and execution of the dishes as well as the beauty of the presentations.

The Restaurant at Musee D’Orsay
This lunch was a really nice surprise. Went for the magnificent Van Gogh exhibit and had canceled reservations at Les Parisiens in order to remain more flexible time wise. Got to The Restaurant before opening and line was already forming to enter. The room is beautiful and we were fortunate to be seated by a window. A fun outgoing waiter and a happy diverse crowd enhanced the experience. I had the 31€ Van Gogh featured menu that began with a delicious parsnip veloute topped with black garlic and roasted buckwheat. Main dish was excellent duck confit along with Pontoise cabbage stampot mash and pear juice. With inexpensive daily specials, lovely setting and really good food, it proved to be a perfect choice.

Wasn’t able to make it to Chochoin March so really wanted to get there there this time given all the very positive HO reviews. Getting there early for dinner had its rewards as there was only one other table occupied and the bar counter, where I wanted to sit, was empty. In addition to being able to watch the prep and interact with the staff, it gave us a chance to chat with chef Thomas Chisholm who became our primary server and continued to converse with us all evening. Such an engaging person and it was nice to witness him calmly joking with the staff. Selected 4 a la carte items and loved 3 of them, not so much the plat au saucer ,a mushroom purée dip on a flat plate to be eaten with their homemade bread. The bread was great but the dip seemed to be lacking in something but not sure what that was. The roasted celeri root with lovage (again!) sabayon was a marvelous blend of flavors and the picanha de boeuf was equally satisfying. However the most memorable dish was the grilled small potatoes topped with smoked trout eggs, other roe, chopped chives and a lovely, I don’t remember exactly, light sauce. A terrific evening.

Going to lunch at Vaisseau reminded me of attending a hotly anticipated Broadway show while it was still in previews and anticipating seeing it again deeper in its run. The buzz was clear andI’m still not sure how we landed a lunch reservation when my waitlisted reservation didn’t clear. Regardless, was thrilled to be there. Our waiter was wonderful, explaining that the room is still a work in progress. The white tables were borrowed from a restauranteur friend because the wood ones were further delayed and they didn’t want to put off opening another month or so. He also indicated that,given they had only opened the previous week, we should come back again when things were more settled. I’m not a fan of offal and explained that. Chef Adrien Cachot came out to greet us, assure me, and joked around a bit (must admit that he and Chisholm became my chef crushes). The room seats about 20+, has a long communal table by the open kitchen in the back. Staff, chefs all in black garb, black stoneware, dark earth tones in interestingly shaped stoneware, unusual flatware similar to that at Géosmine which shares some similar esthetics. Had the 60€ blind tasting menu lunch starting with an amuse bouche quail egg with chives and vinegar to eat fast as hot bouillon poured over it cooks the egg quickly. The next course was brought out on tray with variety of dishes and plates. Instructions were given where to start and end. Some of the items: roasted clam in its shell, roasted inits own juice and miso, roasted Jerusalem artichokes with coffee sabayon, beet carpaccio, tiny lentils with crab shavings. and charred radicchio, cod, tapioca and lemon foam. After each presentation, you’re asked to guess ingredients. Who knew a meringue looking kiss was whipped pepper! Honestly, Intried to take notes and pictures but ended up with a mish mash of wrong guesses, corrections, missing pictures. Bottom line, I would absolutely run back next time I am in Paris to see what and how things are evolving. It was a truly exciting lunch.

Baillotte, again
Second week and could not resist a second lunch at Baillotte, this time on a Saturday with same pricing as during the week. Different crowd on a Saturday but warm and pleasant vibe remained. Started with pencil leek, half-cooked scallops with walnut crumble and leek mousse. My main was rockfish, the fish du jour, along with braised endive, orange sabayon. Dessert was Chou, hazelnut praline, clementine, black tea ice cream. As with the first time, all the food was delicious and a visual treat.

I had loved Petrelle on my March visit so planned a return for Sunday lunch. While it was still charming and welcoming, I just didn’t enjoy it as much this time, probably because of the menu. The scallop starter with yellow kiwi, kumquat and whipped chèvre was very good. However, I wasn’t crazy about either of the plats: cuttlefish with tomatoes, capers and olives or squash gnocchi in a cheese sauce topped with hazelnuts. Dessert was poached pear, artichoke ice cream and granola topping. All the food was very good, it’s a really sweet place, but next time I would double check the menu choices.

Brasserie Dubillot
The Grandma’s attic quiet charm of Petrelle could not have been more of a contrast from the lively retro ambiance of Dubillot. Again, this was a repeat from March. Waitress was delightful, food was inexpensive and good, location was convenient. Place was packed and again was vibrant and fun.


thanks for the above report (as usual)… but now you’ve just made my job for next trip planning header, since it looks like I’ve gotta add another place - Vaisseau - to my list, meaning something will have to come off, sigh… :smirk:

Hi Andy—-thanks and hope Geosmine and Baillotte are on your list!

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